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Old 11-16-2005, 08:10 AM
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Default Restaining and poly coat a fiberglass door???

I went to re-poly my front entry door this morning. I bought Goldspar interlux poly. I wanted to just barely knock off the previous coat of poly. Well.......The stain came off as well. Now what? Do I go to hardware store and try to match the same color stain as was on? I guess I will have to strip the entire door from all the stain? I bought a high quality brush. Would mineral spirits be a good clean up solvent? I could run to the store and talk to someone but I would rather get my info here first. I have never messed with stain or poly so any help would be helpful. This sucks...on vacation and I need to go fishing. Thanks...Brian.
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Old 11-16-2005, 09:37 AM
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Default Re: Restaining and poly coat a fiberglass door???

Poly as in one part Polyurethane varnish? On a fiberglass door?


I think you would do best to abandon the idea of a clear poly, since you have already damaged the very thin layer of color coat.

No stain, per se, will soak into fiberglass, so I don't think that will work to hide the bare spots, it will just wipe away.

you need to reestablish the film of color that was there before you removed it with sandpaper.

Find a good color tinted polyurethane varnish. Minwax is a well respected name, they have good quality stuff. I think they call it "poly shade", or something like that. They call it stain and varnish in one step. also, make sure you get the one with the UV inhibitors.

You may need to put coats only in the spots you sanded, and then blend it back into the door as a whole.

Ha Ha , door as a hole, I crack me up.
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Old 11-16-2005, 10:39 AM
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Default Re: Restaining and poly coat a fiberglass door???

Can you provide any pictures of the door, its finish and the damaged area? I like my friend above don't quite get this stain and poly on the fiberglass part. Are you sure you haven't gone through a gel coat layer?
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Old 11-16-2005, 11:00 AM
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Default Re: Restaining and poly coat a fiberglass door???

I'll post pics in the photo section. Inside and outside. The inside looks great obviously. The builder, house is 3 years old, said he stained then poly coated it. I have begun to remove the rest of the peeling poly and the thin layer of stain. What a job. The fiberglass door has a unique finish. It sands quite well. If I try too hard I can remove the woodgrain under the two coats. I had to lighten up on the grain sandpaper.
EDIT: Awww forget it. This POS comp. I'll try posting pics later. I think I will be alright.....So far. I just freaked a little this morning when I realized this was going to be an all day affair. Thanks for your help guys.
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Old 11-16-2005, 11:25 AM
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Default Re: Restaining and poly coat a fiberglass door???

Brian,

Since the house is only three years old, contact the builder and get all the right products to do the job back to orginal....truly that would be your best bet. Do you know if the builder is still in business?
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Old 11-16-2005, 11:53 AM
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Default Re: Restaining and poly coat a fiberglass door???

I too am struggling with the stain and poly on fiberglass part.

As Garrett stated, contact the builder and get a list of the products they used.

Was the door peeling to begin with - is this why you under took the project?

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Old 11-16-2005, 03:48 PM
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Default Re: Restaining and poly coat a fiberglass door???

Quote:
RI Builder - 11/16/2005 12:53 PM

I too am struggling with the stain and poly on fiberglass part.

As Garrett stated, contact the builder and get a list of the products they used.

Was the door peeling to begin with - is this why you under took the project?
I was hoping you would show up. Ok heres what I did. I stripped, sanded, the entire door-like 6 hours! The guy at Lowes said I could use my Poly with his Olympic gel stain. The gel type is made for fiberglass doors. I just put one coat of gel brushed and then ragged and it looks good. A bit light but good. I will reapply more stain until I get the darkness I want. I wanted to change color after thinking. The honey medium oak looking color had to go. I got a mahogany and I -crosses fingers- think it will be better in the long run with the color of my brick.
Garret I agree with your advice about going back to the builder for stock color, but I have reservations that I won't go into about that.
This whole staining thing is way easier than I thought. I just freaked out at first this morning. After all I a planner and my plans got out of whack. I'll post pics in a few days when I am done.
Yes the door was peeling...
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Old 11-16-2005, 04:01 PM
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Default Re: Restaining and poly coat a fiberglass door???

Okay, makes more sense now. One suggestion - use a very fine steel wool or very high grit sand paper, then wipe with a tack cloth in between each coat of stain - you want to open up the pores slightly so the stain absorbs and does not sit on top of the prior coat.

Peeling after 3 years does have me a bit worried - did you talk to your builder - he may have done this for you under warranty.
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Old 11-16-2005, 06:39 PM
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Default Re: Restaining and poly coat a fiberglass door???

Quote:
RI Builder - 11/16/2005 5:01 PM

use a very fine steel wool or very high grit sand paper,
Since your finish will just be sitting on top of the surface I would use "0000" steel wool or "000". I would think anything coarser would scratch through to the underlaying colour. As far as sand paper goes I would use a 320 Silicon Carbide sand paper as my first choice, my distant second choice would be an Aluminum Oxide sand paper in as fine a grip as it comes.

TIP:
1) - Don't fold your sand paper, rip it into quarters. When one folds a large sheet of sand paper into smaller sizes the folded edges are not as soft as the outer edges, therefore the harder folded edges tend to cut more then the softer edges of the paper.
2) - Remember you are NOT sanding this surface, you are only scratching the surface so your next layer has something to bit into. To adaquately scratch the surface use a thin spoung between your fingers and the sand paper. You DO NOT want to press hard at all. You DO NOT want to do a back and forth motion. One or two swipes should adaquately scratch the surface - let the grit of the sand paper do the job and not arm power.
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