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When I first got my new boat, I made sure to read all the manuals. I try to learn all I can and follow recomendations.
In the manual for my motor, 2002 Mercury Saltwater series (carbureted), it clearly states on page 64 that you can run the engine while flushing with a hose hooked up to the flush port on the engine. So, for the first few times I flushed the engine, I followed the instructions in the manual. Then I read some posts here on the Hull Truth about damaging the impeller on the water pump if flushing like this. After posting a question about flushing, I was advised not to run the engine with the hose on the flush port and to get a set of muffs if I wanted to run the engine. I did by the muffs.
I posted another question a few weeks ago. Seems my new engine over heats when run at idle. Again the members provided me with good advice. "Take it to your dealer to have it checked". THis should have been common sense but I thought it may have something to do with the motor still being in the break-in period.
I finally had a chance to take it in to the dealer. The problem was the water pump impeller. It had been damaged while running my engine and flushing through the flush port . Even the dealer told me that that was the cause and not to run it without muffs.
I told the dealer that the Mercury owners manual says it’s OK to run the engine while flushing through the port. The dealer tried to get Mercury to pay for the repair. Mercury responded that I must have run it "dry" or had too much pressure on my water hose. They declined to cover the repair.
This experience has cost me over $100. I may try again to get Mercury to cover the cost. I don't know if it is worth the stress to fight it. It is kinda crappy when you follow the owners manual and it causes damage and the manufacturer won't cover the repair.:mad:
I always flush my 200 EFI's on the large square port muffs, I feel leting the engines warm up as well as flushing the pump its self, does a better job, several mechanics have agreed, I would let your dealer haggle with Merc, its there word and there relationship with Merc.
Thanks for the heads up c5. I should be getting a new Merc 150 carb'ed saltwater soon and was excited about the flushing port, until I read your post. I'll stick with the muffs as well.
My computer does this sometimes.. sorry here's the point
I often wondered about the flush ports connections and how this could get to the water pump. I will definitely read my manual tonight. I thought maybe that fitting was supposed to be used with the engine off to maybe flush the powerhead jacket.
AND OFCOURSE MERC has to pay for this! Don't let them get away with this one. This is the tip of an iceberg for them if the manual really says to run with the waterpump dry.
For penance I suggest they be required pay all claims and then to wear those ear muffs low and tight on the very large cajonnes they have.
See post on Yamaha flush port below (maybe above - anyway its on this page.
They say the Yanmmie manual says definitely to leave the motor off when using the flush port.
Well, I have something to do this weekend. Read my Evinrude manual - I actually don't even know if I have a flush port - I think there probably is. All I've ever used is the muffs.
I used to run my 92 Rude 150 with the hose in the flushing port, no muffs. One thing that wasn't mentioned. Was the motor run at any speed higher than idle? A lot of motors get torn up by running in neutral at high speed - whether on the muffs, or quickly warming it up when launching off a trailer.
To this date, it amazes me to see people start their engines with the boat on the trailer, and rev them up like that.
On muffs, or flushing ports, it seems that all you want to do is get the parts moving and warm to help flush salt and sediment. Racing the motor in neutral can cook an impellor if the pump gets starved for water flow.
Good luck with this one. They could always claim abuse if the manual states to run it at idle. There's no way to prove you ran it at idle. A toasted impeller can easily be the result of abuse and they can claim that - you'll be hard pressed to prove otherwise.
By the way, It's been my experience that mercs do not have the best water pumps in the world. They're not too hard to change, so I would learn how to do it myself. It just takes a little juggling motion to get the foot back on at times. A kit is about $35. An impellor only is about $10. I change mine on my old Mercruiser every spring, before the fishing season starts. It's about a 2-3 hour job, requiring simple hand tools and a set of wood sawhorses, or a bench with a slot, to set the foot on while you work on it. I change my lower gear oil at the same time.
The owners manual does state that you can run the engine "at idle". Funny thing is I purchased a Service Manual (after the damage was done) and it clearly states "Do Not Run Engine while flushing via the flush port..."
I try to take good care of the things I have. I certainly have not abused my engine. (At least I do not think so.) Tidester is right. I would be hard pressed to prove that I did not do something (other than running it a few minutes at idle) to cause the impeller to burn up. While I think the owners manual needs to be more detailed about the posibility of damage, I do understand Merc's side.
