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After searching THT for information on the Turbo Lube Hubs from Tie down, I haven't seen much in conversation about them.
They seemed to be a good thing to have and would hopefully resolve my slinging grease and frustration with buddy bearings.
I just picked up the Turbo Lube hubs and will put on this weekend, but what I am confused about is the type of lube to use.
Anyone experienced with these types of hubs?
The instructions are confusing. They show the following:
Go with what you think is best because what you think is best, is.
I've had um on my triple axel aluminum Loadmaster trailer for almost a year now and love um as they have been zero maintenance since I got um. When I ordered the trailer I asked the factory what upgrades they recommended and they said (1) Turbo Lube hubs, (2) all stainless hardware, (3) radial tires, and (3) ss brakes on all axels, and I got um all.
At first I was concerned about cracking or losing one of the plastic hubs and Loadmaster sent me an extra one. Then I asked what kind of oil I should put in if I had to refill one, and they said Royal Purple 40w (synthetic). When they said that I had the same questions you did so I asked them again and they said, Royal Purple 40w (synthetic). I now carry 2 extra quarts of Royal Purple 40w and a hugh syringe I got at a cattle feed store, modified with a 6" piece of surgical tubing on the end.
quote: I now carry 2 extra quarts of Royal Purple 40w and a hugh syringe I got at a cattle feed store, modified with a 6" piece of surgical tubing on the end.
40W and even 50W seem quite light to me, but if you use synthetic, it would probably be okay. A synthetic Lower Unit Gear Lube or any synthetic rear end lube (Amsoil, RedLine, I think even Mobil1 has one) in the 70 to 90W would be better. Racers swear by synthetic rear end lube !
Spend a quarter (okay a buck) and call Tie Down back and ask them.
Let us know what you think of those new hub-a-hub-a-hubs (I couln't resist )
What I want to know is what do the instruction's say about installing the seal? I have heard that you need to use something like Permatex #1 the harding stuff, in order to keep the fluid from running out.
Cute Sea Dad While many axels have zirk fittings to add grease, my hugh syringe is udderly necessary if you have the liquid Torbo Hubs. There is a very small oil fill hole to add oil to the bub and while a very small funnel will work, the oil can be added much faster with the syringe.
theoldwizard: Good idea. Or better yet for roberth to call Loadmaster (813-689-3096) as they've been installing Turbo Hubs on trailers for over a year now - lots of the guys on the SKA circuit who have Loadmaster trailers have them and they have a lot more miles on their trailers than I do mine. The guy who owns Loadmaster also travels the SKA circuit & he has a lot of practical experience with these new hubs.
[This message was edited by Cat-fishn' on 04-08-03 at 09:29 AM.]
Ok, great input and thanks for the feedback. Here is where I have ended up tonight.
I went to the local Wally World. They had the Pennzoil 100% synthetic 75W-90 Gear Lube for Lower Units in a 1 quart bottle with a long tapered snout. This fits perfectly in the hole, so it will be very easy to fill once I put these hubs on this weekend.
Warthog5, the instructions say to use the provided Permatex to seal both the oil fill plug and the screw on see thru dust cap. Says not to put any on the first threads and only needs a bead on 3/4 around. However, I will make sure it has enough fully around to make sure it get's a seal. Guess they don't want any permatex inside that would mix with the lube.
The instructions stated to prelube the axle shaft with a light coat of oil in order to facilitate installation of the rear seal. Other than that, it is straightforward.
I just talked to Tie-Down two weeks ago and they said the turbo hubs for disc brakes didn't exist yet. Only the non-brake style hubs. I don't see why there is any rocket-science needed to produce them? But they would be a good seller.
whoknows: I have the Turbo Lube brand, and I have disc brakes on all 3 axels. I specified the Turbo Lube hubs and disc brakes when I ordered the trailer.
On the Turbo-lube brand: Is there any noticable difference from the grease-style hubs? Obviously there is a clear end cap, oil and fill plug. I'm referring to the design of the hub etc. Curious why I cannot convert my grease hubs (with a little machine work) to a oil bath style.
