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Random Quote: Lets sit down and see where we stand!
Well, i finally ponied up and installed my transducer. Here is the montrous hole that i initially cut:
Then i covered the ducer with 3m blue tape and put on 2 coats of mold release:
Then i braced it in place from below.
Here is a pic in the middle of the FGing:
And here it is FG'd in place:
The visqueen was just there to help me squeegee it out. Next is the scary part, getting the transducer to release. After that i will fair the bottom to match the transducer surface to decrease any turbulence. Hopefully the gods of chaos will not permanently bond that suck to the hull. Late.
d
"Vegetarian- an ancient Indian term for the following:
-Male- lives at home with mother and has no father, plays with dolls
-Female- has no husband"
Holding true to my word, I'm still confused. But this time it has to do with the style of ducer used. Did you not have the option of using a shoot through the hull ducer? And I assume that you're hoping like hell that you don't end up with any form of (dud, I just had it) stream of bubbles that are created from the leading edge of the hull. Which in turn would/could give you very poor readings.
Creative approach D; hope you can get it out. After using the water you might have to put the nuts on the threaded shaft and drive the ducer downwards; tolerances around everything will be minimal. If you have to use any persuasion, I'd drill a hole in a 2x4 for the cable to fit through, put the nuts on the shaft at the top and pound/hit the 2x4.
I'm intrigued; keep us posted with more pics and end results. By-the-way, nice looking work.
if you can, you may want the leading edge to stick down just a little bit (1/4" or so) from the hull. Perfectly flush might cause problems for you. Of course the back edge will need to be lower still, maybe 1/2".
Even on the keel like that I would think the ducer would have to be atleast 1/16" below the hulls surface to get a good reading at speed. I see now what you have done. Made a pocket that you install the ducer from the outside of the boat.
WOW!! Not to trash all that hard work and great job, but...
That seems like ALLOT of work to accomplish what you could have by simply buying a flsuh mount ducer like the one below. You just drill a ~2" hole, pull it thru with some sealant and your done. Whalla, flush mount ducer. It protrudes from the hull about 1/8".
Thanks for all of the responses. i am curious as to why some of you think that i should have the ducer stick out a little from the hull (would be no problemo to do). Hey Garett. i wanted the strongest ducer that i could get with a temp sensor (getting a furuno 1850), and this is what the guy sold me. When he brought out the high speed fairing block for it, i think that a purple turd formed in my pants. It's nice to have all that strength to see small numbers of salmon at depth, as well as canyon edges/fingers where those suckers hang out. And the temp sensor is a must for finding temp breaks when albie fishing. Hey Birdman, i really wanted the 1000 watt strength of this ducer (and am/was unaware of any thru hulls like that of the 1000 watt category). Lastly, i guess that i am just a stubborn ba$*@rd and once i get a project in my head, it's hard to let go. AND, the electronics guy at the place where i got it actually helped me come up with the idea (after i had made up my mind to get the ducer) instead of just pushing the fairing block on me. Thanks again for the responses and i hope to get more. i gotta go outta town for a week so the project will be on hold till then. Late.
d
"You can do anything if you're not smart enough to know otherwise"
[This message was edited by Psycho D on 09-26-03 at 02:05 AM.]
[This message was edited by Psycho D on 09-26-03 at 02:06 AM.]
Yah I know what you mean about the fairing block; I know that with my forward looking transducer w/fairing block it's like I've got a small boat stuck to the underside of the hull.
You know what I'd do if I were you in this circustance; I'd just put puddy as a sealer and try the boat with the tranducer installed and see what happens?
Maybe nothing and you'll be very satisfied. Or you may find you need to make a change. With using puddy it should give you some sort of temporary seal and yet if a change is necessary it will be easy to do. If no change is necessary it will still be easy to right.
Just remember the old adage, "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure".
I think I agree with Garett on this one. How about some 3M 101 as the temp sealer.
Preoccupation Cutting holes 'ain't nothing. It's fixing 'em. HeHe
It's like I told my brother about my Mako project.
If I screw it, just cut it out and start over. It's really not a big deal. It's just a mind set! HeHe
A buddy of mine brought me his boat to install electronic's on and bunch of other stuff too.
The boat was a '98 201 Proline. He's the 3rd owner. The boat was like factory. I drilled 68 holes in it. HeHe
transducer flush mount pics 
After using the water you might have to put the nuts on the threaded shaft and drive the ducer downwards; tolerances around everything will be minimal. If you have to use any persuasion, I'd drill a hole in a 2x4 for the cable to fit through, put the nuts on the shaft at the top and pound/hit the 2x4.
