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Random Quote: If the motors knock'n, turn the radio UP!
Went fishing this a.m, thought the motor sounded a little loud with a slight knocking type noise. Took off full power and no problems, normal planing speed, rpms, etc.. Didn't notice the knock that much while cruising (you know how loud these 2S engines are). Slowed to get some fish for bait and sure enough the knock is there and louder. No real noticeable virbration however. In any event, finished the day, the thing never blew up but the knock is louder. When docking I shifted into reverse there was some seriously clunking going on.
In neutral the engine sounds normal (not under any load off course).
So, I think that it is the lower unit.
What does anyone else think?
Flynny7, I am coming after you for the personal one year warranty you provided me with(kidding).
Oh and if you are going to post a response as a FICHT basher GFY!!
Everyone else, thanks for your thoughts and assuming it is the L/U any ideas on the cost to replace it?
__________________ 1998 HS 245 Vector CC
2007 Evinrude 250 etec rigged and rockin!
Sound like the gearcase. When mine failed it was sudden and sounded like a coffee grinder. No idea on cost as mine was replaced under warranty. I've seen some 2000 Fichts wearing the Magnum gearcase so you might inquire about what it would cost to replace with one of those.
I would drop the lower unit lube. If there is something going on inthe lowerit will be evident in the lube.
Good luck....
__________________ Andy Munao Our new parts site: www.simyamaha.com Yamaha Outboard Sales, Parts and Service 1-800-213-3323 parts@shipyardisland.com Click the logo to see our THT Vendor Forum
PO28der, the word ficht brings out the worst in bashers. The GFY was for them.
Guys thanks for the replies. It is kind of sad rooting for a $2,500.00 problem as I was hoping that you all would confirm that is was the L/U and not a bearing/rod or something inside the engine itself. My mech is going to drain off some fluid before we pull her out just to confirm, from the sounds of it there should be metal in there.
I think that the prior owner, a THT member, had the L/U replaced under the FICHT recall, but I guess it doesn't matter now. All that matters is that it is summer in CT, the summer is short and whatever the cost invloved is what it is, I am more concerned about how soon my guy can look at it and then fix it.
I have a client that is an evinrude mech so I hope that he can hook me up. Time will tell and I will let you all know how it turns out.
BTW if it is $3,000.00 to fix that amounts to a grand per fish that was caught this morning. man, could have had dinner in the Keys for that.
What still amazes me is that I could take it up to 4500 rpm and run a normal 30 mph cruise and other than the noise there was really no shake, but perhaps it hasn't totally let go yet.
__________________ 1998 HS 245 Vector CC
2007 Evinrude 250 etec rigged and rockin!
Dont rebuild the old case. BRP came out with the Magnum gearcase for a reason. All the OMC gearcase that were left went to the scrap heap. Spend the extra money and go with the new BRP Magnum gearcase. It will be the last one you need to buy.
__________________ Yes im a ETEC dealer. No I am not in sales. Im not trying to sell anything. I will only comment on ETEC threads. No I do not bad mouth other outboard mfg's.
Mine was banging when trying to get up on plane, I was in P town cruising with the wife and we decided to take a slow ride home ( it was a great day to be on the water) so after sometime and fuel burned off I was able to ease it up on plane and I left the throttle right where it was for the next 50 minutes, it was diagnosed as the LU and sat in the dealers yard for 5 weeks, $3300 later for a magnum gearcase and I was on my way, only to blow an injector the following weekend so the boat sat another 4 weeks. I pulled the FICHT for the new Zuke done deal
__________________ Currently boatless an not liking it, somebody help!
Ok then. My friend just had A foot replaced on his 2000 Johnson for about 2500. I think yours is the same foot. He did not get the magnum since it was an insurance deal. So if 500 dollars is the difference I don't think it is to hard of a decision. I believe this was a problem for these motors.
One way to get a peek at your lower unit oil without draining it (i.e., you can do this with the boat on the water): Pull the fill cap. Take a long white zip tie and stick it down in there, dipstick-style. Some of the oil will cling to the "teeth" on the zip tie so you can at least check its color.
__________________ Minds are like parachutes....
25' Boston Whaler Revenge Hardtop Walkaround
17' Boston Whaler Menemsha, awaiting restoration
Went through that also - just MAKE SURE it is the LU before spending the $$$ for a new one. Hopefully you can find a good mechanic.......its worth the $$ diagnosing for sure....mine was a long slow failure = probably never quite right from day one....
__________________ 1st Cav Div Air Assault Infantry RVN
-Can Do........ and .......Carry On -
you get to a point where reliability and how old your motor is comes into play.
My 1999 ficht 200hp that has over 1500+ hours on blew a EMM. I decided to repower instead of investing more money into the old motor.
Nothing worse than getting it fixed and then something else major dies on it and its NOT covered under warrenty.
Good Luck in your decission.
ken (170 montauk / 22 hydrasports wa)
fichtion I am having the l/u on an 01 250 rebuilt now versus buying new.I was quoted anywhere from 3600 to 4350 for a new one versus 1500 to rebuild the one I have.The final price depends on what they are going to have to replace once they pull it apart.The other question is whether you trust your mechanic to do a good job.I was lucky in that preparing the boat for a trip to florida I found metal shavings on the upper magnet.I pulled the lower magnet then and found the pieces of bearing.I caught it before it destroyed the gears and all the bearings.I wound up sending the l/u to a shop in florida that I normally deal with because I trust they will repair it correctly.I couldn't find a local shop I felt confident in.I have around 700 hrs on my motors now and couldn't see spending 3500-4200 on a new lower to go on a motor that may be worth 5-6000.