The Hull Truth - Boating and Fishing Forum

Go Back   >
Search


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-10-2016, 04:36 AM   #1
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 54
Default Flats boat rebuild

Hi guys,
New to the forum, just got a Archer Craft basic hull with deck. getting ready to replace the stringers, my question is: It looks like they used 2x4's for the stringers, should I go back with 2x4's or marine plywood, 2x4's would be easier, plywood is more work, if I use plywood what is the best way to glue them together?
Please let me know what you think, I will have more questions and updates as the build progresses
Thanks,
Dunahoo
Attached Images
   
Dunahoo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2016, 04:47 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Heart of Dixie
Posts: 1,750
Default

Great looking hull I have been looking for a flats to re build for a while so have fun. I will now throw in my 2 cents and it is worth about half of that so here goes. Both ideas are acceptable, if you want to use wood which is old school use the wood for stringers just make sure you glass them in very well to keep them dry, my theory is they were like that originally and how long did they last, how long will you keep it, will say if you go with wood use fir or something like that, nothing pressure treated. The other option is build them up with polyiso foam, and again a good laminating schedule for strength. The one thing I can stress is sealed up tight and if you must penetrate the stringers for anything use a rigging tube and again seal it up tight as it appears as there were holes drilled in from the top, that is where the rot starts if not done correctly and that does not look correct from the picture. Have fun and good luck.
tbaxl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2016, 05:24 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Isle of Palms, SC
Posts: 240
Default

Have sections of the stringers already been removed? If so, the shape of the bottom is changing before your eyes. Make sure the hull is properly supported. Otherwise you may glass new stringers into an undesirable shape. I've seen it happen to fiberglass "experts".

Island Marine Group, LLC
www.islandmarinegroup.com
Island Marine Group is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2016, 06:10 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Isle of Palms, SC
Posts: 240
Default

Have sections of the stringers already been removed? If so, the shape of the bottom is changing before your eyes. Make sure the hull is properly supported. Otherwise you may glass new stringers into an undesirable shape. I've seen it happen to fiberglass "experts".

Island Marine Group, LLC
www.islandmarinegroup.com
Island Marine Group is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2016, 07:07 AM   #5
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 54
Default Looks like I'm replacing the transom

Got the deck and caps off, had some rot in the top left of the transom, hogged out with a router till I hit good wood, then started down with an 18" drill, hogged out one third of the left side, looks like it will be easier to cut out the inner glass and just remove the whole transom. Looking of any help or suggestions. Keep you posted.
Attached Images
   
Dunahoo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2016, 04:53 AM   #6
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 54
Default

Ok, have decided to go with coosa board for the transom and stringers, might as well do it right. This will make a 100% composite boat that I can be proud of when I finish. Any input welcome.
Dunahoo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2016, 07:43 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,969
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dunahoo View Post
Got the deck and caps off, had some rot in the top left of the transom, hogged out with a router till I hit good wood, then started down with an 18" drill, hogged out one third of the left side, looks like it will be easier to cut out the inner glass and just remove the whole transom. Looking of any help or suggestions. Keep you posted.
If that transom has good wood left in it it can be difecult to remove. The last one i did had a strong transom. I used a grinder to clean up the inside skin so it was a good flat surface. Then cut scribes in it with the circular saw about every two inches, horizontal and vertical. Set the depth so it cuts through the core material but not into the exterior fiberglass. Once you have the scribe marks cut you can use a hammer and flat bar to pop the squares loose. There was a couple areas in the corners that i couldnt reach very well, a sawsall worked good to remove it. After you have all the core removed clean it up with a angle grinder and 24-36 grit.
surv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2016, 04:24 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: West Palm Beach,FL.
Posts: 216
Default

I used a cheapo air hammer with the widest flat chisel tip. It took awhile but saved me from smashing my thumb with a hammer. My wood was damp but still bonded good. Good luck with your project, cool boat.
FL.flatback 222 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2016, 04:34 AM   #9
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 54
Default

All right, just got back from a week of elk hunting and trout fishing in Colorado. Ready to start cutting the transom out this weekend. Thanks for the tips, I can use all the help you can give. Let ya know how things turn out.
Dunahoo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2016, 04:48 AM   #10
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 54
Default

Got the transom all scrapped out and cleaned up. The wood was pretty good but there was some water and rot though out. Thanks for your advise on hogging it out, worked well. Going back with 2 3/4" layers of coosa board. Should I layer 1708 between each layer? Let me know.
Dunahoo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2016, 04:53 AM   #11
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 54
Default

