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Old 06-17-2017, 12:14 PM   #1
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Default commonality with choke, low oil warning

I have a 30 hp Yamaha 2 stroke. The engine runs well at both low and high speed. But here are the problems, the electric choke does not work although I can choke manually to start the engine. The low oil warning light or buzzer does not work and when the engine runs low on oil instead of reducing speed to low it shuts down. It appears there is something common within these systems. I have checked wiring and connections and all seem clean.
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Old 06-19-2017, 06:23 AM   #2
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What year Yamaha? Better still is the complete model identity.

Normally there should be no correlation between a solenoid operated choke and the low oil alarm. Other than the fact that both operate with 12 volts.
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Old 06-19-2017, 10:05 AM   #3
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Model 30 ECG Code 6J8 and its about a 1988. It's possible that there is two issues, but it seems suspicious that both went at the same time. Following the wiring diagram, the only common thing I could find is within the key-speed-shift control box. That is where the buzzer is (for low oil) and the electric choke switch. Somewhere within the logic there is a speed control which activates when low oil is alarmed. In my case this is not working as the engine stops rather than goes to low speed. Other than those issues, the engine starts and runs (high speed and idle) well.
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Old 06-19-2017, 01:27 PM   #4
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The choke solenoid is grounded to the engine block. The key switch being pressed in, or a toggle on a key switch panel being pressed, applies voltage to the solenoid to make it function. Disconnect the power supply wire (blue) to the solenoid. Apply battery power directly to the solenoid blue wire male bullet connector and see if the solenoid functions. If if does not work, check the ground connection. If the ground is good but the solenoid does not activate then the solenoid is kaput.

With respect to the buzzer in the control box, it should have electrical power applied to it whenever the key switch is on. The yellow wire applies the power. The buzzer is grounded by either the thermoswitch or the oil tank low oil switch. Via a pink wire. The pink wire also applies a ground to the CDI assembly to let it know about the problem, in which case the CDI puts the motor into RPM reduction mode. The pink wire also grounds the LED warning lamp.

I would start by getting the LED warning lamp to illuminate and the buzzer to sound when either the thermoswitch is closed or the low oil level switch is closed. The thermoswitch and the low oil switch both share the same ground. Also, check all of the ground connections. Poor ground connections can make some strange stuff appear.
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Old 06-19-2017, 04:11 PM   #5
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Thanks, I will get after your recommendations tomorrow. I'll post a note when complete.
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Old 06-21-2017, 12:18 PM   #6
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One problem solved. The keeper ring for the choke solenoid actuator had come off and thus the actuator arm had come off of the choke arm are and also came out of the solenoid. Replaced and all is ok. Now onto the low oil and buzzer problem.
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Old 06-23-2017, 11:55 AM   #7
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First of all, thank you for your advice. If I wasn't following the wiring to the choke solenoid I may have never noticed the actuator arm lying at the bottom of the cowling. Now onto the other problem. I have checked all wiring connections, specifically the pink and grounds. All are clean and tight. I removed the temp switch and lightly heated it with a heat gun - the alarm sounded but the high temp light did not light. I then pulled the low oil sensor from the oil reservoir far enough for the alarm to sound. Again it sounded, but the light did not light. I have not taken the boat to test whether it will drop in RPM's when these systems are alarmed. However I notice on the wiring diagram that the Y/R wire from the warning light goes directly into the CDI. Would this mean that if the light itself was defective then the CDI would not get the proper signal.

PS: My wife and I spent 6 months touring Australia and put about 45,000 km on our rental car in 5 months (our last month was spent in Sydney). Truly loved the country - especially Queensland & NSW.
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Old 06-23-2017, 11:58 AM   #8
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PSS: Unfortunately we were rained (flooded) out and were unable to make it to Darwin and Kakadu NP. But we had a great time.
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Old 06-23-2017, 01:37 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedLake1 View Post
I have checked all wiring connections, specifically the pink and grounds. All are clean and tight. I removed the temp switch and lightly heated it with a heat gun - the alarm sounded but the high temp light did not light. I then pulled the low oil sensor from the oil reservoir far enough for the alarm to sound. Again it sounded, but the light did not light. I have not taken the boat to test whether it will drop in RPM's when these systems are alarmed. However I notice on the wiring diagram that the Y/R wire from the warning light goes directly into the CDI. Would this mean that if the light itself was defective then the CDI would not get the proper signal.
Good to know that the over temperature and low oil audible warning system works. If the horn sounds I suspect that the CDI will put the motor into RPM reduction mode.

The lamp (an LED) works based on a ground being applied to it. From either the thermoswitch or the low oil quantity switch. Either test the pink wire to the lamp for the presence of a ground when either switch is closed or test the lamp itself. Use a 1.5 volt AA cell. Positive voltage from the cell to the y/r wire and ground from the cell to the pink wire from the lamp. Of course also inspect all electrical connections to the lamp.

On a motor the age of yours it would not hurt to disconnect and reconnect all of the bullet connectors several times to help improve conductivity. Starting with either 12 volts or less you can stand much resistance being in a circuit.
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Old 06-24-2017, 11:00 AM   #10
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I checked the bulb as recommended. It does not light. I will replace the bulb, but it appears all else is now good. I guess I am good to go. Thank you for all of your help!!
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