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I just bought two new, different sizes, Dexter fillet knifes.Never have really known the correct way to sharpen a blade,I can get em sharp just dont know if i am doing this procedure correct.Should i use a wet stone or one of those rods,that you see chefs using in the restaurants.
When useing a steel "like the chefs" do this 5 on each side then 4 then 3 then 2 then 1 and your good to go ...
you take your time and touch it up ass needed!!!
The Chef's steel or the sharpener shown in the link are only made to touch up a properly sharpened blade, they do not set the bevel of the blade and eventually, as the knife gets progressively duller, they cease to have any effect at all. You either need to learn to use a stone or use some sort of grinder made just for knives (don't ever use a regular grinder on a knife.
Just as a personal note, last year I got tired of my 50+ year history of having the world's dullest knives. I have never been able to get a knife really sharp, close, but not shaving sharp every time. So I broke down and bought a machine that never fails. This machine actually removes metal but so little that it won't wear out your knife if used properly. It is made by a company called Tormek and its really made for sharpening wood chisels and other tools of that sort. I can bring a knife to shaving sharpness within about 3 minutes with it. They are expensive, but you should see how sharp every knife, chisel, ax, machete, and pair of sisors around our house is now days.
Thanks for the replies.Think Im gonna try the one offered at True value,store is down the road from the house.Plus i like to support these guys when i can,still in business after the take over from Home Depot and Lowes in every town,not that im anti Lowes or HD, just got to support the little guys,plus you get great one on one service when needed.
If you look at a knife edge under a microscope, it's incredibly serrated, with tiny steel "fingers" that get bent and flattened.
A steel, or leather strop aligns 'em back.
There are people that know ALL about this kinda sh*t, and knives, and I'll say right now I'm not one of them, but I've come up with the following system:
Home knives (Wusthof): medium stone -> 'crock stix' (ceramic rods) -> steel as needed. Gets them sharp enough, though not perfect since bevels are uneven.
Fishing knives: Rapala fillet knives. I have about 3: one of those Home Depot small sharpeners, where you pull the blade through, and it eats metal like mad. Who cares. Wipe with a towel, and keep cutting. I'd try to post a link, but HD's website's search facility was written by someone who hated life.
I used to butcher until a job accident caused me to move on.
Steels:
Two kinds of steels: a good butchers steel will cost you about 200 bucks. The kind that you see for 20-30 bucks are nothing more than a file - JUNK! If you drag your finger nail over the profile of the steel and you can basically count the ridges it is a file - and a cheap file at that.
A butchers steel is magical, only if you know how to use it.......I know it looks so simple to use and master, but to master it takes months and months of using it daily. I would comfortably say that is takes the average person 3 to 4 months of using a steel 500-600 times a day at 5 days a week to learn how to get the most out of a steel. I don't what it is about it, but once you've learnt it you never seem to lose it???????? It is almost like magic.
Understand that a steel can not put an edge on a knife, it can not change the profile of the edge, it can only maintain the edge to a point. And to a very limited degree, resurrect an edge to a limited capacity.
IMO, F. Dickerson steels out of Germany are the best steels the world has to offer. The only thing better than their steels ......... is a heavily used antique F. Dickerson steel (one that is a smooth as glass and looks like it has been chromed) - they are a true delight to use.
Stones:
- Forget about the 2 in 1 stones - they are junk! Although a good quality 400 grit stone will make short order of a kicked edge. 800 grit stones are a general purpose grit - great of axes and lawnmower blades. Basically you want a good quality 1200-1600 grit stone to maintain a knife's edge. You can use this stone for the removal of a kick, but it is very time consuming. A 2000 grit stone is getting on the finer side of things - this stone is really an introduction to finishing grit stones. I know and own stones all the way up to 12,000 grit.
- Wet or oil stones is really a personal choice at a novice level. Although it is said that oil stones will produce a finer edge. Either way, ALWAYS use a medium to flush the stone's face when sharpening an edge - a stone's face should NEVER become glazed; reface the stone if it does.