Got the transom all scrapped out and cleaned up. The wood was pretty good but there was some water and rot though out. Thanks for your advise on hogging it out, worked well. Going back with 2 3/4" layers of coosa board. Should I layer 1708 between each layer? Let me know.
Attached Images
    
Dunahoo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2016, 12:45 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: West Palm Beach,FL.
Posts: 216
Default

I replaced my transom with coosa also. I did a layer of 1708 then a layer of 1.5oz chopped mat. I think the chopped mat bonds better to the next piece of coosa than the weave of the 1708.
FL.flatback 222 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2016, 01:07 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 3,767
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by FL.flatback 222 View Post
I replaced my transom with coosa also. I did a layer of 1708 then a layer of 1.5oz chopped mat. I think the chopped mat bonds better to the next piece of coosa than the weave of the 1708.
If youre using polyester resin, use the 1.5 CSM in between...if going with epoxy, no need for glass in between both layers...just thickened resin troweled on like doing tile work....just pre wet bonding sides with neat unthickened resin before clamping it all together...do the transom first, then the stringers and tie them into the transom with glass.Nice project...looks like easy access to everything.
maxie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2016, 06:35 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: skittleville fl
Posts: 6,992
Default

Whatever you build make sure you keep an eye on the hull width. You want the cap to fit back on.
mitchell master is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2016, 05:43 AM   #15
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 54
Default

Hi, haven't had any time to work on the boat like I want to, still waiting on my coosa board. Thanks for the input, I have clamped boards across to maintain hull dimensions. I have access to loose fiberglass and carbon fiber, with or with out sizing, my question is should I use loose fiber (carbon or glass) when making up butter or filler resin, any of you have experience with either? Gonna try to make time this weekend to get so work done. Thanks
Dunahoo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2016, 05:56 AM   #16
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 3,767
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dunahoo View Post
Hi, haven't had any time to work on the boat like I want to, still waiting on my coosa board. Thanks for the input, I have clamped boards across to maintain hull dimensions. I have access to loose fiberglass and carbon fiber, with or with out sizing, my question is should I use loose fiber (carbon or glass) when making up butter or filler resin, any of you have experience with either? Gonna try to make time this weekend to get so work done. Thanks
What you mean by loose fiber? Milled fiber which is like a powder? Chopped fiber, either in 1/16, 1/8 or 1/4 inch lengths? Milled fiber adds strength for making fillets but it takes a lot to thicken up the viscosity...its works better if you add cabosil with the milled fiber to make a paste/putty. Chopped fibers are more difficult to mix and keep smooth....and may clump if it has sizing, so use the fibers without sizing if possible...but I would still use cabosil with any fiber to make a paste.
maxie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2016, 06:19 AM   #17
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 54
Default

I have cabosil for thicking my butter, the fiber is chopped not milled, my question is when and where would I use chopped fiber if at all?
Dunahoo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2016, 08:00 AM   #18
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 3,767
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dunahoo View Post
I have cabosil for thicking my butter, the fiber is chopped not milled, my question is when and where would I use chopped fiber if at all?
Mostly for structural fillets or if you need to bond two cores together....but most people used the milled fiber version along with cabosil in order to make smoother joints....the longer the fiber, the stronger you could say the putty is, but pulling it will be rough and streaky...milled or powders are much smoother on a fillet.
maxie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2016, 04:34 AM   #19
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 54
Default

Still waiting on my coosa board, did a bunch of grunt work yesterday. Got all the inside of the boat ground and sanded, next will be ready to install the transom, then the stringers. I think once I get those done I'll flip her over, sand and re-gel coat the bottom before I start on the floor. I'm still learning as I go, always looking for suggestions. Thanks
Attached Images
 
Dunahoo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2016, 05:26 AM   #20
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: West Palm Beach,FL.
Posts: 216
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dunahoo View Post
Still waiting on my coosa board, did a bunch of grunt work yesterday. Got all the inside of the boat ground and sanded, next will be ready to install the transom, then the stringers. I think once I get those done I'll flip her over, sand and re-gel coat the bottom before I start on the floor. I'm still learning as I go, always looking for suggestions. Thanks
That looks like a good days worth of grinding. I'm itching from looking at the pic's. Your making good progress. What material are you gonna use for stringer's?
FL.flatback 222 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 01:12 PM.


©2009 TheHullTruth.com

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.9.3.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.