*THE HULL TRUTH is the world's largest FREE network for the discussion of Boating & Fishing. Whether you're researching a new boat, or are a seasoned Captain, you'll find The Hull Truth Boating & Fishing Message Forum contains a wealth of information from Boaters and Sportfishermen around the world.
Welcome to the updated THT!
If you are having trouble signing in, please email feedback@thehulltruth.com with your username and we will help you. We thank you for your patience as we help you access the new site!
Random Quote: You can have it good, fast and cheap ... pick two!
Any opinions about which type of bilge pump is better - automatic pump with built in float switch, or non-automatic pump with separate float switch? Thanks!
just beware there are some "automatic" that have no float switch they just start every so many miniute and pump until the water is gone - this tyoe COULD drain a battery
- if you don't have this type i suggest the separate tye cause its easy to see if the float is screwed up.
I have two Rules, forward bilge is a 500 gph with built chip to check for water, it does the majority of the bilge pumping, rear rule is a 2000gph with float switch. stern is higher that keel so if the rear bilge goes on a red light will let me know.
I like the 500gph, very reliable, no problems.
I am partial to the Rule pumps and Sure-Bail switches.
I am frugal...well ok I'm a tightwad, I have a rule 2000gph that is about 12 years old as my backup pump. I took it apart, cleaned it and replaced the leads, lubed the o-ring and it still works like new.
And the Sure-Bail switches I like because they are housed in a cage of sorts, I don't worry about a piece of debris jamming the float, and it cuts down the effects of surge in the bilge. The leads are nice and long and tinned as well. At 20 bucks a piece they don't break the bank.
I've never tried the auto-pumps or built in switches, and probably won't.
I would prefer a separate pump/switch setup to a single automatic unit myself. Float switches are the single least reliable thing on the boat, but they are cheap to replace (make sure you's is where you can reach it). Automatic pumps, on the other hand, are a bit pricy and harder to replace. Stand alone bilge pumps are really one of the most dependable things on the boat. So just as a cost matter the separate switch/pump units make the most sense. You won't find yourself having to replace an expensive pump if it quits, just a cheap switch while keeping the old pump part.
As to flota switches, it was Dunk who turned me on to the blue Sure Bail float switches. Less than $25 and they far outlast the common Rule switchs that have a life expectancy about as long as individual laboratory fruit flies.
Oh, we have three bilge pumps, two 1,000 GPH and one 1,500 GPH Rules. The pump aft and the pump in abut the middle of the boat are both wired so I can run them manually or automatically and they both have indicator ligts that show when they are running. The third pump can only come on if we happen to be sinking.
After many years of working on the water, I have settled on a Lovett 1500 automatic in the bilge. Probably the best pump made. They hold up for many years even if abused.I have this backed up by a Rule 2000 with a sure bail switch.The switch for the Rule is mounted 4" higher. I have found the Rule automatics to be unreliable. I also have a cheap attwood 900 up front with a sure bail switch. I replace the attwood every couple of years. The sure bails will last quite a while. I also have manual switches and warning lights for all pumps just in case
I am in the same camp as everyone with one of each. I have Rule 500 with built-in switch in the low spot over my keel that keeps the bilge dry and I also have a 1000 rule with separate switch mounted a little higher. Both are wired for manual or automatic. Since I have an inboard, I also carry a hose and fitting to plumb my raw water intake to pump from the bilge.
Bilge Pump - Automatic or float switch? 
