Trailer Surge Breaks

[big money]

Just bought a used 2yr old loadmaster with surge brakes. Got to checking things out and discovered that the brake system was bone dry, so I filled it with brake fluid. Now, the breaks on the front axle are sticking and it smells like it is burning up. Since the boat only weighs 2500 lbs, I was thinking of just removing the brakes all together....any advice? I have already unhooked the brake line from the front of the trailer to remove the pressure so that I could get home from fishing.

Thanks

[pschwart00]

Seeing you are from Baton Rouge where it is rather flat, as long as your tow vehcile isn't, let's say, and s-10. I would just remove the brakes - especially if you will be fishing saltwater.
Now if you plan on towing all over the place, then may want to re-consider.

[Major Woods]

Did you bleed the system?
Did you check to make sure the shoes were extending and retracting when the coupler was activated/released by hand?

[big money]

Thanks, the tow vehicle is a f-150 4x4, so that is not really an issue. How hard is it to remove the brakes? The system is a Tie Down brake system and looks like drum brakes. Also, I am relatively mechanically inclined, so I am just looking for pointers or pitfalls to avoid. Thanks.

[pschwart00]

I guess you have two options if you don't want to keep the brakes...
One would be two just back of the drumb using the tension setting so they should never engage.
Two - would be to replace your drumb brakes by just going out and buying new hubs for your axle (rough cost would be $~60/side)

[lawaia]

big money - If you "unhooked the brake line from the front of the trailer to remove the pressure so that I could get home from fishing." and were able to get home without the brakes dragging as evidenced by no excessive heating of the drums/wheels, then IMHO you don't need to do anything else. Disconnecting the brake line prevents the actuator from ever moving the brake shoes against the drum, so if they're not already touching, they never will, hence no need to do anything more.

Now if the wheels still drag or heat up with the tubing from the actuator disconnected, then the wheel cylinders are frozen in the 'out' position and you'll have to go into the wheel brake assembly and as a minimum back off on the adjustment as pschwart00 says, but in my experience, you'll more than likely also have to replace the wheel cylinders if you want the brakes to work, or if you've decided you won't use the brakes, then just remove the shoes and springs and you're done.

Your decision as to whether to go without brakes on the trailer. Good luck.

[samblate]

I would find out what the state's legal requirements are for trailer brakes -- the point at which additional weight requires brakes. Otherwise, if you are in an accident with no brakes, you could be in big trouble, especially if there is personal injury.

[HOTSPOT]

I would fix the problem. Brakes on a trailer are worth their weight in gold.

Got to the VENDOR forums and look up East Coast Trailers, Steve's advice is invaluable.