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Old 10-22-2005, 10:17 AM
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Default The Hull Truth about Shrink Wrapping

This time of the year there are always a lot of questions regarding the use and cost of shrink wrap vs tarps. I owned a shrink wrap company in New England (Fall River MA to Newport RI) for 4 years before I moved South. My partner still runs the company 10 years later. We wrapped over a 100 boats a year early on and he does over 150 year now. Here is my view on the benefits and downfalls of shrink wrapping.

The first issue to discuss is always the cost. If you are interested in getting a boat shrink wrapped, find an independent guy that does it vs going through a marina or boat dealer. We wrapped boats for several marinas and I can tell you that they mark up the cost to you at least 50-75%. There is no doubt that a tarp installed by an owner is the cheapest route. Even if you only get one season out of a poly tarp it will be cheaper than shrink wrapping.

The issue of mold and moisture problems on a shrunk boat are solely due to the moisture content in the boat the day it was wrapped. The most important part of the job is to ensure that on the day your boat is getting wrapped it is as dry as possible. Any water in the bilges or general dampness in the boat will just turn into it's own weather sytem under the wrap for the entire winter, it's like a terrarium. Unfortunately far too many boats are wrapped under less than ideal conditions and trust me the water in that boat the day it is wrapped will cause you problems. No matter how many vents are installed the original moisture is going to cause you problems. Basically it will "rain" inside your boat with the normal cycle of a warm day and cooling nights. It is the boat owner's job to make sure the boat is 100% dry before you let anyone wrap it and that is the challenge to ensure a dry interior throughout the winter.

Another thing to consider is where the boat will be stored. You cannot store a shrink wrapped boat under tree cover or anything that could drop icicles on the wrap, they will most likely go right through. I once wrapped a 24 Formula and when I showed up the boat was under a big tree. I convinced the owner to move it and then wrapped the boat. Two months later in December he called to say my job had failed and his boat was full of ice and water. Went to look at it and guess what, the boat was right back under the tree that was thawing out from a freezing rain and dropped ice right throught the wrap in numerous places. That was the only "failure" I ever had on at least 400 boats.

The other consideration is how far down the side to come. I always felt that the right way was to go right down the sides to the waterline and protect the hull finish. Shrink wrap comes in 4 foot wide increments for the most part and on even 8 foot beam boat with a T-top you need more than a 16 foot wide roll to come down the sides. Going to a 24' wide roll will only coat you $20 or so in material, labor remains the same. The cost of material is higher obviously with the wider rolls. If you take a string and hold it at your waterline then go up and over the T-top (or other highest point) and down to the opposite waterline, that string length is the width of the shrink roll that should be used. To save a couple of bucks and only go to the rub rail is not a good choice IMO. One of the benefits of shrinking is the fact that the wrap will actually shrink up to 50% of it's area as it cools. The square footage of wrap from the rub rail to the waterline actually helps to make the whole job "tighter" without worrying about putting too much heat on the wrap near a canvas T-top or other delicate parts to heat.

In snow country we never had a snow weight failure. Sometimes a wet snow may build up a bit and you will see some sagging but it will not cave in the wrap that I have ever seen. When the snow melts the wrap will go right back to it's original tightness. If the boat is wrapped right the finished product should be very tight (as in drum tight), sloped and typically will not allow snow to build up. A relatively "flat" boat like a bow rider with a low windshield is perhaps the hardest boat to wrap correctly because there is no slope. If you make a vertical 2x4 pole with a plywood base near the center of the boat and cover it with carpet we then run line or strapping from the bow to the post and then back down to the stern cleats or transom tow eyes to create the slope. Sharp things like antenna mounts, rocket launchers etc need to be covered with carpet or sometimes even just shrink wrap tape or during the shrinking process these points may poke through the wrap as it shrinks.

As an owner you need to decide if the cost has value to you just like any other money decision on boats. Add a door which will cost you about $25 and can be used over again for a few years. That will allow you access into the boat throughout the covered period if needed.

If you store in a marina chances are that the marina will not let an independent come in and shrink your boat so the cost will reflect the marina mark-up which as we know can be substantial. We only had one boat yard that would let us direct bill customers at our normal rate, the majority would mark up our cost over 50% and bill the customer from the marina office.

We have all seen new boats travelling the interstate at 70 mph with the shrink wrap not even moving in the wind. That is the testimony to how good a wrapped boat will hold up to the weather if done right. I once wrapped a Saberline 36 hull #1 in RI for transport to the Miami boat show. The fly bridge was off and wrapped separately. The dealer told me the boat had not a tear after travelling 1200 miles at 70 mph and that thing was the shape of a barn. Trying that with any kind of poly tarp would be futile and the tarp smacking your hull under 70 mph winds will scratch your gelcoat.

If any THT members are within 30 miles or so of Newport RI, drop me a PM and I will get a good wrapper to give you a fair price. I have no ownership, interest or take any commissions from this company. The guy just does good work at a fair price and is a boat nut like most of us so he cares.
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Old 10-22-2005, 01:09 PM
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Default Re: The Hull Truth about Shrink Wrapping

I'm in an enclosed shed this year but will be shrink wrapping from now on. Great post.

