Iya

Weather so bad and I only managed to change the props to all 20". Now the extended Luhrs29 can hit 40 knots in flat water with about 1,200 lbs of people & fuel. Have not really done much fuel flow data, I was more interested in doing the fuel and electrical system.

I also realized that the original dashboard did not allow me to do full throttle because of the angle built in the dashboard and my throttle stick kissed it before the last 5mm of throttle movement. Looks like I have to tilt the throttle stick body rearwards by 15 degrees or so.

For those of you who likes working on your own, find the photos for DIY entertainment :

This is how the hatches on the new hull ( extended ) looks like when opened. The sealing and groove is very good, I hardly get any water coming in even in big rain or when I get splashed by big waves. I will put a thin gasketing soon in order to improve it even better.

Below this part of the new hull is the fuel filtration system and main battery inter connect junction box. I do not like putting batteries here because fuel and electricity in proximity do not go well for safety. I am also balancing the stern, now with heavy 3 engines. The batteries are located in the old inboard engine room compartment which is quite forward.

Iya

These are the photos of the fuel filters. I used to have twin FG900 Racors per engine to feed the old diesels, now I use these old filter housing to feed the outboards. If I am not wrong since diesel filters uses see thru yellow plastic bowl on the Racor, US COast Guard requires the bowl to be mettalic if used on gas engines. I don't know if this still apllies in the US but I am not in the US and to me I need that see-thru plastic. Even the original primary ( low pressure ) Suzuki filters in the outboard itself are see thru translucent plastic, so I am not so concerned. However, I removed the water sensor probe originally attached to the filter bowl, can't use this for gasoline.

I am using a 30 micron and 10 micron elements. This is also good for the engine because FG900 elements fuel flow ratings are above the requirement even for 2 of 250 HP Suzuki runned together. I will not have fuel starvation. The hoses from the tank to the fuel filters are as big as the Racor allows and at the output it gets to be downsized for Suzuki fuel inlet size hose.

Flo-Scan reccomends that a filter is to be installed upstream its sender/sensors but not be be so fine like 10 micron because the sensor will read wrong due to too fine a filtration. This dual-in-series Racor FG900 lay out on my boat serves the FloScan requirement and thus I placed the sensors between the 30 and 10 micron filters.

In my country dirty fuel is all too common and most worry is water in fuel. The marina fuel station is old and the underground tank is low and at very high tide, brackish water had been known to enter the underground tank. I had lots of garbage in my fuel tanks coming from that station but I had no choice because it is the only fuel station where a boat can come side by side. Unless I have a big pick up to buy fuel in drums from automotive fuel station....I have no choice. By law I can not transport the low octane gasoline by drums because it is still subsidized a bit by the government and they wanted to prevent illegal export. At US$0.45 perliter or US$1.70 a gallon, a lot of our fuel been illegaly exported to neighbouring countries where fuel price is based on international prices. Indeed an unfriendly boating atmosphere.

I have leant by hard that I will need at least 4 times ( or more ) the filtration I need if I want the boat to do well, especially in bad weather where all the dirt & slime will clog the fuel filters . Our diesel sucks big time, our gasoline sucks too but inherently by its chemical composition, it doesn't grow bacteria. The Racor FG900 see thru bowl is also the biggest water trap bowl there is from Racor. With 4 of FG900 installed, I can trap at least close to 4 liters of water before it hurts my engine.

Since I have 4 fuel tanks. 2 on port ( one wing and one mid ) and 2 on stb ( one wing and one mid ), both port and STB wing and mid tanks mirror each other in capacity. Each wing tanks can carry +- 52 gallons and each mid tanks can carry +-79 gallons.
I have a capacity of 262 gallons combined. However, I will not use the last 7 gallons per tank ( 28 GL total ) because in bad weather because fuel sloshing around when tank is at 7 gallons left will introduce air bubbles to the engines. My fuel tank suction is from above and at the most rearwards part of the tank. I put abot 1/2" of gap on the suction pipe towards the tank bottom. I dare not make a supply pipe running from tank bottom, if ever there is a leak, my boat will suffer. My fuel tanks are made from fiberglass. I dare not even make parallel connection for the tanks where I need to make it at the bottom of each tank.
I fear gasoline flamemability ( spelling ?? ) a great deal......

