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I think what everyone is trying to say its a safety issue with them and this tank just happens to cost a lot of money to replace. If it were me their is enough opinions on this tread to put a word of caution and doubt in my thinking on repairing this tank. If I could not afford to replace now I would not use the boat until I saved the money up for a replacement. Its not worth me taking a chance to see who is right I would be on the safe side for sure.
Simply put, good luck! If the boat does explode at some point, you will probably be liable for the costs of medical bills if any, and the costs of the damage to the boat will probably excede the cost of a new tank by many thousands of dollors. Some tanks can be restored and epoxied, by the pics you posted, yours did not look like a good candidate!
Did you have it pressure checked? How do you know it is as good as a new tank???? The last time I checked, new tanks are tested and certified. Also new tanks vary in there longivity and cost based on the material used and the thickness of the material used. Do you even know what the original thickness is on your tank?
Like I said, good luck and hope it works out for you, but that unforseen cost of a new tank to me, is far outweighed by the risk you are taking. Not to mention all the work that will be wasted if it fails.
Below are a few links for tank repair products. So, there are companies out there that make this stuff and they are still in business despite the doom and gloom that some suggest will happen when you repair a tank. Can anyone who has said get a new tank tell me when the last time they pulled there tank to inspect it so that they can say for certaintly that their tank is not in the same condition as the OP's??? I asked before and received no answers!!!!
Unlike you, we have already helped him out by giving him sound advice! Fuel and fumes is nothing to play with, and the op may think differently about his actions if the boat explodes do to a leaking fuel tank. The op came here for advice, and we gave it to him. Your statement sir is like others said, very stupid!
Quote:
Originally Posted by PMaine
Since you are so concerned are you going to help the guy out or not?
Foaming in a fuel tank has proven to be unsuitable for reason of holding moisture causing early failure of the tank by corrosion.
For the preferred method on a new tank installation, if you research new tanks being built and installed these days, you will see that they have mounting tabs welded to the top surface extending out 2 inches and bolted or screwed into the top of the stringer / bulkhead grid.
For installing a tank that does not have these tabs in place (ie a used / reconditioned) the recommended procedure I have found is as follows: Using PVC lumber (say for instance 1 x 2 x length of tank) glue to bottom and sides of tank (taking care to eliminate any voids) using 3M's 52OO sealant. After curing apply a 1/4 bead of 52OO to PVC to bond to boat hull and stringer grid (shim ias needed). Taking care not to allow any place for water to be trapped. The goal here is to have an envelope (min 1/4 inch) of well drained air around the entire tank eliminating any area of friction and water retention between the tank and surrounding surfaces.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cfauvel
I am curious how you hung the tank without using foam to keep it secure.
Do you have pictures or a drawing you can provide?
In my mind the hanging of the tank would lead to a great deal of travel and shake/rattle/roll.
Foaming in a fuel tank has proven to be unsuitable for reason of holding moisture causing early failure of the tank by corrosion.
For the preferred method on a new tank installation, if you research new tanks being built and installed these days, you will see that they have mounting tabs welded to the top surface extending out 2 inches and bolted or screwed into the top of the stringer / bulkhead grid.
For installing a tank that does not have these tabs in place (ie a used / reconditioned) the recommended procedure I have found is as follows: Using PVC lumber (say for instance 1 x 2 x length of tank) glue to bottom and sides of tank (taking care to eliminate any voids) using 3M's 52OO sealant. After curing apply a 1/4 bead of 52OO to PVC to bond to boat hull and stringer grid (shim ias needed). Taking care not to allow any place for water to be trapped. The goal here is to have an envelope (min 1/4 inch) of well drained air around the entire tank eliminating any area of friction and water retention between the tank and surrounding surfaces.
Finally - actually useful information in this thread!!! You the man!!
I understood you, Ron, I just don't see it quite as black or white, as do you in most discussions. I replaced my tank two years ago because it was actually leaking, a no-brainer in my case, plus repairing would have cost a leg up on a new one anyway. This tank wasn't leaking, isn't likely to suddenly start after arresting the corrosion, neither you nor any of us has laid eyes on it before or after, and I suspect few, if any of us have much hands on experience with coating a tank in the first place. You often have a keen insight into problems, but what you would do is sometimes just that, what you would do and of little additional value to the poster. That, and Key Pine Savage promised me a fishing trip if I keep reminding you that there are shades of grey out there ...
I understood you, Ron, I just don't see it quite as black or white, as do you in most discussions. ..... That, and Key Pine Savage promised me a fishing trip if I keep reminding you that there are shades of grey out there ...
Oh you SOB. My life will now not be worth living. But I'll manage.
I am curious as to how much Ron charges to restore boats. I am in the middle of a restoration and now I am scared that if Ron does not sign off on QC it may dangerous and unsafe and just might blow up taking the whole THT forum and all their boats with it as this apparently will be one heck of an explosion. It might rival a nuclear blast and trigger WW III and then there I will be having to explain to St peter why he has to work overtime to check in all the souls that will be showing up to the pearly gates prematurely. Maybe I should just sell my boats and move far away from the water until they come up with some kind of alternative energy to run those boats with. Something that makes the sky bluer, the grass greener, and can never injure anyone. Then again who gives a ...........what Ron thinks!
__________________ Boat= A whole in the water you throw money in!
I am curious as to how much Ron charges to restore boats. I am in the middle of a restoration and now I am scared that if Ron does not sign off on QC it may dangerous and unsafe and just might blow up taking the whole THT forum and all their boats with it as this apparently will be one heck of an explosion. It might rival a nuclear blast and trigger WW III and then there I will be having to explain to St peter why he has to work overtime to check in all the souls that will be showing up to the pearly gates prematurely. Maybe I should just sell my boats and move far away from the water until they come up with some kind of alternative energy to run those boats with. Something that makes the sky bluer, the grass greener, and can never injure anyone. Then again who gives a ...........what Ron thinks!
Unlike you, we have already helped him out by giving him sound advice! Fuel and fumes is nothing to play with, and the op may think differently about his actions if the boat explodes do to a leaking fuel tank. The op came here for advice, and we gave it to him. Your statement sir is like others said, very stupid!
No, you gave him your opinion, that doesn't automatically make it sound or even logical, no one here knows if he can repair it properly or not.