To move batteries to center under console from transom box or no?

[netsonic]

HI.. I have a 1995 2120 robalo.. I currently have a 4 stroke kicker on the back on the middle stbd on the cutout with a merc 225.. Also on the port side boxes, there are two group 30 batts - ~80 pounds each. I got the boat from salt water so it didnt sit quite so deep.. in fresh water it sits a little lower.. Also during cruise, it wants to list to port - I assume due to the prop rotation as it doesnt do it at trolling speed - 2mph ish or slow no wake speed going out the harbor.

I plan on adding trim tabs this winter however Im wondering if I shouldnt just move the batts while Im at it to inside the center console.

The reason being, is that when we get 2 guys or somtimes three in the back of the boat, it will sit lower especially in a following sea and ill get some water over the transom - its an open... other times it will come up to the scuppers which is pretty regular but not a big problem in my eyes. I am wanting to just get some weight out of the back of the boat..

It gets even worse when we have the in deck fish box full which is just forward about 2' from the transom or if it fills with water as a result of water coming up the back and im not paying attention - read -- not catching fish so not paying attention to fish box --

geesh.. long story.. question do you guys find it usefull or do you think its worthwhile to move the batteries forward.. that will get ~160# out of the transom at least and put them in the middle of the boat.

[cgrand]

yes

[Tunadevil]

cgrand - 7/25/2006 1:46 PM

yes

[steve74]

I would move them into the console.

[trfyhlr]

I had a 19 ft Klamath CC, Moved the two batteries to the front of the boat. Placed them inside the Console with a Battery switch. Had a 115 Merc and 9.9 four stroke on the transom. Installed a 26 gallon fuel tank under the Captians seat. Relly balance out the boat.

[captsuperfly]

yes

[Cooper]

I moved mine to help with prop torque, weight in the rear, and to free up the aft box for other junk.

[rwidman]

You will need to replace the battery cables with a larger gauge to account for the increased resistance of the longer cable run. Check the ABYC electrical codes for length and physical protection requirements. The batteries will be subject to more vibration the farther forward they are.

Considering the above, if the boat will handle better, do it. Put the battery switches up there also to minimize the amount of unswitched (and unprotected) cable.

[javven]

I'm moving my single transom batt. up fwd and adding another batt for the same reasons.

Glad I found some info!

A bit more pounding further fwd but I'm not worried about it at the console...

[halibut howie]

Yep. Did it a couple of years ago. Moved two gp29 bats from the transom into the cuddy and added two more for total of 4. The extra weight forward helps boat plane quicker and keeps bow from bouncing so much in a headsea.

HH

[itch2fish]

Will be doing it on my 23 reg.....

[schmo]

sounds like a move would help , i moved mine

[netsonic]

Excellent.. Its on the winter project list now. Hardest part will be to get the new cables back to the stern now.

[netsonic]

BTW... Thanks for all the responses and info!

[Cooper]

www.bestboatwire.com is a good place to get the cables and lugs. Get one of the crimpers where you use a hammer to pinch the lug - they're less than $20 shipped if you shop around.

[donald/tri-again]

best mod we made on the boat was moving batts to console. put fatigue mat under them though as there is more pounding forward than at transom. easiest thing to do is mount a pos and neg terminal at transom run wires from there

[t-bone31]

yes
it'll be a new boat
cables will be a few $$$
but its totally worth it

[netsonic]

Hi all.. Im going to get cracking on this project.. Here is what I have and after I will spec what I want to do.


I currently have 2 group 30's on the port side storage box. They run neg to neg and then to motor. 2 positive cables to the port side box where the battery switch is.

connected to the batt switch on the common side is the positive to starter relay, kicker pos, and a wire for the jiggy rigged trim control box (another story). I also have on the common a 2 wire feed back to the console to power an additional teminal bar for accessories that I ran out of switches for and have their own off and on.

Here is how I want to do it.

Put batts in console. Put switch in console.

From common on selector switch, feed the newer terminal bar then run two 4 guage or 2 guage (im not sure - its about 7-9' in the conduit of which i will need lots of lube) - one positive and one negative back to a negative and positive terminal bars. From the positive terminal bar, I can feed the starter relay, kicker motor starter and from negative kicker negative wire - it has alternator and starter.

The main reasons I want terminal bars back near the transom are for A) only have to run two wires - pos and neg versus 3 - two positives and neg and still would need a terminal bar and B) for an easy location to wire my electric downriggers.

My motor manual - '96 225 merc carb'd says the max amps would be 165 with no load amps 25.

Does this seem the correct way to go about this or is there some considerations I should be thinking of?

Thanks for any advise.

[Kamper]

By the way, if your boat 'pounds' you might want to add a piece of closed cell padding under the batteries to reduce the chance of damage due to the extra stress.

[savage]

Be sure to put the batteries inside battery boxes. More pleasing to the eye, and you can never anticipate what is going to get shoved into there... The wife's favorite windbreaker looks better without the battery acid holes.