- Synthetic or organic stones??? Personally I do not like the Green, Red or Blue synthetic Diamond stones (DON'T let anyone tell you that they will remain true flat! They are not even true flat out of the box!) ALL stones will form depressions. But these wear depressions are a reflection of the users style or technic and will basically never compromise the final out come provided that the particular stone is used for sharpening that one type of implement. DO NOT mix implement on a specific stone, have designated stones for the different implement.
- An industry standard size of stone is 8"x2"x1" thick. It is a very manageable size of stone. A novice should ALWAYS mount the stone in a stationary position. The length of 8" is very important in maintaining a fluid motion - us the full length of the stone.
- Novices should use a beveled support under the implement to maintain a constant angle. After time your body will learn how to feel the difference between, example: 24 and 25 degrees. I have two knives set with angles of 21 degrees, whereas on the other end of the scale I have my general purpose hunting knife with a 35 degrees angle.
IMO, Arkansas quarried stones are the best. Although I do like a small pocket size ceramic stone for fishing or hunting outings.
Knifes:
Other than ceramic cutting tools, steel is used. Some blends lend themselves better to a given task better than others. A metal first and foremost has to be able to take an edge, then hold it. Some blends are to brittle for cutting board use. Some knifes have to be flexible whereas others stiff. Some blends are to hard to benefit from a quality butchers steel. Some very good blends will even easily rust. Most expensive is not always the best knife for the dollar!
Sharpening: (This basically applies to all cutters)
- Start by lightly dragging the knife's edge down the end of your finger nail. This will tell you what sort of condition the knife's edge is in; you will be able to feel every little kick there is in the blade. By starting with this simple test you will be able to determine whether you start off with a 400 or a 1200 grit stone.
- It is paramount that a CONSTANT and REPEATABLE angle be maintained when sharpening anything. Pressure is something that you will need to take into consideration when sharpening as well.
The easiest method for the novice is to use some sort of support device for the knife. This not only allows for the uniformity of a grind along the entire length of the blade, but also allows for the other side of the blade to have a matching angle - repeatability.
- Whatever side you start on (lets say side A), continue grinding that edge until you feel a bur on the opposite side of the blade. This burred edge MUST be felt along the entire length of the blade; if it is not, continue to grind. This means that you have successfully ground a new face on side A of the blade.
* Now turn the knife over (side B) and repeat. Once again this bur MUST be felt along the entire length of the blade. Now you know that you have two NEW grinds on the knife. (For the purpose of explanation, this is one set)
*** Each time from this point forward that you grind side A and B (one set) you will want to be using a lighter hand (less pressure) for each set.
* Flip the blade back over to side A and grind to remove the bur. You will continue to grind until you have put another lighter/finer bur onto side B.
* Flip knife over to side B and grind until there is a complete fine bur on side A.
* Flip to side A and grind just to remove the bur.
* Flip back and forth from side B to side A with a reduction of passes on each side and with less hand.
*** Keep in mind at this stage of sharpening that every time you drag the edge of the knife away from the stone that you are causing a very very small bur on the other side of the edge.
- My last 20 or so passes of the knife over the stone will always be gently feeding the knife's edge into the stone. One pass on side A into the stone, one pass on side B; back and forth from side A to side B. Once again with less hand each time.
- Now very lightly do the finger nail test - feel the difference.
- Now take a piece of hard wood (I like maple) and lightly but firmly drag the blade from the heel to the tip down the end grain of the wood. This not only de-burs the metal even more but it also hones the metal much the same way a butchers steel does.
*** Now for the ultimate edge: Go to a 2,000 > 4,000 > 8,000 > 12,000 grit stones, various honing compounds and polishing. Then hold the knife's blade in boiling water for a few minutes, then do your magic with the steel. Now very carefully wrap up your knife and send it off to be cryoed.
Knife Shapening ? 
