2001 Evinrude FICHT 150 check engine light - The Hull Truth

96TL · 10-04-2005, 08:10 AM

This Saturday I was pulling the anchor (fished alone) when I heard one of my engine alarms go off. By the time I finished pulling the anchor and got back to the helm the alarm had stopped. The rest of the day it didn’t happen again. Last night when I was idling and my friend was pulling the anchor the alarm went off again. I noticed it was the check engine alarm. I shut the motor and started it up again and she stalled. Tried again and she ran fine the rest of the night, no check engine alarm. This motor always stalls when I put it into reverse when I leave my slip. It does that when it’s cold. The only thing I’ve done differently is switch 2 stroke oil. I went from the Evinrude XD50 to Penzoil. Someone at my marina told me the Penzoil smells less than the Evinrude. Do you think the different oil could be triggering the check engine light? Maybe the different oil fouled a plug? Is there any way to pull an error code from the ECU like a car to figure out what triggered the light? It’s a 2001 Evinrude FICHT 150. Thanks guys. I could use some advice before calling a mechanic. Dom

96TL · 10-04-2005, 11:03 AM

I did a little research and found that check engine alarm usually means there is a fuel restriction somewhere. Can you guys give me some tips on where to check? What parts should I clean or replace? Thanks again. Dom

captkern · 10-04-2005, 11:57 AM

On my '01 150 ficht the check engine light was for overcharging, which unfortunately meant the computer was fried. $1800 bucks later and a new Bombardier computer to replace the crappy OMC, it runs great. Hope yours is something minor. Only way to tell is have it hooked up to a computer.

96TL · 10-04-2005, 12:05 PM

Wow. If it was overcharging wouldn't my voltage meter show high voltage? It's usually somewhere between 13.5 - 14 volts.

captkern · 10-04-2005, 12:07 PM

Correct, my voltage gauge did shoot right up. I was just pointing out that it could be many things and the best thing to do is get it hooked up to show the codes.

96TL · 10-04-2005, 12:11 PM

Okay thanks. By the way, the motor does not go into slow mode. She runs fine besides the stalling issue in reverse when cold. She also stalls at idle sometimes.

96TL · 10-04-2005, 12:55 PM

I forgot to mention one more thing. I noticed last week that my check engine LED did not light up during the self test upon start up. Then this Saturday it did light up during the self test and this was also the first time the check engine alarm went off. Could it be a faulty gauge?

fullrut2 · 10-04-2005, 01:42 PM

my 98 150 ficht is doing the same thing?? it runs fine then I get the warning buzzer check engine light? about a month ago same motor fried an ignition module? got it rebuilt and first day out..motor runs fine..here come the check engine light??? warning buzzer goes off.
odd thing is though..my girlfriend noticed that my fuel gauge to the bad motor is jumping back and forth??? she says that it did the same thing on the night the ig module got fried??? darn fichts??? what to do?
doug

96TL · 10-06-2005, 08:25 PM

I pulled the codes from my motor tonight in case anyone is monitoring this thread. I got 2 codes. I believe one of them is old since my other motor threw the same code but that check engine light has never come on during my ownership. Maybe the prior owner had it repaired but they didnt clear the codes.

Code #22 - "Water temperature switch activation."

This code initiates SLOW so this must be old. My motor did not go into SLOW the other day and she ran perfectly.

Code #28 - Shift assist circuit malfunction.

This code dose not initiate SLOW so this might be my problem. I noticed the other day that when I shifted from reverse into drive I heard a slight grinding sound. Maybe this has something to do with it?

seahorse · 10-07-2005, 07:40 AM

The CHECK ENGINE alarm can mean many things, most of them minor like water in the fuel filter, stuck shift switch, bad barometric pressure sensor, etc. It can also mean some serious problems, but in those cases, the motor will go into the protective SLOW mode. The FICHT motor will NOT get an alarm for a fuel restriction, that is for carbureted motors only.

Getting a grinding sound when shifting into reverse can be a number of problems. In salt water, it is very common to have stiff shifting linkage on the motor or corrosion on the shiftshaft where it enters the gearcase. Remove the shift cable from the engine and using your fingers while spinning the prop, shift into fwd. and rev. I should shift smoothly and easily with your fingers. If it is stiff or sticky, then find out what is binding things up. You may have to remove the gearcase to see the corrosion on the shift shaft and in the shift o-ring cover.

IF things shift smoothly, check for excessive free-play or wear in the linkage and cable. The service manual shows how to check the cable and control box shift travel and how to correctly adjust the cables. Also inspect the shift switch pin for binding in its housing or mounitng bracket. Check it also with an ohmmeter for proper operation.

96TL · 10-07-2005, 10:44 AM

Thanks. I will check it out. The throttle for that motor was always harder than the other one.