Transom support on trailer, do bunks need moved?

[melindasrevenge]

On my new boat and trailer, the bunks dont extend all the way to the rear of the transom. They stop about 18 inches short. Is this a big deal? I have a Cobia 254 CC w/ twin F150's, so I am worried about all the motor weight on the unsupported transom during long tows. Should I bother moving the bunks all the way back? I am bringing the boat/trailer back to the dealer anyway next week for a warranty issue (boot stripe damaged on delivery, thats all), so I was going to have them do it, but just wanted to be prepared for the "it's fine, dont worry about it" line from the dealer. I was thinking about moving the winch stand forward but dont want any more tongue weight than I already have. I would appreciate any input from the trailer gurus. And yes, I'm going to buy a wheel, this site is awesome!

[savage]

Check the tongue weight before you move anything. How much length do you have at the front of the trailer now between the upright and the coupler?
The bunks should go to or just past the transom. Longer bunks might be the answer.

[warthog5]

the bunks dont extend all the way to the rear of the transom. They stop about 18 inches short. Is this a big deal?

YES. It tell's me you don't have the right trailer for the boat. It can devolope a hook in the hull. How far do the bunk's extend past the rear cross member on the trailer now?

Pix's would help.

[tnsmith]

Absolutely yes... you need longer bunks. Years ago, my dad pretty much ruined a hull because the bunks stopped too short. To keep the weight distributed correctly, just go with longer bunks... don't move the existing ones back.

[Brad1]

I have heard that the hull can develop a 'hook" (downward curve on the bottom of hull) if not properly supported. I have never seen it happen first hand though. Just the same, I always insist the bunks on my trailers support the transom.

A couple of comments regarding some of the previous replies you received:

You may have the properly sized trailer, it may just be a matter of it not being properly setup. Here's something I have noticed about some aluminum bunk trailers. The bunks are not the same on both ends. The distance from the bracket mounting holes, to the end of the bunk is sometimes different on one end of the bunk than the other end. In other words, the measurement from the front bracket, to the front end of the bunk might be different than the rear bracket to the rear end of the bunk (i.e. the front overhang is longer than the rear overhang). If that is the case on your trailer, it may be a simple matter of unbolting the bunks and turning them around.

Checking the tongue weight first. The axles position may be adjustable. If that's the case, get the bunk and relative boat position on the trailer setup correctly, then set the tongue weight by moving the axles forward or rearward.

[Parthery]

I would fill it up with gas, put your gear in it and go find the nearest truckstop and get it weighed. Truckstop scales are usually divided into 3 or 4 panels...you drive onto the scale...unhook the tow vehicle, then move it off the scale. If your axles are on one panel and your tongue jack is on the adjacent panel, the weight ticket will show your tongue weight separate from the rest of the weight. Add the two together to get your total weight.

Now, go find the plate welded to the front of your trailer and look to see if the GVWR of the trailer is more than your total weight. If the weight is higher, the trailer is too small, and - armed with the weight tickets, you can approach the dealer about putting the proper trailer under the boat. If the GVWR is greater than the total weight, then you are OK, but the boat needs to be repositioned or the bunks swapped out for longer ones.

[A Few Dollars]

Can you slide the bunks back 20"?

[warthog5]

I don't like to see a lot of overhang of the bunk's past the rear cross member. Yet you see it a lot.
It save's the trailer manufacture money, buy having shorter frame rail's.

The trailer I have now has the bunk's past the rear cross member by 3in.

[A Few Dollars]

I agree with warthog. I would like more support under my hull than the wood bunks.

These look like they hang off 2'.

[Brad1]

A Few Dollars - 3/22/2006 6:15 PM I agree with warthog. I would like more support under my hull than the wood bunks. These look like they hang off 2'.

To the point I was trying to make in my earlier reply, note the bunks on the picture of the trailer posted by A Few Dollars. You can see the adjustability built into the trailer bunks. Note the small amount of overhang in the front, vs. the larger amount in the rear. In the case of the original poster's trailer, it might be a simple matter of whomever bolted the bunks onto the trailer, did so opposite of the picture (i.e. longer overhang facing forward) and they merely just need turned around to be more like what is shown in the picture.