Since the Racor FG900 has lots of fuel flow capability, each of the 10 micron output gets connected with double outlet to feed either port or STB engine and feeding the mid engine. So the mid engine gets 1/2 flow from each port and STB fuel filters system. This way I can maintain the twin engine Flo-Scan reading of the N.Mile Per Liter and overall fuel used. However, I can not use the digital RPM function to read mid engine and I can not accurately monitor fuel flow of the port or STB engine since the mid engine sucks a bit of fuel from both port and STB fuel system. In the end, if the FloScan can tell me my Liter per Nautical Mile and overall fuel used, I am already satisfied enough because I can still find my sweet RPM spot and maximize my range.

Iya

Under both Port and STB Racors, I made a fuel spill catch tray from fiberglass. Each can hold in excess of 1 gallon spilled fuel safely.
I am really scared of gasoline.

pooldoo73

I don't think you have to worry about the plastic bowls on the Racors. I believe the metal bowls are only a requirement for applicaitions where the Racor would be in the same area as a gas engine. Like in an i/o or inboard situation with gas engines.

__________________

Iya

Thank You 73. I think that makes sense on the plastic bowl thing. Thanks again. I feel better already.


Photos below are the mid hatch on the new extended hull. Since my batteries are located about 4 meters forward of the transom and inside the ex-diesel engine room, my battery cables need to be extended longer. I had to custom made my own bus bar because I do not have inventory of such.

Inside this hatch also I placed an auto halon fire extinguisher. If ever there is a fire from leaking fuel filters or whatever bad luck there may be, the auto discharging Halon will cope with that. There is an Aqua Signal gasoline fume sensor which I operate 24hrs a day in this area of bilge too. Its life span will be about 6-12 months when runned 24 hrs a day. US$120 dollars maximum a year for fume sensors replacement is still a cheap insurance. I have another twin sensor fume detectors with a 5 minutes interval auto reading to be placed under cockpit where fuel tanks are and in battery storage area ( ex engine room ) where the fuel fill hose pass thru this place. The deck fuel fill is by the side of the ex-engine room exterior. I can not emphasize enough on my safety concern for fire prevention. I have on stand by for this boat a 1 of 5 liter Halon potable halon and 2 of 1.5 liter of portable halon on top of the auto halon.

The marina sucks with no fire fighting equipment. I have seen a few boats on fire and its scares me. My idea is to have enough fire fighting equipment to delay fires caused by neigbouring boat, so that I can run off with my boat if I can't kill that fire.


The juction box for Port and STB also houses the Blue Sea System 500A shunt. The mid engine does not get a shunt.
This juction box is IP55 rated for waterproofness but unfortunately the big cables coming out below it can not make it as waterproof as the intended design but water splash from top or side will not make water enter the junction box. At least the inter connection does not look ugly because it is inside a box. Short circuit protection is also minimized.

I run only a single big negative starter cable to the batteries, save cables & weight because I do not start engines alltogether. The parallel connections of all negative starter cables are adter the shunt, thus I can read alternator output of Port and STB engines independently.

This part of the bilge gets a Rule 2000 bilge pump with auto float witch and manual over ride and a high water alarm using a rule float switch. More on the bilge pumping system and high water alarm system later.

I am not really finished in this area. There are still a few electrical connection to be made. Plans keep changing every time...

Afishinado

Now that is a D.I.Y. of major proportions! Did you extend the hull yourself? Any photos of the whole boat?

__________________
Mike


Livin the dream...

Iya

Hello AFish,

This report is a follow up of the actual conversion, take a look at the beggining of the project :
http://www.thehulltruth.com/forums/t...=78987&start=1

enjoy..............

