New 25' Contender - trim tabs only work with one motor - The Hull Truth

FreeByrd · 07-14-2003, 03:04 PM

Discovered something odd this weekend on my first fishing trip on the new 25' Contender. My trim tabs (Lenco) only work with one of my motors. I don't remember now if it was the Port or Starboard engine, but when the ignition key was turned off, the tabs automatically retracted which seemed like a good thing at first, until I realized that I couldn't use the tabs at all with just the other motor running. Found this out when trolling for walleye on Lake Erie yesterday. I would like to be able to use the tabs when trolling, but this isn't a huge issue.

However it got me thinking that if I ever have to make a long run on one engine and it was the one that doesn't allow the trim tabs to work - that wouldn't be good. My dealer is looking into it this week, but I wanted to see what other Contender owners have done?
Thanks
Steve Carlson

wishin4fishin · 07-14-2003, 03:34 PM

you will probably find the same results with the engine guages. (tach on one and fuel mgmt on the other). How would you do it - one tab per engine?? you want some way to break the conection and the key is the best way.

Clinton

edk · 07-14-2003, 05:22 PM

The engine doesn't need to be running for the tabs to work - you just need the switch in the "on" position. Mine are the same way.

Ed

Harry Brosofsky · 07-14-2003, 05:36 PM

Best bet is to wire the tabs to a separate terminal so they can be used at all times...this will allow them to be used with either engine on and also to be retracted prior to hauling the boat (assuming you trailer the boat) regardless of which engine you are using.

Somethin-Fishey · 07-14-2003, 06:25 PM

Have them wire each switch to a relay and common wire each relay to the tab switches and auto-retract that way you don't criss-cross the power to each motor and you share the same power to the tabs and auto-retract and all you have to do is have either switch on and the tabs will function and when BOTH switches are off they will auto retract.

William
1900CC Key West W/ 115 Yammie 4 stroke
Biggest boat that would fit in my garage!

FreeByrd · 07-14-2003, 08:46 PM

Thanks for the replies so far - couple followup questions guys...

Wishin4fishin,
Each engine has it's own tach, but you are correct about thge fuel management guage. That is irritating too. I'm not an electrician but I expect to be able to use the features I paid for - trim tabs, fuel management, etc. when trolling on one engine and the tabs for sure if I have to make a long run with one engine.

Edk,
Is there any "problem" with leaving the switch in the "on" position while that engine is not running? If not this seems to be the easiest thing to do to me - but I don't want to screw something up? Can't see why it would be a problem but just curious.

Harry,
That was my original thought but having the tabs retract automatically is a good thing with the way my trailer fits.

Something-Fishey,
This sounds like the best situation and I would think a marine electrician could do this relatively easily. Would it be possible for the fuel management system to work with either engine also doing something similar with the wiring? Original thought there was to interface Raymarine GPS L760 to the fuel management but that didn't work and reading some of the posts lately, it is apparently difficult to make that work.

I appreciate the feedback and look forward to anything further that can be shared by those with more electrical knowledge.

Thanks!
Steve

My Turn · 07-14-2003, 08:56 PM

Hi Steve,

I was on your boat at south shore when they were rigging the electronics. We talked about the yamaha fuel management and how I had it on my old boat (Grady Islander). Its suprising to me that 7 years later yamaha still wires the fuel management to work off only 1 engine. The fix is very simple. First, disconnect the power for the fuel management gauge, then have south shore make up a wire harness with 2 wires each connected to the anodes of 5 watt power diodes, connect those 2 wires to the "key on" power of each engine. Connect the cathodes of both diodes together and power the fuel management from this connection. Now, whichever egine is "on" will power the fuel management, and when one engine is on and the other is off, there will be no cross feed of power due to the diodes.

I ran my Grady wired like this for 7 years with no problems.

A similar solution could be applied to your trim tab problem.

edk · 07-14-2003, 09:37 PM

quote:Originally posted by FreeByrd:

Edk,
Is there any "problem" with leaving the switch in the "on" position while that engine is not running? If not this seems to be the easiest thing to do to me - but I don't want to screw something up? Can't see why it would be a problem but just curious.

Thanks!
Steve

I don't believe that there would be any problem. With the older Yamaha gauges the hour meter would advance with the ignition in the on position even though the motor was not running. Now the hour meter is integrated with the tach that's not a problem any more.

If you are running on one motor, you should tilt the non-running motor out of the water as you can get water sucked back up into the motor as there is no back pressure when the motor is not running. I don't know if that's likely to happen at trolling speeds, but it's something to be aware of.

Ed

Somethin-Fishey · 07-15-2003, 04:22 AM

quote:Originally posted by FreeByrd:
Thanks for the replies so far - couple followup questions guys...

Edk,
Is there any "problem" with leaving the switch in the "on" position while that engine is not running? If not this seems to be the easiest thing to do to me - but I don't want to screw something up? Can't see why it would be a problem but just curious.

I appreciate the feedback and look forward to anything further that can be shared by those with more electrical knowledge.

Thanks!
Steve

Steve,
DON'T do it. If you put the key in the "ON" position several things hapen.
1. Your hour meter icks away.
2. On these new engines, just like your car, the fuel pump runs when the key is "ON" to get ready to start. If you take the cover off when you go to "ON" you can hear it. It does cycle on pressure but I can't imagine that it is good for it.
3. The ECM and other comuter items for the motor are running, this is the one I'm not sure about, but again probably not good.

As far as wiring, the post about the diodes is good also, but the relays are easier to mount and probably more rugged and no soldering. Either way is FINE, just remember to isolate power from each motor so it can't flow from port to starboard and ice-versa. Basically you don't want to cross connect your batteries thru a 20ga wire attached to your key switch

William
1900CC Key West W/ 115 Yammie 4 stroke
Biggest boat that would fit in my garage!

FreeByrd · 07-15-2003, 11:48 AM

Thanks for all the replies!
Steve