The boat sits for 3-4 weeks at a time without being run. One of the reasons I like to run the engine while flushing is not just to flush the engine after use, but to check and make sure the engine is working OK before hauling the boat to the Gulf or Lake, etc. While I do have good quality muffs, I wonder if I wouldn't be better off slipping an 80 gal trash can under the engine and filling it with water. This would give back pressure to the exaust and be like it was "on the water". [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_confused.gif[/img]
The impeller was $26.45 not too bad. What hurt was the hour of labor at $75.00. Between my dad and me, I am sure we could replace the impeller when it need's it again. (Hopefully not for the standard 100 hours. [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif[/img]) What I would worry about in doing it myself, if later something else happens to the engine while under waranty, would the claim be refused cause I worked on the motor myself?
Ahoy C5,
Let me first state that I have a pair of Optimax engines and I am pleased with them. However I am still not happy with the posture of Mercury when it comes to resolving issues such as yours, the Bravo III problem and other Opti problems.
When I purchased this pair of engines as "new non- current" last year, I spent the extra money to obtain the professional service manual for these engines. This is the service trade edition that is used by Merc service personnel. Even in this manual it clearly states that it is acceptable to flush the engines using the cowl flush plug and furthermore that the engine may be stopped OR run at idle speed during flushing. I have always used flush cups attached to the lower unit but the manual states that your method is supposed to be acceptable. fortuneately for you the water pump wasn't too expensive but the main point to this story is that it should be Mercs responsibility to correct the problem and incur the costs. If I were you I would first ask politely that they cover the expenses and point out their written language regarding flushing. If they refuse I would then DEMAND that they cover the costs with the trheat of court action. After all if the manual states a certain procedure and you followed it to the T, then mercury is guilty of misrepresenting the procedures in the manuals. I like my Optis and have always been pleased with other Merc products in the past. What really bothers me is the posture that Merc assumes when it comes to resolving a problem. Just another fat cat corporation sticking it to the consumer! Because of this I doubt that I will ever purchase another Merc product. The entire boating industry gets away with murder because there are no clear regulations to protect the consumer on these high dollar purchases. The entire industry knows how to skirt the laws by riding a fine grey line. DO NOT sit back and take it! Force Mercury to accept responsibility for THEIR errors.
Went to the Mercury Marine web site to get their position on conflicts between owner's manual procedures and service manual procedures. This is a big deal, because if they supply false information, they are responsible. They do not have any e-mail addresses listed, but I will shoot a letter off to them next week via snail mail.
As a consumer, who is considering the purchase of a Mercury Marine product, I will demand to know their position on this issue as well as customer service in general. If they are wishy washy about this, or refuse to state policy in your favor, then I know where they stand and will spend my money elsewhere when it is time to repower.
The address for them is :
Mercury Marine
W6250 W. Pioneer Road
P.O. Box 1939
Fond du Lac, WI 54936-1939
I'd recommend that other THT board members drop Mercury a little nasty gram, noting how their lack of customer service is getting around many internet consumer forums and how that is going to negatively affect their sales in the future. This is especially true if they do not get their customer service committments straight soon! Get the word processors going, folks. We have to send a message to these companies that the world is changing and they have to keep customer focus in line to survive.
Me too. My manual states on page 52 "engine can be stopped or running at idle speed when flushing th colling system. Do not flush engin using a watee system that exceeds 45psi" And, just like you I bought the service manual, and it says dont start the engine on the hose ?? go figure?! Maybe you sucked a plastic bag and thats what did it. Because, I do run mine on the hose, under 1000 rpm, and when i changed my water impeller a few monthes ago, it looked like new. Bill
On my 2002 Merc. 90 Saltwater, my mechanic stated that it is absolutely NOT necessary to run the motor if you have a flush attachment (not muffs). I run in salt water only, and flush mine after every fishing trip. After 120 hours, I did fry my impellar, but the 8 lbs. of sand from a sand bar did that job.
The manual clearly states that it is not necessary to run the motor -- I guess the water gets to where it needs to go.
I have a 99 Optimax with low hours. The big problem I have with this engine is overheating. I have been back three times and I hear from the mechanics that this is the nr 1 problem with Optimax. I am sick of this engine.It took me 5 hours to get back to the dock the last trip.
Damaged water pump impeller 