Iya

Marine electrical work is a problem for me here in my country to source proper marina hardware. As the projects evolve, I am sometime out of parts I need and shipping from USA will cost like US$50 by Fed-Ex for a simple battery switch, not including the battery switch itself. There are marine supplier here but many parts I want are not available, so I must import or custom made where possible.

My strong point is electrical works and I picked up good stuff from many makes of yachts, American and European. Each brand of yacht have their own mind set towards electrical works and monitoring in a yacht.

For this boat, I managed to get 3 of small AGM batteries from Lifeline, which I initially bought a year ago for my cars and friend's cars. Now that I need the AGM for testing purpose, I place them on this boat. Unfortunately this is starting battery model and not deep cycle application but nevertheless I want to see how long it can survive as domestic batteries. The other brand I use is a Korean import, lead acid type, semi-sealed with gas capture like the Delco voyager. I can buy Delco Voyager and Optima (gel) batteries locally but I do not like these two brands.

Since the local available battery all use automotive post/terminal and are designed for cars, I had no choice but to source a very good battery post connector. I know I will be using lots of big cable and the normal battery pots connector will not be able to handle such load. I went to audio shop to look at high end battery post connector and found one to my liking, the design fits my purpose. Unfortunately they stop importing this model.

So I had no choice but to indent and I waited like 6 months........it never came. I got so frustrated and decided to custom made it. I then souced for a very good copper alloy block thru Singapore. Those copper available locally or made locally are garbage not made from virgin ingots and too much impurities. This is a one time investment and this battery post will last longer than the boat, so I made it from a grade 2 copper alloy at US$12.5 a pound landed price. The other grade 1 was at US$25 per pound, too expensive. I don't know if I paid too much but my friend's factory uses the same high grade copper for certain parts of their manufacturing when using certain machine. So my battery post cost more than the local batteries.....

I went to his factory and tell him that I need the favor to custom made a batttery post because no machine shop wants to entertain my order of only for so little parts. I also like the fact that he has a wire-cut machine with great precision. What are friends for. So it took two months to make the battery post connector because his factory is so busy...and it is FREE OF CHARGE .... ha ha ha....

I also used the same grade 2 copper for the bus bar. Without the bus bar, my domestic battery shunt will not work properly. The supplied bolts can not handle so much cables I had in mind. The shiny coating is a local tin coating.

Iya

Here are the split charging system on the boat. Two of them.

The Blue color unit is a 2 input with 3 output and rated at 150 amps each input. This is not a diode type splitter, this is a high tech British made low loss splitter using advance semiconductor, also not a relay sytem like battery combiner. This unit at 150 amps is an overkill but this is the only unit I had left from my previous project on a bigger yacht. It cost me US$500+ landed.

The black colour unit ready for wiring is of the same brand but ultra low voltage loss. More expensive per amperage capacity. This is a 60 amps but with only 1 input and 2 output. The Suzuki 250HP alternator output is at about 55amps. This unit cost me
US$ 180. This unit is the standard chrage splitter of Princess Yachts ( Viking Sport Cruiser in the US )


My wiring is as such with the 2 inputs 3 outputs Charge Splitter ( Blue Unit ) :

Port engine running, means it charges port engine bat bank, stb engine bat bank and domestic bat bank all together but individually isolated. The same goes when STB engine is running.


My future wiring is as such with the 1 inputs 2 outputs Charge Splitter ( Black Unit ) :

Mid engine running, means t will charge mid engine battery bank and domestic battery bank.


The priority of charging will always go to the Domestic Battery Bank because almost all loads are connected to it, except for engine's own need, trims and hydraulic transom jack. In my case all three engines will have allocation to charge Domestic Bat bank.

I have tried battery combiner, multiple battery switches and regular split charging diodes type. None prove as good as this British made high tech split charger, no worry, no hassle and really good charging performance all the time.

Take a look at the first photo, on the left of the blue unit split charger is a Blue Sea relay/solenoid which is rated at 600 amps intermittent. I use that as a auto battery parallel connection between port and STB. Everytime I crank either port or STB engine, it connects port battery to starboard battery. I also has a manual switch to run this parallel solenoid/relay.

