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Old 05-18-2017, 03:02 PM   #21
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I found some more numbers if that'll help anyone pinpoint year for me this one was on a plate on the mount 3C176651
And this was on a plate attached to the carb
t640-03b

Really rackin my brains trying to find some info for this thing
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Old 05-18-2017, 03:13 PM   #22
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You wanna sell that relic?
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Old 05-18-2017, 04:54 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbergeron View Post
I found some more numbers if that'll help anyone pinpoint year for me this one was on a plate on the mount 3C176651
And this was on a plate attached to the carb
t640-03b

Really rackin my brains trying to find some info for this thing
Maybe Sears can help??
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Old 05-18-2017, 06:47 PM   #24
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sears website will be able to pull the model info off what you posted.

I believe you have a Ted Williams 7-1/2 hp, having owned a few in the past.

I can also tell you your likely problem is the "fuel pump" which is a small rubber part that looks like an uninflated water balloon.

This probably has all the stuff you need http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eska-Sears-T...-/302319076880 The fuel pump is the red thing.

and if it's been sitting it would not hurt to pop the flywheel and polish the points.
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Old 05-19-2017, 04:47 PM   #25
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I did pull the flywheel, and cleaned everything up good. That helped. I also called sears and gave them every number I could find and they showed nothing.. maybe I do want to sell the relic
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Old 05-19-2017, 05:23 PM   #26
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Does engine have points or some sort of electronic ignition under the flywheel?
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Old 05-20-2017, 02:36 PM   #27
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This is what it looks like under the flywheel
Attached Images
  
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Old 05-20-2017, 06:47 PM   #28
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Use this model number and compare part pics to yours. 217-58820
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Old 05-21-2017, 04:19 PM   #29
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You need to order the fuel pump. You have electronic ignition so no points to worry about.

Edit: A quick way to diagnose spark vs fuel problems is a shot of ether (starting fluid) or preferably a lubricant with a propane propellant in the spray can. WD 40 used to have this not sure if it still does.

If the engine pops you have spark and need to pursue fuel issues.

At some point someone is going to say "you better change the impeller on an engine that old". Don't sweat that until you have it running in a garbage can. The water pump only cools the lower unit and quiets the exhaust.
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Old 05-22-2017, 11:09 AM   #30
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Gave it a quick spray of starting fluid and it fired right up... I tried taking the carb apart to find that little red "fuel pump" but I was unsuccessful... I've been trying it with the top mounted tank, and have pulled the lines off and fuel flows through freely. So it has to be inside the carb..
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Old 05-22-2017, 11:27 AM   #31
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Does your carb look like this one's exploded view ? http://www.searspartsdirect.com/mode...hTerm=21758820
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Old 05-22-2017, 02:30 PM   #32
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The carb tag says 640-03b so I assume that's the carb part number. Mine looks similar to the diagram you linked but not identical. I also believe the model number to be 217.585910 now. After it popped on starting fluid I put it in a barrel of water and it fired up and ran on my fuel. But only while choked. If I opened the choke the Rpms increased and then it stalled. Tomorrow I plan to try and find the adjustment screw on the carb and set that appropriately. the other question I have is about the lean/rich knob. Is there a certain way to set that?
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Old 05-22-2017, 06:48 PM   #33
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lean/rich knob only affects low speed. CCW means rich, CW means lean. If it needs choke to run, that's lean, turn it CCW. Set it so it runs the best.
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Old 05-23-2017, 08:20 AM   #34
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Played with a little this morning I can find any set screw on the carb? Maybe I'm missing it but I've rebuilt tons of small carbs like this and have never had trouble.. it starts now and will run for a while throttled up and even with the choke opened a sliver, but the rpms fluctuate a bit and I can tell it's not spinning nearly as fast as it wants too. Since it can't be a timing thing, unless the plug is not firing every time. It must need a carb rebuild? Maybe that little red fuel pump is cracked and can't keep pressure? Also before anyone hollers at me once it started up and ran for a few seconds I checked the exhaust holes and there is a very consistent mist coming out so I believe the impeller is fine until I can get the motor running comfortably.
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Old 05-23-2017, 08:33 AM   #35
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Have you cleaned out the carb? If not, do it and post photos of the carb. I think the red rubber fuel pump thingy is captured under the gasket between carb and engine, but could be wrong. Can't remember where the mixture screw is, but seem to recall it had a piece of flexible cable leading to it??

If red thingy has ruptured, it floods out engine. Likely not your problem. Probably can avoid taking apart fuel pump plate gaskets also. Just clean bowl and jets.

I had one when I was 13, forty years ago. Memory a bit foggy from back then!!
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Old 05-23-2017, 01:45 PM   #36
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No I haven't cleaned it out, it looks kinda tough to get out, but I will take it out this week and give everything a thorough cleaning. Hopefully that will solve the problem. I'm just going to need to order a gasket kit
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Old 05-23-2017, 07:48 PM   #37
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You just won't listen. It's the red thing. I'm trying to download the above posted parts diagram but it seems to me I remember it behind the Carb to block gasket sticking into the crankcase. As I said before, it looks like an uninflated water ballon. It uses crankcase pressure to pulse the "balloon" to pump fuel. If it ruptures, which it does with time, it does not flood the engine through the carb- it just stops pumping.

Change the red thing. ("Fuel Pump").

I think if you pull the carb and gasket off all you will see is the red circle of the fuel pump sitting flush with the mounting surface on the crankcase. This is off memory. I am 52 now and last diagnosed and fixed this when I was 14. I only remember it because of the bike ride I had to take to the Sears distribution center to get that part from the Sears distribution center on Spruce St. in Tampa FL.Over 15 miles each way but my parents wouldn't drive me. When I brought that 1.69 part home and installed it and repaired my motor myself I was free to run the Hillsborough River again even though I got my butt whipped for biking over there. What you will see is a red circle smaller than a dime and an oval hole in it, which goes into the balloon part of the pump.
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Old 05-24-2017, 06:48 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capt. thunder View Post
First thing you should do is check for a cracked head

I see what you did there...
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Old 05-24-2017, 06:55 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omnifish View Post
I see what you did there...
Haha. I was wondering when somebody would notice.
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Old 05-24-2017, 09:20 AM   #40
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Was able to get the red pump out and it looks good to me. No crack still rubbery not hard at all. I will replace as they're only 6$ but I even blew into it a little and it held the pressure so I think it's still good. I also blew air through all the holes. I'll replace the pump and all the gaskets and re assemble and see if that works
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