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Old 10-22-2005, 01:35 PM
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Default Re: The Hull Truth about Shrink Wrapping

Sleeper,

I must say to you I live in California and we do not winter wrap our boats or have a need to do it because of the mild weather and consistent winter temps (just lucky?) but your write up is very timely and very detailed and appreciated. This is a great thread for anyone that plans on moving their boat or long distance or storing their boat for the winter or even rack mounts their baby and will have it in storage over an extended period of time. It will keep the critters out and the boat clean and hopefully mold proof.

One of the things though that you did start to cover but did not explain If I may add is there are plenty of moisture products out there in the market that can be placed into the wet areas to help eliminate mold and moisture for closed areas and hatch areas or enclosed cabins with doors to prevent moisture build up or mold in the cabins, bilges, deck compartments, fish holds, cuddies, storage areas, closets, galley areas or heads on our boats. prior to wrapping or sealing up the boat for extended periods of time on the down season or just storing.

Great write up SLEEPER and complete thread
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Old 10-22-2005, 01:50 PM
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Default Re: The Hull Truth about Shrink Wrapping

Outstanding Post!!! I'd love to see more timely posts from other people who have expertise in other areas. Great job!

Mark
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Old 10-22-2005, 07:28 PM
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Default Re: The Hull Truth about Shrink Wrapping

BAZ-

I have seen a few of the moisture absorbing products you mention and they seem to work great. Many boaters use them with success no matter what type of cover they use. My point in the area of moisture and beginning with a dry boat priot to shrink wrapping is the starting point to success. Although the moisture absorbing products work well, wrapping a boat with water in the bilge and an overall dampness like in the morning before the dew has dried creates so much of a volume of water that these devices are quickly overwhelmed and maxed out. Having a zippered door installed could help and allow the owner to check and change moisture absorbers periodically. The "sealing" ability of shrinkwrap is very high when compared to any other type of cover. The only place for air to get in a shrunk boat is around the engine(s) and that point is generally very low on the boat compared to the highest point under cover. The shrink wrap vents help some and I would recommend a couple up high on either side but IMO even the vents do little to overcome a large amount of water that was in the boat prior to wrapping. Ideally you have all your hatches, doors etc open for a few days when it is dry-then wrap the boat. Those conditions and the schedule of the guy wrapping your boat are often hard to meet, that is the challenge.

I once wrapped my own boat in less than ideal conditions and installed a door. A few days later I was in the boat and amazed to see how wet the underside of the wrap was. Using a bunch of towels (PITA) it was a matter of soaking as much moisture out as possible and then everything was OK. The terrarium effect is real and needs to be accounted for.
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Old 11-12-2006, 11:38 PM
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Default Re: The Hull Truth about Shrink Wrapping

This thread is ~1 year old, but thought Sleeper's wisdom might benefit others at this time of year.
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Old 11-13-2006, 04:25 AM
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Default Re: The Hull Truth about Shrink Wrapping

Drifter, you're right. A very timely post. Thanks. I just had my boat pulled on Friday and blocked it in front of my house. This is a new boat and the first time I ever stored one for the winter. I scheduled the guy to come back in two weeks to wrap it. This was primarily to give me time to get everything off it and give it a good waxing. However, the thought of letting it dry out before wrapping did occur to me. This post confirms my thoughts. I have all the hatchs open and hopefully the weather cooperates and lets the boat dry out. It self bails so a little rain won't hurt. I was particularly concerned about drying the bilge. I have an independent guy wrapping it and he's charging $10 per foot. The dealer I bought the boat from quoted me $19/ft. Thanks again. Great info. Jack
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Old 11-13-2006, 08:41 AM
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Default Re: The Hull Truth about Shrink Wrapping

I've heard that the shrink wrap over Awlgrip. could cause it to blister. Any truth to that?
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Old 11-13-2006, 09:05 AM
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Default RE: The Hull Truth about Shrink Wrapping

Great info!
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Old 11-13-2006, 10:47 AM
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Default RE: The Hull Truth about Shrink Wrapping

I picked up a little tip a few years back, works great and is inexpensive. It works on the same basis as a basement moister absorber, but on a much larger scale. I have a 27' boat an use 3 of these set-ups. I take a 1/2 or 1 gal. bucket, drill several small holes in the bottom of it for drainage. Drill them from inside to out. Drill a couple 3/8" hole's about 1/2" down from the top directly across from each other. Fill bucket 1/2 to 3/4 full of CALCIUM CHLORIDE " SNOW AND ICE MELTER " Take a 5 gal. bucket, drill a couple 3/8" hole's around an 1" or so down from the top directly across frorm each other. Set the little bucket in the big bucket with a piece of 3/8" dowel rod suspending it. In the spring you will not beleive the water that has accumulated in the 5 gal. bucket. I also like to use moth balls. No musty smell what so ever. Make sure to leave everything wide open inside, especially the bilge hatche's. The little basement jobs will work as long as you keep dumping the little water catcher. Going with the bigger set-up, make's the project maintenance free for the intire lay-up season.
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Old 11-13-2006, 03:51 PM
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Default RE: The Hull Truth about Shrink Wrapping

I am no professional shrink wrapper but I have been in hundreds of boatyards and marinas all across the USA and Canada. As I live in the northeast i have asked a lot of questions about why different people shrink wrap in different ways and have found the answers quite eye opening. The people i felt were the most open about shrink wrap told me the best way to keep a boat for winter is in a covered building oe dry stack where rain and snow can not get into,with nothing touching the hull. All hatches and windows doors etc should be open.