I use 4 battery switches and their function is as follows :

Port Battery switch, ON/OFF only
STB Battery switch, ON/OFF only
Mid Battery switch. Bat 1 position is Mid bat bank. Bat 2 position is Domestic Bat Bank.
Domestic battery switch. Bat 1 position is Domestic bat bank. Bat 2 position is Port bat bank.

I wired all all 4 bat switches this way is for emergency, where in any case I need to parallel any weak battery, I can parallel all 4 battery banks together. If I have say a dead battery bank on port or STB and do not want it to spoil any other battery bank, all I need is to remove 2 bolts and add a plastic shim between the battery post connector to the bus bar on the negative side, this way this dead battery is of no service anymore but need not be physically removed until later convenience. If the dead battery is either the mid or domestic, all I need is to play with the battery switch setting.

The 2 relays are +12V feed for the split charger internal operations and fused at battery box. The manufacturer calls for 10 amps fuse. I do not like to tap power from outboard wiring harness which is so small and lots of voltage loss. The operation of these relays are each protected by 0.5amps glass fuse each at ignition source of engine wiring harness. With so much +12V signal I need from each engine's ignition to provide activation or voltage supply, I rather operate via relays to connect all loads exceeding 1 amp direct to battery except for very few equipment. Even the internal lighting of the instruments/gauges gets its source from domestic bat bank and no more from the wiring harness.

Iya

A good electrical system is useless unless you can monitor them in real time and all the time.
Marine environenment kills alot of electrical hardware fast thru bad contacts, high resistance and so on.
This boat is now 10 years old and when I tested each and every MCB for its internal resistance, I was suprised to find many, especially those infrequently used, has resistance higher than 2 ohms. At least 1 MCB internal resitance could not be brought back to live, and I had to discard that one. This is bad, really bad. A dose of CRC contact cleaner and another CRC electrical lubricant brought down the value to 0.2 ohms. My Fluke usually reads 0.2 ohms as lowest...yes I drop this baby a lot... .

I had a few Blue Sea voltmeters and ampmeters from a friend's boat inventory, unused. So I install it on my boat.
I like the Blue Sea System units, I love its accuracy, function, great design but unfortunatley they are not very daylight viewing capable. Hard to see in bright daylight unless you really focus hard.

The second photo below is the array of the electrical monitoring meters on overhead electronic box.

Top is Domestic Bat Bank Voltmeter
Middle one is Amp meter for Port/Domestic/ Starboard .................battery banks
Bottom is Volmeter for Port/Mid/STB/ Spare ..................battery banks


I use double pole double throw ( DPDT ) switches for the amperage selector, they are also from Blue Sea. If I use localy source switches, usually from Taiwan or China, the contacts are brass or copper but the terminals are zinc plated steel, I hate that.
Since amperage for the DC shunt need both connections to be cut off and turned on ( double pole ), I can't use the home type amperage selector switch, the ones available here are all single pole....perhaps I did not try hard enough to find them. Never mind, I like the look of the toggle switch better anwyay.

The volmeter reading selector comes from an old Professional Mariner digital voltmeter original to this boat. That unit sucks and was out of action twice in less than a year, so I took the selector switch.

I purposely dedicate one Voltmeter for domestic battery bank because this can be turned on manualy regardless of battery switch position. It is fused with 5amps ATOC fuse at the domestic battery box with its own dedicated wiring and 0.5amps at the dashboard glass fuse housing. When I read voltage I want to read battery voltage not voltage at some bus bar on main panel where aload is already applied. Since all charging goes direct battery either from alternator source or bat charger, I need to read where the charging is at.

The Ampmeter also turns on with the Domestic Voltmeter. I need to monitor "what" consume how much. This 2 meters itself consumes less than 0.1 amps combined.

