help on a trailer

[us42449]

Never owned a trailer before--never even towed. Have a 21' deep v center consol with a 600# 4 stroke. Boat weighs 3000# dry plus the motor--I figure 4200#. Will be using an E-150 van. Will be in/out of salt water. Would like a good trailer that has good capabilities. Think I prefer rollers, lean toward aluminum, but would like to hear thoughts from some experienced boaters. Appreciate recomendations of manufacturers (mid-Atlantic location) too.

Want to get it right the first time!

Thanks in advance.

[welder]

Go down to the vendor's forum's and find , East Coast Trailers , I here there some good guy's with some good stuff.

Tandem axle , led lights , aluminum trailer , bunks not roller's [ my choice ] electric over hyd. disk breaks and don't for get the spair tire and mount , guide rails on the trailer would also be good.

[cowdogs]

I just got my new trailer from Steve. Very happy. He is the vendor on this forum that welder is referring to.

Steve has a great product, great prices, and great service, but beyond that, Steve seems to have unlimited patience for "one more question about that trailer I am thinking about buying".

Give him a try. You won't be sorry.

Sean

[us42449]

Welder,

Thanks for your post. Can you tell me why you prefer bunks? Purely ignorant question. This boat seems pretty strongly built and point loading on the rollers shouldn't be a problem, should it?

[Hayzus]

Even the strongest boats are designed for spread loads over the whole bottom of the hull, not just the points for the rollers. Plus then you take into account the beating that the hull *could* take on some rough roads, and I prefer bunks myself. Just my .02 and my preference though.

[81 CC SEAOX 23']

Steve @ East Coast Trailers I own a Load Master from them.

Excellant Company
Great Products
Great Service
What more do you need?

http://www.thehulltruth.com/forums/f...iew.asp?fid=13 Click here for his FORUM!

[jloomis]

I just got a 7000lb Loadmaster aluminum bunk trailer with all the goodies (22' GW). Don't forget the tortion suspension axels and disk brakes. What a difference a good trailer makes!!

[catfishhunter]

Some "must haves" in my book:

1) Aluminum frame for weight and corrosion resistance

2) bunks if your ramp will allow you to submerge the trailer most of the way. Rollers are constantly breaking or rusting off.

3) a nice two speed winch.

4) posilube or equivalent hubs. Don't settle for bearing buddies, and I hear the oil bath hubs are problematic.

5) torsion axles will keep you from having to replace rusted out running gear every few years.

6) vertical guide bars to help with the loading/unloading.

7) stainless hardware (usually an extra cost item, but worthwhile)

8) attachment points for your tiedown strap.

9) a front tie down for safety and to keep the boat from hobby horsing

10) make sure your trailer tires are rated for well in excess of what you think your rig weighs. Running tires at max capacity is a sure way to have blow outs.

11) a spare tire and a proper mount. Running a tandem trailer on 3 wheels isn't really an option.

12) I don't have brakes, but if I were you I'd buck up and buy the nice stainless ones.

As far as brands go, people on the Florida Sportsman site rave about their Rolls Axle trailers, but I hear they are pricey. I bought an Ace trailer here in Tampa, and I am pretty sure they deliver nationally. The Ace is very comparable to a Loadmaster as far as features and design. I am sure there are lots of equivalent brands available in your area, just be sure to get the upgrades you need.

[rwidman]

Go to your local ramps and see which type (roller or bunk) trailer most people there are using. Then ask them how they like their choice. Bunks vs rollers seems to be a regional thing. A quality roller trailer will not damage your boat (unless the manufacturer specifies only a roller trailer) and modern poly rollers do not require a lot of maintenance, rust or break off.

[cregan]

if you're towing more than just a few miles back and forth to the neighborhood ramp I would strongly recommend radial tires. You can upgrade from the bias ply for about $40 a tire and it's well worth it. Smoother, more efficient tires. You'll get your money back in fuel savings within a couple of years or quicker depending on how much you tow per year.