The next best choice was to use a large tarp (yes tarp) build a frame like shrink wrappers do but make sure the ropes to the tarp extended away from the hull so as to allow air to fully circulate through the boat.

Third was to shrink wrap but use plenty of ventsand dorr openings in the shrink wrap. (vast majority I have seen dont have vents) Doors windows hatches etc left open. You get waht you pay for

The worst thing as told to me was to shrink wrap a boat up tight as can be with no vents insatlled on the in the shrink wrap. You get waht you pay for

Color of shrink wrap seems to be important to some people as well. i have seen a great deal of blue shrink wrap use in different locations.

The problem i find with shrink wrapping personaly is this. If i do in fact want my boat completly dry before shrink wrapping it would need to sit outside for days if not weeks and if it rains or even gets very humid we start all over again.By using a frame and extending the tarp away from the boat i have nothing rubbing on the boat and air circulates freely in and around the boat.

Just one other thought about moisture. I believe it is a myth to think the humidity outside the shrink wrap is any deifferent than inside. Hunmidity is the same unless in a moistuer controlled inviorment.
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Old 11-13-2006, 04:43 PM
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Default Re: The Hull Truth about Shrink Wrapping

Shrink wrap is great for covering a boat for transporting over the road... Other than that I'll stick with a custom made canvas cover. Pays for itself in a couple years and the boat can breathe.
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Old 11-13-2006, 08:00 PM
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Default Re: The Hull Truth about Shrink Wrapping

Anyone ever had a problem with the static buildup from removing the shrink wrap?? When I took off mine I was afraid to touch the console for fear of frying the electronics.
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Old 11-13-2006, 08:22 PM
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Default Re: The Hull Truth about Shrink Wrapping

Since I store my boat on my property, I put a regular house-hold type dehumidifyer in the boat after shrinkwrapping. I set the humidistat to 60% and leave it plugged in for the winter. Then I run a piece of hose from the dehumidifyer drain down to the garboard plug, which of course, has been removed for the winter layup. Between that setup, and one of those inexpensive West Marine moisture driers that have something like a 15 watt element in them, the boat stays nice and dry, and I've had no musty smells or moisture problems.

This works great for those who have access to electric all winter. Otherwise, I would use lots of the dry bags and change them when the indicator dot turns pink, and would try the suggestion of using the 5 gal buckets with the ice-melt chemical.
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Old 11-13-2006, 09:01 PM
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Default Re: The Hull Truth about Shrink Wrapping

This is my last year paying for shrinkwrap. I have to use the storage yards guys and it cost 579.00 dollars to cover a Bertram 33 FBC. What a ripoff! Of course it goes up every year. I will cover with a tarp and frame, easy to do, done it before on other boats. Luckily I'm able to do stuff like that myself, I feel bad for people that have no choice but to be extorted. Shrink Wrap, another reason people are getting out of boating for good.
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Old 11-14-2006, 08:32 AM
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Default Re: The Hull Truth about Shrink Wrapping

The only thing I would be cautious of is putting it against a dark colored hull, because
it can cause the gelcoat to discolor or become blotchy.
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Old 11-14-2006, 11:36 AM
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Default Re: The Hull Truth about Shrink Wrapping

Is a custom canvas cover better than shrinkwrap for outside storage through a Northeast winter?
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Old 11-14-2006, 11:46 AM
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Default Re: The Hull Truth about Shrink Wrapping

If designed to allow air flow around and through the boat and does not rub against the hull it is a much better bet. Just my opinion though
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Old 11-14-2006, 11:46 AM
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Absolutely! If you can handle the weight of it, and the cost. Expensive up front, but in the long run it will pay for itself compared with the extortion that shrink wrappers are getting.
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Old 11-14-2006, 12:24 PM
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Default Re: The Hull Truth about Shrink Wrapping

This is a great post for those poor souls that have to store thier boats out site.. Sorry about that guys... I back mine into the garage, close the door and turn on the heaters and can go down and work in nice comfortable 70+ temps with zero humidity and great lighting....

But I am limited too.. I can't put anything in the garage longer than about 30 to maybe 35' and can't go much wider than 9' and taller than 7' I am really screwed on height, pretty much leaves out ANY type of fishing boat... Pretty much GFLB's for me..

But I do know one thing.. If I ever decide to shell out 100K + for one of these He Man fisher boats.... I won't let it sit outside through the winter, I would build a garage for it

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