All lights, including engine gauges lighting....all pumps....all electronics....all bilge pumps and Sea Star power steering are powered from domestic bat bank. A minus sign on this ampmeter at Domestic selector setting, indicates amperage/current consumption if battery charger or engines not running. If battery charger or engine is running and I still get a minus sign, that means I am consuming more than what my battery charger/alternator is pumping out and thus I am taking the excess from Domestic bat bank. It is good to know that even at 55 amps rated, the Suzuki alternator ( each engine ) only pumps a maximum of about 15 amps at idle ( +-700 rpm ). At 3,000 RPM or more, it then can pump its maximum juice.

So this ampmeter can tell me potential problem and charging performance of my battery charger, port alternator, STB alternator and mid engine alternator ( when the second split charger system get wired ). It also can tell if my two split chargers are operating normally.

The bottom Voltmeter only turns itself ON when ignition of either engines get turned on.
The Blue Sea digital voltmeter has two ( + ) input. One is voltmeter activation, the other is for sensing.
Here I parallel all 3 engines +12V ignition signal using 5A diodes and 0.5amps fuse upstream the diode to activate the Volmeter.
I don't like having to turn on a specific engine's ignition just to read the voltage. Its a lot more work but I like the convenience. The sense (+) voltmeter is all direct wiring feed from battery box with 5 amps ATOC fuse in bat box and 0.5 amps glass fuse for sense feed. Again I do not want to read voltage of battery banks from engine wiring harness, totally useless as the voltage always read about 0.5 volts less than actual due to loss/use.

0.5 volts difference can mean a poor performing alternator unit.
I had a case once where a 200 amps diesel engine alternator ( for domestic bat bank ) did not completely failed but could only pumped out 25 volts instead of 28 volts and only 55 amps. It burdened the battery charger so much because battery charger was pumping 27.5 designed volts. The yacht use at least 160 amps when running.....120 amps blowers, lights and so on. The battery charger was pumping so much amperage/power and it was rated at 180 amps ( actually 3 x 60 amps modules in series ). One battery charger module out of the 3 got overheated and it wasn't long that the second and third module went down due to overheat safety feature. So all three modules went down. In less than 3-4 hours the 12 units of domestic battery bank went banana. This yacht has all the goodies electrical monitoring gauges and I could trouble shoot in real time while boat is still running. At least I need not use a clamp ampmeter while the alternator is spinning. In that 7 hours trip, I had to jugle between the other 55amps alternator feeding the starting batttey bank via the parallel switch, turning off the engine room 120amps blowers time to time and waiting for the battery charger to cool down and juice it out again. My boss was wondering what the h*ll I was doing pressing buttons all the time at the lower helm. This Italian yacht has the best electrical monitoring system of all the yachts I been on but failed to be provided with two powerful alternators and split charging units. Lucky I was on board that yacht because we were having a VIP on board and my boss always wants me near by at such time. Without sufficient 24Vdc supply this yacht can't even pump its toilet and the engine room will be burned down because it can't do without the massive engine room blowers. I hate this yachts over reliance on DC supplies for almost everything. A yacht this size should have use AC voltage for many things. The entire halogen lighting alone on this 75 footer can consume 2,000 watts or 83 amps at 24 volts, this is insane.

After that trip I upgraded the charging sytem. I replaced both engine's alternator with a 175 amps unit and I use two of 200 amps split chargers. I also add another 120 amps emergency battery charger. Now the yacht has 350 amps of alternator power and 300 amps of battery charger power. So far so good.

I find a proper and complete DC monitoring gauges of quality is a must, esspecially my boat does not yet have a generator.
It also will be used in very remote dive location and I need to know what's going on with my DC system all the time.

blueh20pc

AWESOME, better than the yacht builders I worked at, that battery box is an outstanding piece of work, the switches are sealed from the batteries and corrosive bilges, and everything is labeled neatly, Excellent work there, it took me 10 minutes to appreciate all the details in the photos!!!!

blueh20pc

The only thing I can add is that you need to tape off and spray an anti-corrosive film on the connectors when you get finished for piece of mind, even if the boxes and components are sealed from the bilge, outstanding work!!!!!!