[melindasrevenge]

OK, I got a little excited. I measured it and the bunks are 8 (eight) inches short. Here is a pic. I called the dealer and they said they will "take a look". I'm sure it can be adjusted without getting a new trailer, but I will check my weights anyway to make sure they didnt sell me a small trailer. Should I be stressing over this 8 inch deficiency?

[jevans]

The bunks should stick out just past the transom. Anything less and you are not getting the support needed and the hull will hook.

[Brad1]

melindasrevenge - 3/22/2006 8:18 PM OK, Should I be stressing over this 8 inch deficiency?

Well, I don't know what to tell you. Not every guy can be as lucky as me I guess.

But about your trailer, post another pic zoomed out a bit further that shows more of the trailer setup, not just the "short comings" of the bunk.

[Girl Talk]

I'm gonna give you some first hand advice. Either slide the bunks back, get longer ones, or buy a bigger trailer. Correct the problem. I've been there. You may also want to scrutinize your dealer from here on.

[warthog5]

The bunks should stick out just past the transom.

I disagree. If they stick out farther and you have trim tab's that's a good way to bend a tab when you forget to retract them. Or if for some reason you need to work on the tab's you can't check their operation.


melindasrevenge You want the bunk's even with the transom.

[melindasrevenge]

Hey warthog, I shoulda had you with me when I bought the boat. I like the looks of your trailer, the way the support is under the end of the bunks instead of 3 feet forward like mine, and the bunks perfectly mated to the end of the boat. I hate buyers remorse! I think I'm going to push the dealer into giving me the next size trailer, which is the one I thought I was going to get anyway. When I researched Continental trailers, I figured I needed a 2560 model, which fits boats 25-26'. My boat is 25'4", but about 18" of that is the bow pulpit, so its really more like a 23-24' hull. Dealer sold me a 2360 model, which is supposed to fit 21-23' boats. Yeah, my fault as well, but I don't deal in boats/trailers for a living, thought the dealer would know what was right for the boat. WRONG! Is it possible that the 2560 model would be too big for the boat? I see a feet stompin pissin match coming soon! I would hate to see a 60k boat trashed after 10 years due to inadequate support from the trailer. I am convincing myself to settle for nothing less than the next size up trailer, at the dealers expense. Anyone with me?

PS*Just bought my first wheel, can't wait till it gets activated! The info on this site is well worth the money.

[Coconuts]

Last year my dealer sold me a new Whaler and trailer whose capacity barely could handle the boat and motor dry. Now add 60 gallons of fuel, 4 scuba tanks, scuba weights, fishing gear and a particularly bouncy stretch or RT 95. I made a pit stop for fuel and discovered the main frame rails behind the axle bent down about 6 inches. I took it to the dealer and he scratched his head and said "never seen that happen before, contact the trailer manufacturer". I did and they said "sorry, not our problem". I then called Boat US Insurance, they took a look at it and cut me a check for the new trailer. Last I heard they were considering taking my dealer to court to recoup the loss. I assumed I was going to be sold the correct capacity trailer. Buyer beware! By the way, recently got a quote from BOAT US Insurance for another boat and they did not show I had a claim.

[Brad1]

melindasrevenge - 3/22/2006 10:39 PM Hey warthog, I shoulda had you with me when I bought the boat. I like the looks of your trailer, the way the support is under the end of the bunks instead of 3 feet forward like mine, and the bunks perfectly mated to the end of the boat. I hate buyers remorse! I think I'm going to push the dealer into giving me the next size trailer, which is the one I thought I was going to get anyway. When I researched Continental trailers, I figured I needed a 2560 model, which fits boats 25-26'. My boat is 25'4", but about 18" of that is the bow pulpit, so its really more like a 23-24' hull. Dealer sold me a 2360 model, which is supposed to fit 21-23' boats. Yeah, my fault as well, but I don't deal in boats/trailers for a living, thought the dealer would know what was right for the boat. WRONG! Is it possible that the 2560 model would be too big for the boat? I see a feet stompin pissin match coming soon! I would hate to see a 60k boat trashed after 10 years due to inadequate support from the trailer. I am convincing myself to settle for nothing less than the next size up trailer, at the dealers expense. Anyone with me? PS*Just bought my first wheel, can't wait till it gets activated! The info on this site is well worth the money.