BTW, the Turbo Lube brand is made by Tie Down Engineering.
who: I can't answer that question. However, I would guess that they make 2 styles - one for new installations and one for retrofits. The reason I say that is because I got 2 spares when I ordered my trailer and the manufacturer (Loadmaster) recommended I also get what he called the "Quick change SKA spares." I had no idea what he was talking about, but what they are is a spare with the hub & spindle, and Turbo Lube resivour all attached to the wheel.
With these quick change spares if you have a flat or your Turbo Lube resivour takes a dump, you don't change the Turbo Lube device and you don't take all the lug nuts off to change the tire, wheel, etc. On the back of the hub there is one big nut that holds the hub spindle on and all you have to do is remove this one nut and the whole assembly comes off - tire, wheel, Turbo Lube resivour, and hub. Then you unscrew the similar nut off of the back of your spare, stick the whole spare assembly back on where the bad wheel assembly came off, screw the one nut back on the hub spindle and you're ready to go. It really is a slick set-up and it's very easy to change out a tire.
The only downsides are (1)slight increase in initial trailer cost, (2)you have to carry a small plumbers pipe wrench (nut size on the back of the hub spindle is around 1 7/16), and (3) you have to crawl under the trailer to get at the hub spindle in order to remove and relpace the nut that holds the spindle on. I think this is what you were asking?
whoknows, not sure it would be worth it for the cost. These hubs are not that expensive, relative to other boat stuff. I got mine from boatfix.com at a substantial discount over retail store prices.
The part I would worry about is how you would seal the dustcap, but yet still see the level of oil. These dust caps come threaded. Not sure how you would machine the same threads, unless they are standard threads. Still, you would need to get the endcaps. Other than than, the fill hole is easy by drilling in the hub shaft, threading and installing a hex stud.
roberth, that was what I was looking for. I have not been impressed with the design of the Tie Down Engineering brakes I currently have on my trailer.
On the hubs I was thinking of taking out my "buddy" bearing guts, machine a 1/2" plexi window (to expoxy on the outboard side) and drill a 1/8" NPT plug hole for the hub. Insert oil and experiment. I need to check the price of these new hubs. Maybe all not naught.
There is another product I read about on the parker message board. It uses the old (standard) Hub. The board is down at the moment so I can't get the info. They use a glycol base lube that absorbs moisture (from condensation). Change it once a year. The clear cap has a plug foe filling and draining. You drill & tap 4 small holes on the end of the hub to hold the cap in place. I'll try to get a link tomorrow.
The system referred to by bruceap is the Liqua-Lube oil bath system. It is a retrofittable kit used for braked and non-braked hubs. You use your existing hubs. All the scoop is at: www.liqualube.com The system starts with a stainless sleeve and a carefully matched spring loaded, double lip seal, the secret to a leak proof system. The lube is a glycol base lube and does absorb moisture, however you should not have any there except what is in the trapped air inside the hub. Once installed, just check your lube level in the clear cap and know that the bearings are being properly lubed and go have fun.
Ok, I installed the Turbo Lube hubs this weekend. Overall, not a hard job at all. I had one problem where the center hole in the wheel was not large enought after I finished installing the hubs.
So, out comes my Carbide air grinder bit, and away I go. I only needed to remove about a 1/8" all around, so it took a few minutes per wheel, then I had to prime it so rust will be inhibited.
My axle was in excellent shape...nice a smooth with no rust on the back side. With all that slung grease, guess that protected it.
The hardest part of the job was not getting too much lube in the hub. Since the lube goes in the center of the hub, it takes a few minutes for it to go through the bearings and out to the level line on the cap. Also, with it jacked up, it was not level, so had to keep lowering, then raising and waiting a while in between for the lube to settle.
Overall, they look real neat and really like that I can see the level at a snap shot. If these stay sealed, I will be very happy not having to shoot grease all the time.
Turbo Lube? 
While many axels have zirk fittings to add grease, my hugh syringe is udderly necessary if you have the liquid Torbo Hubs. There is a very small oil fill hole to add oil to the bub and while a very small funnel will work, the oil can be added much faster with the syringe. 