Iya

The 3 round gauges above the volmeter & Ampmeter is the height gauge (digital ) for the TH Marine Hydraulic transom jack.
Installing the shunt wiring for the ampmeter and the sensor for the transom jack is a chalenge in itself. I could NOT source locally for a twisted cable with shielding. The shunt when wired a short distance like 1 feet from the ampmeter can use twisted cable I made without shielding. In my application the wiring for domestic shunt was 16.5 feet and the Port and STB engine shunt was like 30 feet. My reading were erratic due to interference caused by all the wires bundled together to run into the dashboard and then towards the overhead electronic box.

The same goes for the TH Marine transom jack height sensors. The reading kept changing when all 3 engines are tuned on. I was frustrated and needed to import from Australia the twisted and shielded cable in 330 feet length. Price was OK but the shipping was a killer. All this sort of delay sometimes drives me nuts. Living in a country lacking of available good stuff marine suppliers can mean delays of months.

Will post more work progress tomorrow.

Iya

Hi Blue,

Great that you can appreciate the work. May I know what kind of anti corossion coating you can reccomend ?
MY choice is very limited here locally. Thanks

I want to tie-down those batteries just in any case if the "unwanted" happen in very heavy sea.
I am thinking to use the same locking strap used on scuba tank, the all plastic ones. Or maybe install a lock on the
fiberglass box and add nylon block on this cover with some rubber sheet, so when I shut the battery box, the batteries get
pushed down secure. What do you think ?

Now it won't move anywhere with the wooden blocks I had on all sides but the bat still can go up if my boat ever flip ( touch wood !!!!!! ) or if I jumped
from some steep rollers. Extreme case scenario.

Thanks
IYA

Reel Boobs

Iya,
Great work! It makes anything I have ever built look like kids play! Can you get a shot of the whole boat, in the water? I am curious of the "stance" or attitude in the water with the 3 Zukes on the new extension. Keep us informed.

__________________
IGFA Certified Observer

Iya

Ok Reel,

I will take side photo soon with all batteries installed and water top up ( +- 50 gallon ) and fuel at +-100 gallon.

Photo below is boat just out of dock after third engine installation.
Zero fuel. Fuel tanks are under cockpit now, no more inside engine room and on the sides. Now engine room is battery box area and massive storage.

Water is also zero. The water tank used to be under the cockpit floor right behind the bulkhead of the cockpit bilge area to engine room bilge area. Now the water tank is exactly at the most rear part of the ex-engine room bulkhead or behind the battery boxes.

IYA

Iya

Since I have to live with the original helm station and there are only enough space on it for two engines instruments, I have to add area on the helmstation to accomodate the third engine throttle and instruments.

I have wanted to use the Gaffrig or similiar racing type tripple engine controls but I don't like it because it uses separate stick for gear and throttle. In big diesel inboard is OK, I can manuver with gear only but with outboards I can't, I need the throttle to park the boat. So I had no choice but to custom make ( boat yard ) certain parts. See the first photo of the third engine controls on a new fiberglass helmstation add on. Also the top instrument array, need another custom made box to place them. I barely clear the compass line of sight.

Second photo is my own designed electrical panel. This is a secondary panel. The primary panel is in the boat saloon or V berth.
A friend of mine has a cnc machine that can make those words by cutting a bit of the aluminum and drill precision holes. There are modification I did on the lay out which to include 4 of FloScan switches, 4 of bilge pumps indicator LED, 4 of high water LED and new lights MCB/switches.

I did not read the FloScan manual properly when designing this panel. I was under the assumption that since it is a twin engine model, the totalizer reset switch need 2 switches, instead it need only one. So it was kind of sad that I missed that one but when I installed the Sea Star Power Steering, I get to use that extra MCB/switch with printed label.

