Enclosing a center console

[Foggylink]

I have a Parker 21se, and I am toying with the idea of adding a windshield/hardtop to the top of the existing console. Similar to what the Maritime Skiffs have on the 23 Patriot. Has anyone done this before or am I nuts. Anyone have pics ? Thanks All...

http://www.maritimeskiff.com/patriot.html

[Deanster]

I've also been considering this for my 27' whaler - any ideas, approaches, warnings would be of great interest to me as well.

[horseradish]

My Pusuit 2470 came with a factory installed enclosure. I don't know how to upload .jpg's to this site. E-mail me direct and I'll sent pics to ever requests them.

It's a fine system and you add or remove elements depending on weather. It's hot here in the Gulf and I remove the whole thing during the summer and had a custom windshield made to "duck" behind the wind and rain but can see over for better visability

Pursuit 2470, Twin Yam 150's

[Mumblerone]

It's a tough call; we fish throught October and sometimes into November up here. I took a hard look at the Boston Whaler Offshore (no longer made) before I bought my current boat. Rain gear and warm clothes go a long way, I like the room you get on a CC; your in the elements fighting a fish anyway. I have a T-top and a winscreen and can always see where I'm going withot a fogged up window. Certainly a personal choice. If the boat was bigger the enclosed CC would make a difference.

Boston Whaler, "MUMBLER", 24' Outrage, twin 175 HP Evinrude Ocean Pros. Snowball, the cat...

[Garett]

It's doable guys; at least I know that I could do a decent job of it. The question is can you? It is after all a big undertaking to make it look factory and not butch.

One of the first thing you would need to do is find the right sizes of rubber boots to house the windshield and side glass. Screwed and caulked glass looks like butch.

Then make a blemish free prototype: You could use Bass wood (very easy to shape and work with), make every hole to a perfect fit and finish (the glass must fit perfectly at this stage), fill the grains of the wood, epoxy paint to a 100% perfect finish. This is now your master male mould.

Now turn around and make a two part female master mould.

From this two part female mould, you can now make your finished product 100% out of fiberglass.

Another mould will have to be made if you want the uprights to be hollow to accommodate wires.

An additional mould will have to be made if an electrical box is to be part of the structure.

The final project can be either as a one piece unit or a two/three piece and epoxied together. One piece is harder but more attractive and professional.

This is a very basic overview of what is involed. It should give you a sense of the work that is involed and an idea of the amount of material it will that to complete the job. It is a good size chunck of change for just one.

Personally, I'd be reccommending just making one out of Teak, Cypress or some other type of wood that will stand up to a watery environment.

Once bitten, twice shy

[Deanster]

thanks Garrett - this process is part of why I haven't done this yet, and am just thinking about trading my 1989 Whaler Outrage Center Console Cuddy for a 1991 Offshore like Mumblerone mentioned. Probably faster, cheaper and easier, even with the hassle of selling the boat.

Anyone want a 1989 BW Center Console Cuddy, average condition, with twin 1995 Johnson V8 300Hp outboards? I'll sell it to ya for the price of a 1991 BW Offshore...

[wahoome]

You might be able to turn out a professional looking job without the molding by using Nidacore panels that have been scored for bends. This stuff makes a strong panel that I think is superior to any balsa or foam cores. Either way there's a ton of filling and sanding work to be done to get the finish close to gel coat quality. Follow Garrett's advice on the windows for sure.

"A bad day fishing is better than a good day in the office."