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Old 02-26-2017, 08:43 PM   #1
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Default Hewes Redfisher 21 reconfiguration 'More PICS added'

I realize this thread is ass backwards but I didn't have time to keep it up during the build so please bare with me! I'll finish adding pics to the thread this week...

Well it's a done deal... I don't expect everyone to be a fan of my reconfiguration and I admit that it will take me some time to adjust to it myself but I think I will really like it and adjust just fine over the next few weeks. I've wanted to do this to my boat since the first time I laid eyes on a Young Gulfshore model. I wasn't completely sure I could make it work on a Redfisher but with a lot of planning, testing and luck, I managed to pull it off. As usual with any of my projects, every thing from start to finish or shall I say from fit to finish was done by no one other than I. I'm posting from my phone so I can only post one pic at a time so I'll only post a couple pics now. I do have over 150 pics of all the details involved which I will get to the good ones eventually but here is what I started with and what she looks like now.
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Old 02-26-2017, 08:46 PM   #2
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This is what I ended up with... Seat is made and currently being upholstered...
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Old 02-26-2017, 08:47 PM   #3
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Another pic
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Old 02-27-2017, 04:55 AM   #4
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Pretty cool, I think. My buddy has an 18 Redfisher that's a porpoising machine. I'd be worried to do that on his, and it really doesn't fit our fishing style. But I could see it being a good fit for some people, and I'm sure moving some weight around would make it work fine.
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Old 03-15-2017, 03:04 PM   #5
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Well after two solid weekends of fishing trips, five props and the addition of a set of wedges on the motor I'm finally figuring out how the boat likes to be ran and getting more comfortable with the new set up. Prior to getting my seat back from my upholstery guy, I had my doubts about riding back there but now with my big seat, I love it! Vince over in Chalmette did a GREAT job! The wedges on the motor eliminated all low speed porposing which I just found out was likely due to the downward trim cutoff on the Zuke which my dealer told me probably didn't trim down quite as much as the Yami did. After running five different props she seems to like a 26x15 4 blade Solas ProL4. I'm pretty much plus 5 (mph/rpm) from cruising thru top end...4k/45mph thru 6.3k/68mph...I like it! My customers so far love it too...they have had nothing but good things to say about the way it came out. One of them even rode beside me on the back. He asked if he could and I said sure but I didn't know how it would act...well it hardly made a difference!

She is an awesome hardcore fishing machine with more fishable space than most 24' boats! She is two new power poles short of being the ultimate marsh fishing platform... Hopefully those will be added in the next month or two...
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Old 03-15-2017, 03:11 PM   #6
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Old 03-15-2017, 03:23 PM   #7
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Many more build pics coming...
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Old 03-15-2017, 03:30 PM   #8
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I have to say that is awesome. Can you run a bravo on a suzuki? If so try a 27 or 28 bravo xs (all holes plugged) or an fs. Both the fs and xs have a different barrel for bow lift. They have been much better all around on similar boats I have ran.

Heres a video of me testing a bravo 24xs on my 22 sterling. The bravo liked to be run high at top speed which i liked because it reduces the risk of hitting things

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Old 03-15-2017, 03:30 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas 17 View Post
Pretty cool, I think. My buddy has an 18 Redfisher that's a porpoising machine. I'd be worried to do that on his, and it really doesn't fit our fishing style. But I could see it being a good fit for some people, and I'm sure moving some weight around would make it work fine.
Your buddy just needs to learn how to properly use the trim tabs. No more porpoising. I owned one for five years. They will porpoise without using the tabs correctly.
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Old 03-15-2017, 07:11 PM   #10
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Well, I've never scene one like that....I kinda like it. Pretty cool that you customized it to fit your fishing style and what works in your area.
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Old 03-15-2017, 07:19 PM   #11
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I love redfisher 21s and I've liked the young setups. You combined them and made it your own. It's a true head turner.

Great job!
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Old 03-20-2017, 07:05 AM   #12
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Just getting an idea of how much room I had to play with and how high I wanted the helm... Also my initial cut lines on the console...
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Old 03-20-2017, 07:21 AM   #13
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Console cut, refit and patch...
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Old 03-20-2017, 07:33 AM   #14
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Console glass and more fitting. Wanted to make absolute sure I had room even though there was no turning back at this point! Notice the mock up I made of the deck onto a piece of plywood. This not only saved me lots of trips in and out of the boat but also save a lot of scuffing and stains that no doubt would have resulted in the process. It also made it a lot easier to frame up the console support which you'll see in the next set of pics...
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Old 03-20-2017, 07:46 AM   #15
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Leaning post/seat height fit and console frame build... My logic in my frame design was to attempt to mimic the general shape of the poling platform. Having the pipes come down to the floor in specific spots (especially the two front pipes) was the most important factor in order to get the rigging thru them.
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Old 03-20-2017, 07:53 AM   #16
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Completed frame work and floor patched/cut square where console was.
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:02 AM   #17
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Quote:
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Your buddy just needs to learn how to properly use the trim tabs. No more porpoising. I owned one for five years. They will porpoise without using the tabs correctly.
What a load of bull. If you have to use tabs to keep it from proposing with normal loads, there is a problem with weight distribution or hull design.
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:04 AM   #18
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Love seeing the pictures of how you thought out the design.
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:10 AM   #19
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Console fairing and floor cover made. All screws for floor cover and console panel are drilled and taped. If you look at the last console pic you will see the pieces of 1/4" plate mounted behind the glass lip. Clearance holes are drilled in the glass and the plate is drilled and taped 10-24 so that the screws can be ran in and out repeatedly without fear of stripping them and generally speaking I feel like it is just a much more secure way of mounting something rather than the alternative. I use this method wherever I can when mounting something which I know I'll have to remove or access.
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:12 AM   #20
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What a load of bull. If you have to use tabs to keep it from proposing with normal loads, there is a problem with weight distribution or hull design.
Agreed...tabs should generally only have to be used for adverse conditions...
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