On big yachts, bilge pump when pumping gets an indicator light or LED at the helm telling which pump is pumping and in Euro yacht it gets a low decibel alarm to go with it. I like this feauture because in an outboard boat and when not in the rain or spraying sea, a bilge pump should never pump any water out of the boat unless I have a leak somewhere. I am a fan of dry bilge and this boat by design can have a very dry bilge. I use Blue Sea small yellow led as indicator of bilge pumping, I am still looking for the suitbale low decibel alarm module/buzzer. I want different sound for different alarm, this way I can tell by the sound what is going on. A LED and audio alarm indicating a bilge pump is pumping is also very important aside from water indication. A typical rule pump can come off its lower part attachment and can pump till kingdom comes with no result or say a stuck float switch. If these pumps were to ever run dry for hours on end, it can either kill the batteries or caused overheating and eventually a fire....worst case scenario.

This boat has 4 separate bulkheads which I purposely close shut or isolate. Just in case of severe damaged by grounding caused a puncture in the hull. Of course there are holes like cable holes which can allow water to cross over different partition of the bulkhead but in smaller quantity. I do not believe the stern bilge pump must do all the work in a common bilge waterway as found on most boats. I also think minimum size is Rule 2000, smaller size is quite useless and the computer model ones are not very reliable.


Red led array indicate a flooded situation or high water. I use another Rule float switch for this purpose and located 4 inch above the bilge pump floats. Actually there is another better float switch for this low amperage application that uses magnetic switch but again I need to import from Singapore.......I do with what I can get my hands on. I like Rule bilge pumps but its float is not that great. Out of 8 I bought, I had 2 which its action is bad. Sometimes it get stuck. Sh*ts happens. Since high water or flooding is crtitical, hence I choose red color as emergency situation and I connect the circuits to a 102 decibel automotive siren ( alarm ) horn speaker. It will surely get my attention in all sort of background noise level.

All bilge pumps are wired direct to Domestic bat bank and each has its own 10 amps MCB. Enclosed in a waterproof box and now way anyone can accidentaly turned it off.

Iya

Having three engines is fun but playing with all three hydraulic transom jack while throttle-ling and the need to adjust engine trim all at once is no fun. If i want a fast hole shot I must do all these at the same time.

So I had to wire all three transom jack switches to one common ( trio ) switch aside from the individual ones.
Since all transom jack get its electrical supply from each engine's battery bank, I can't just parallel the 3 switches.
I need the diode isolation again and all fused properly. 3 of 5A diodes, 3 of 0.5 amp fuses and 1 of 2amp fuse.
For those who do not have electrical background, the diodes are required so that the transom jack wiring harness do not become a starting engine parallel cable set. Without the diodes, under the correct circumstances while any engine gets cranked and I pushed the transom jack trio switch, I am allowing these small cables to possibly carry starting current surge. Even though the chances are remote, proper separation of each engine accesories wiring harness to its load/equipment is important.

Photo below is of the Trio switch and 3 individual switches for the TH Marine Hydro Jack.

seacraft06

My I just ask why you decided to do this? Also why have two throttle boxs? But it does catch your eye! Nice work! Do you have any #'s?

__________________


1979 23 cc SeaCraft Rebuilt By HermCo Twin 200 HPDI's "FloAlong"
1999 16 Carolina Skiff 500cc Johnson Endeavor

FloAlong Fishing Team videos: http://www.youtube.com/user/FloAlong...m?feature=mhee

Iya

The thee engines also need its trim switches to be wired all three together. Same isolation diodes wiring as the transom jack.
I have the Suzuki 250 shop manual. There is an electrical schematic there and after looking at it, I do not see any isolation diodes on the trim wiring drawings. The dual throttle box of the Suzuki also has its wiring schematic and it can operate twin engine trim with a selector setting. I have not tested my "worries" but if I am correct on this, if you set the trim at twin engine setting and push the trim button while any one engine is being cranked, the 15A fuse at the wiring harness may blow if not the 30A fuse on the engine itself. Same worry I had with my trio connection of my transom jack.

Below is the photo of my Trio switch for the 3 engines trim (PTT).