Your story reminds me of my experience when I bought my EZ Loader for my Grady White back in late '04.

I had my choice of 4 brands, Eagle (a custom trailer), EZ Loader (which I've two of before), Loadrite, or Nextrail (strictly aluminum). I use my boat in freshwater and I prefer steel because it doesn't flex as much as aluminum. So that ruled out Nextrail. I always wanted an Eagle custom trailer because I like the way they support the hull and they come from the factory already set up for the specific hull (that's why they call them custom). But the salesman informed me Eagle was out of business. I found out later that he was full of B.S., but at the time I believed him. So the choice came down to EZ Loader and Loadrite. I had owned EZ Loader twice and never had a problem with that brand, so I was leaning EZ Loader. They wanted to sale me a 5200 lb capacity trailer. Combined listed weight of my hull and motor comes to 4000 lb. Throw in almost 100 gallon of fuel, comes to 4600 lbs.Add on acouple hundred lbs for dual batteries, all accessories, full coolers, etc. Well, as you can see I'd be real close to the limit. Too close in my opinion. So I opted for a 5800 lb capacity EZ Loader galvanized (by the way, EZ Loader's capacities are carrying capacity, not combined capacity). Requested the dealer set the trailer up so that the boat was as low in the trailer as possible (aids in launch/retrieval (don't have to back in as far) and also for lower center of gravity when towing). Anyway, takes 5 weeks for my trailer order to come in. Dealership sets up my trailer. I arrive to take delivery.Guess what, trailer is NOT adjusted so boat sits low as possible in trailer. I point that out. Four hours of my time later, trailer is re-adjusted so boat is in lowest position. Problem now is (and this trailer has 4 bunks by the way), outer most edge of inside port bunk is right next to seawater intake strainer, and outer bunk can't go inward any more due to strake configuration. Sure the boat sat on the trailer perfectly at that point, but upon first retrieval, if it were to the right what-so-ever, it would be resting on the strainer. I took it anyway due to the fact that it was mid-November and I needed to get this boat under wraps for winter. Oh, but before I left to come home(and after shop guys were done with trailer) I discovered four untightened brackets on trailer, the tire pressure was low by a good bit, and lug nuts were not snug !!! I took care of that and headed on my way. Over the winter, I contacted Rick Norman of EZ Loader and explained my situation and sent him pics. He informed me that optional parts available from EZ Loader would resolve the issue with how my boat sits on the trailer. But why couldn't my dealership have done that leg work ahead of time and obtained the parts. I also find out over the winter that Eagle trailer is still in business. I order the parts (at my expense) and took the optional parts and my boat and trailer back to the dealership in the spring. Four hours later, they (the monkeys they call techs) got it right. Whew. I leave there and take the boat to where I'm keeping it for the season, which is 150 miles away. The next weekend, I launch the boat from the trailer for the first time ever.Later that day, when I go to retrieve the boat, I find out the winch cable is jammed (wrapped under itself). I've seen this happen before and I can assure you it didn't happen when I launched the boat. It came from the factory that way. It would've been nice if the dealership would've caught that before I left. But what should I expect from a bunch of monkeys that neglect to tighten brackets, check tire pressure, and lug nuts on a new trailer that a customer is taking delivery of.

The trailer's setup perfectly now, but no thanks to the dealership. Personally, I've yet to see a dealership that knows squat about how to properly setup a boat trailer. Trailer setup is a far cry from rocket science, isn't it ?

[warthog5]

Brad1 Your story sound's typical for a dealership. It's very common for a dealership to sell you a marginal trailer for your application. This keep's the overall price of the package down, but you will suffer down the road.

Don't assume the dealership know's more than you about trailer's just because they sell them. Get yourself educated. Go look at trailer's at a boat ramp with the boat on them.

I was in a parking lot the other week. I wished I had my camera. there was a boat sitting on a trailer and hooked to a truck. the person had gone in the store. I look at the main frame rail's on this trailer.

Where the crossmember [that the bunk bracket's bolted too] bolted to the main frame rail's the main frame rail's had 2in crack's along the web.

I mean come on. This is a huge accident waiting to happen, yet they just tow it down the road.

[JeffSpencer]

What about all of the boat lifts I see that do not support the transom? Tons and tons of them all around.....