[solarfry]

us42449 - 2/6/2006 11:31 PM

Never owned a trailer before--never even towed. Have a 21' deep v center consol with a 600# 4 stroke. Boat weighs 3000# dry plus the motor--I figure 4200#. Will be using an E-150 van. snip!.

Want to get it right the first time!

Thanks in advance.

You need a trailer capable of 6000#. Add fuel and equipment to your number plus 15% safety margin. I have a light 21' and have a 6k # trailer.

I hate rollers. they are always rusted out and never want to roll.

[rwidman]

solarfry - 2/7/2006 3:49 PM

I hate rollers. they are always rusted out and never want to roll.

The new poly rollers don't rust and their construction insures that they will roll freely.

[Fireman Bill]

I am having a nightmare with my boat and trailer that is in part weight related. learn the definitions of trailer weight, trailer capacity, gvwr of a trailer. Figure out the towing capacity of your truck. I think you are under estimating the amount of what you will be towing. The gvwr is everything you are towing ;the boat, trailer and all the junk in it. This number gets big in a hurry. When the boat builder says the boat weighs 3000 lbs. Ask what exactly he weighed or if he actually weigh it. The manufacturer of my boat claimed that my boat weighs 2500 lbs. I recently weighed it and it weighs 1000 lbs more. It is full of water but that is another story. When I asked how they determined the weight, the factory rep. said the owner probably guessed at the weight. The placard on the trailer has lots of important info, starting with the trailer weight itself. When I weighed all my equipment I found that the trailer weighs 1460 lbs. not the 900 lbs. the manufacturer claims on the placard. He also said that the weight of the trailer was an estimate. The increased trailer weight negatively impacts the capacity of the trailer if the gvwr remains the same.

I believe that you will need a tandem axle trailer rated with a trailer capacity of 6000 lbs. That trailer will weigh around 1000 lbs. Your truck will need to be rated to tow around 7000 lbs.

As for your weight calculations I think you are low here are my estimates;


3000 lbs. for hull ,console internal fuel tanks (assuming it really weighs what they say)
500 lbs. for fuel @6.25 lbs. per gallon x 80 gallons
600 lbs.for motor ( probably dry weight excluding prop and fluids)
120 lbs. for two batteries
100 lbs wiring, rigging, hoses, filters, radios, depth recorder, steering helm, controls
300 lbs. tools,parts, anchor, ground tackle life jackets, fishing stuff ,coolers, cast net , tackle, first aid equip, spare prop etc.
100 lbs ice, bait, drinks food
50 lbs spare tire mounted on trailer frame
??? lbs. T top, Seats, boat cushions, dive gear
I come up with 4770 plus the weight of T top, seats cushions, dive gear.

Make sure the arithmatic works on all the trailer components. for example If the stated gvwr of the trailer is 7000 lbs make sure the coupler is rated at 7000 lbs. Make sure the total capacity of the four tires is at least equal to the trailers gvwr. You are only as strong as your weakest link. make sure the combined axle capacities are at least equal to the trailer capacity plus the weight of the trailer. Make sure your trailer hitch and all the parts attached to your truck are of proper capacitiy

I agree that an aluminum trailer with stainless hardware is the only way to go. Bunks also, rollers in my opinion are useless. Brakes in Florida are mandatory they do not last but you have to start with them anyway. I have never had success with trailer brakes but some people have, buy the best you can afford. I also agree with getting a 2 speed winch. Get a big one. The cost differental is not real big and if you ever have to actually winch the boat onto the trailer because your motor died, it aint going to happen with a small one. I have a 2600 lb winch on my trailer and it does a good job. Make sure the winch has the heavy gauge strap (no cable). There are a couple sizes of straps, go heavy.

Finally, put an emergency trailer kit in your truck. fix a flat stuff, spare hub, grease gun, spare strap and winch handle,hand cleaner etc.make sure you have a good socket and breaker bar to get the lug nuts loose.

Have fun and happy towing