jfkibler

I have been fiddling around with the brakes to a dual axle boatmaster trailer since I bought it a couple months ago. It began with the trailer partially locking up in reverse going up a small incline even though the accuator was disengaged with a pin. I didn't have a 5 pin adapter for the truck yet. When I did get the 5 pin adapter last week, the accuator still was engaging in reverse, so I assumed bad solenoid. I understand from reading, Champion Trailer's web site that a bleeding solenoid would be best for backing up hills. Does that sound right? But now to the really big problem, I tried to pull the trailer out today and the calipers are partially locked up going FORWARD with several loud squeels!! HELP!!!!

bamaboy473

One or both are happening:
1. The brakes have rusted onto the discs. The FIX is: remove the bolts that hold the calipers onto the discs, knock off the offending calipers, and plug the brake lines until you get new calipers or free up the old ones.
2. The surge function isn't hearing your 5-pin tell it to not engage because you're in Reverse. Get a 6" C-clamp and clamp the tongue to prevent the surge function from compressing.

Both of these fixes are going to allow you to move freely and back up an incline. The tradeoff is that you won't have brakes for the trailer. If your towing vehicles is robust and not so many hills to go down, maybe that will not be a concern of yours.

If you do a lot of road trailering and go up/down hills a lot, the the New style calipers are much more rust-resistant than the old style. Kodiac is a brand that is very popular for good brakes.

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Rick
Alabama's Gulf Coast
Chaparral 240 Signature (Sold)

Libra

Time for a trip to see Drew on Gordon Rd. in Wilm.,,, if you're nearby.

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2005 McKee 23 TE/FS with 200 Zukes
50 Ton Masters with Towing Endorsement.


http://www.thehulltruth.com/mckee-craft-boats-36/

jfkibler

Well, when I jacked up the trailer sides, the wheels will partially turn but are rubbing throughout the cycle in some places more than others, and I had to put a little muscle into making on side turn, . The calipers and discs appear to be in good condition with no rust or corrosion although I could only look at them from underneath as the lug nuts were corroded or were on so tight - even with my full body weight they wouldn't budge. I have heard that calipers do make a slight constant contact with the disc. Is that true? Regarding the C-clamp technique, great idea, but I had just slid the open ends of both my safety chains into the open accuator to prevent it's forward movement and even this wouldn't fully disengage the brakes in reverse, I could feel my truck strain backing up the driveway.
My neighbor, like you suggested, said that I probaby didn't even need the breaks as the boat is only a 20' Grady White cuddy with single 150HP but the trailer is for a 24 foot boat. Agree? If I were to remove the break function, what would be the easiest method in this hydraulic system?
THANKS

jfkibler

Libra - Who is Drew? I live in Southport, and could get the boat to Wilmington --- If I can disengage the breaks for the trip.

offshore3144

To relief hydraulic pressure just disconnect the break line behind the reverse solenoid . Back up and pull forward to see if the brakes will unlock. You can tap the brake pads with a screw driver and hammer to try and free them. sounds like your actuator might be the problem. Mark

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