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im looking to start a winter project i want to make a tackle center to go behind port chair on 31 rampage. i want to be able to store all my tuna and shark lures ,hooks,my terminal tackle and differant size weights in it.i really need a way to keep the weights in size order right now i have them in 5 gallon bucket and hate searching for sizes i need. i keep everything on the boats as somtimes you never know what you need.im tired of having everything rolling around and not organized. anyone have any ideas or pictures of what they have on their boats.thanksfor any help
SUGGESTION: my tackle bin has DRAWERS rather than Plano-style boxes...allows access to EVERYTHING in there w/ONE hand...Plano-boxes require two hands and place to put them while gettin' what you're gettin'...then ya gotta put the box back...JMHO, make it w/drawers...w/stops, of course... ...
try checking out one of those company pages that design them, thats what i did, they also sell the draws and doors, making the dyi job alot easier. good luck
i wasnt sure if i was going to use plastic board or plywood with fomica over it.alot cheaper with plywood but im leaning towards plastic think it will last longer.thats a great idea snakeeyes didn't know they sold doors and draws ill check them out.thanks reelapealin i thinking of just doing drawers on the cabinet was also thinking of making a cutting board on top of cabinet not sure if it will make a bigger mess than its worth.
what exactly is divenacell or kledgecell and where can you find it? is it easy to work with? i agree looking at starboard its expensive,if they make the tackle station for you it gets real expensive. i figured it would be a good winter project but i dont want to break the bank to build it as i already have other projects to do on the boat.
kledgfecell is a styrafoam type sheet that is designed to have fiberglass and resin put over it to stregthen. for this application, it would be hard to beat 1/2" cabinet grade plywood, and 2 coats of plane ole polyester resin to seal eyerthing.
use it like glue to assemble the pieces before nailing or screwing (all stainless), then coat the entire surface with resin, then a layer of 1 1/2 oz glas matt, then sand for a smooth finish and paint.
you can get as detailed as you like, and still be strong, and as long as you seal it good, it will last indefinately.
you may also consider drawers that pull out, stay in place, and have the plastic trays inside. best of both worlds. you pull out the drawer, it holds the plastic tray in place, yet if you want to take it with you, just lift it out.
I would not use cabinet grade plywood. It doesn't have exterior type glue in it. It will not pass the freeze/boil test. [it will delaminate] I've tested it. A little resign smeared over it will do nothing.
If you want to build it from plywood use a marine plywood. [Not PT either] Then a layer of 4 or 6oz glass over it. If you use Fir the glass will stop it from checking.
If your going to use plywood you will want to build the radius corner's out of some thick solid stock. Square corner's will look like a dumb 'Ol Dog box.
Divenacell and Kledgecell are a PVC foam. They are not in the same class as styrafoam.
You can heat form it with a heat gun.
I built a female plywood box, 3 sides, 1" returns in the front, and top, radiused the inside corners with putty, sand real smooth, resined the inside to seal it, sprayed with mold release, and then took it to a local fiberglass bait tank maker. He sprayed the inside completely with gel coat and then chopper gun glass to about 3/16 inch thick. He charged me about $150 to gel coat and chopper gun it. Trying to lay glass in the radiused corners onto three flat surfaces is a real pain, believe me. Chopper gun is the only way to go.
I purchased three of the ready made tackle lockers that hold 4 plano boxes from Cabela's and mounted them to a starboard face plate that fastened to the fiberglass box. Stainless piano hinge and smoked lexan front cover with lock and magnet door holders completed the build. Total investment was about $450 as the tackle lockers were about $100 each. Came out looking real nice. But remember the gel coat finish is only as smooth as the surface of your mold.
thanks for your help guys i think im going with the plywood with the fiberglass over it just have to figure out my measurments for the station think ill start it right after christmas ill let you guys know how i make out
There's a book you might want to pick up from Amazon.com. It has some usefull imfo in it.
Boat Joinery & Cabinetmaking Simplified (Paper******
by Fred P. Bingham
warthog
explain to me in small words so I can understand how a cabinet grade plywood carcass sealed with 2 coats of resin and 1 1/2 ounces of glass equates to slapping on some resin, and how exactly will the glue in the plywood delaminate, when its encapsulated and sealed from the elements. Besides, its not a hull submerged in water, so you dont have to worry about osmosis. Also corners do not have to be solid stock, you can easily just laminate another layer of wood in the corners, if you want your radius's more than you can achieve from just the wood thickness. only thing you need to worry about in that aplications, is watch your fastner placement, so as not to interfere with shaping process.
Sorry my Bad. As my eye's scanned I only caught "then coat the entire surface with resin".
Still there will be perforation's somewhere in the cabinet to attach something. Cabinet grade plywood is almosyt as expensive as Marine ply.
The boil/freeze test involves taking a sample of the plywood say 3inX3in and boiling it in water, then take it out and put it in the freezer for 1 1/2hr's, then boil and freeze again.
The marine ply will handle this the cabinet grade plywood will not. This is the extreme, but if your spending money and time to build something use the better material's.
As to using mat. That I would not do over plywood. There will be more fairing and more weight. The strength you don't need, it's in the plywood. 6oz cloth and fill the weve will be plenty to encapulate it.
I can take a piece of the plain old fir plywood, and coat it with resin, lay on a cheap piece of 1 1/2 oz mat, an another thin layer of resin, and you can boil and freeze to your hearts desire, and the glue wont let go.
as for the perforations, there shouldnt be, if done correctly. you build it, using all your penetrating fastners, then you lay up your glass.
I am pretty sure marine grade plywood is designed for use without glass and resin, although it definately is compatible with glass and resin
But I will say, that it definately wouldnt hurt to use marine grade plywood.
one thing I dont really understand...
if you are using marine grade plywood, why do you need 6 oz mat?
building a tackle station 
