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Much to my dissapointment, I just tried to raise my outboard one set of holes using the trailer tongue jack method. Once all bolts (4) were removed, the engine would still not budge. After closely inspecting the bolts, mounting holes, and surrounding areas of the transom, its fairly obvious 5200 was used on the bolts and way too much at that. This is a 2005 Whaler Montauk barely 10 months old and needless to say, I am a bit pissed that any engine installer at a deealership would use 5200 when mounting an outboard. Fearing I will damage the gelcoat if I force the outboard off, I have decided to take it back to the dealer and let them raise the engine since it is their screwup. I realize they are going to use an overhead hoist and a lifting attachment to raise the engine but won't most of the gelcoat from the transom come peeling off under that 5200 when they break the motor free? They are supposedly a "full service" marine center and even manufacture their own "house brand" of boats for local customers. Taking this into account, I presume they are fully capable of glassing and gelcoating just about anything. If the gelcoat is ripped off and they try and repair it, assuming they do good work, will it look as good as the factory job?
I am no pro myself but I would like to think I have been around boats long enough to know that, while 5200 has many great uses, mounting an outboard is not one of them.
Use "Anti Bond 2015" to break the seal and it will move. This is a solvent that was designed to break down the covalent molecular bond of 5200-type polysulfide goops.
I have also used thin, strong 120# wire on wooden handles to "cut" the 5200 bead, once you soften it up with the anti-bond and can get the wire under an edge.
__________________ [red]MISS TEAK[/red], 25' Parker mod-V Sport Cabin "Life's too short to own an ugly boat ..." www.classicparker.com
The easiest way to make 5200 come loose is with a heat gun. Get it hot and it will come right off, it works better than anything I have tried. Give it a try and you will be amazed.
Flieman
This is why I don't advocate the use of 5200 to seal holes. 5200 is more of an adhesive than it is a sealant, and a darn good one at that. All of the adhesion of the motor to the boat is provided by the bolts. All we are trying to do is to keep water from getting into or through the transom. That is what sealants are for.
Everything has its need and place. 5200 isn't needed and transom holes are not the place for it.
sammyk, The trailer jack method is done by blocking under the skeg (or using the ground ) loosening the motor and jacking up the tongue of the trailer . The motor remains still but the transom goes lower allowing you to change the mounting location without actually lifting the motor. MAKE sure that the engine is adaquately supported using this method .(two big friends work real well). Also use the tilt on the engine to keep it vertical as the transom angle will change as you raise the trailer tongue.
I hope this is helpful . Also make sure to seal those holes with 5200
__________________ 20' Jones Bros BATEAU
282 Grady-White Sailfish
Contender uses 5200 on their boats as well. I can assure you that I could remove the engine bolts and run the thing the next 10 years without those engines coming loose!
Lil John,
I've (and still do) used 5200 for 20 years...and I have, when in a hurry, peeled a little gelcoat off when adjusting/changing motors. The trade off to me was that I wanted to be absolutely no water got in my transom. The possibiblity of a little cosmetic damage was just the risk in insure the longevity of the hull's integrity. Also, if they're even a little careful the new 5200 will completely seal/cover any small amount of gelcoat that may be affected. By yours being a 2005 model I doubt any gelcoat will be removed. Long exposure to water does strange things to some "sealants"...a friend of mine used a silicon product, left his 21 footer in the marina all summer and paid a dear price! Good Luck!!
5200 is just on the other extreem of silicone products. Neither have much place on boats. Boat life makes sealants for just about any job. Why does almost everyone use 5200? Because most are just too lazy to remember which is the right sealant for the job. Check that either lazy or just dumb. Sorry to all you lazy mechanics who spoog 5200 on everything.
5200 was designed for the hull to deck joint and that's about all it should be used for. Sometimes I wish it were registered as some sort of a hazardous material that required a license to buy it!
I think there should be some sort of disclosure requirement whenever a boat is sold describing where this stuff has been used so the buyer can make an informed decision.
Anyway, there are marine sealants and adhesives for all types of applications. Better to use the correct one for each use.
Rainmaker/Gary: I would have much preferred them to use either 3M 101 sealant of Boatlife Caulk...both are superior at keeping water out but they remove much easier than 5200. Not trying to bash 5200 as I realize it's a superior sealing product but it does not belong on outboard mounting bolts.
On second thought, rather than having the dealer do it, I think I'll just try the Anti-bond 2015 and perhaps a heat gun.....thanks very much for your insight and help
sounds like you know your sealants a bit and you are on the right track. dealer though should not be in business if they use 5200 for outboard installation as a matter of standard practice. this is about the most idiotic practice a dealership can follow. they know better and I suspect they are only doing this so most folks will HAVE to use them when they want to raise/lower their engine. either of the products you mention above would work fine for outboard mounting and, as u state, are MUCH easier to remove than 5200. check your motor on your own and buy a factory manual to help you with maintenance and repair work....maybe even some special tools from the maker of your outboard (Merc isn't it for Whaelrs?). if these bozos are the ones who regularly service your outboard, you would be well advised to double check everything they do. if they use 5200 to mount outboards, they would not put a wrench on my boat!
Use "Anti Bond 2015" to break the seal and it will move. This is a solvent that was designed to break down the covalent molecular bond of 5200-type polysulfide goops.
I have also used thin, strong 120# wire on wooden handles to "cut" the 5200 bead, once you soften it up with the anti-bond and can get the wire under an edge.
There's no way to know exactly which sealant was used, they all look pretty much the same once they are out of the tube. I would use one of the methods Reel-Rascals suggested.
They may have used 3M 4200 which is an excellent adhesive but it is not permanent.
I have mounted a Merc 50 with 4200 and changed mounting position twice with no problems. I have cut several one inch wide wedges (5 to 10 degree angle). I loosen the two top bolts -- about 1/8 inch from washer-- and remove the two bottom bolts. I then place the thin end of the wedge ( about 1/16 inch) at the bottom of the bracket (where it is against the transom) and tap it between the bracket and the transom. When the first wedge is tight I do the same to the other side. Then
alternatively tap each wedge until the bracket releases.
how to remove a outboard mounted with 5200 
