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Old 08-23-2013, 07:30 PM
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Default Complete rebuild dusky 256 cc - 1994 twin 200hp optis

I bought a 256 Dusky from a second owner, it was botton painted. After a few trips I saw a chine crack. I remove the anti-fouling paint and fast fixed the crack. after two years the same crack appears but way smaller (Hair line Crack) so that is when I decided to rebuild the boat (also I am a new father so I dont want to risk my daughter ). When I remove the deck, there was an infestation of termites.

I am replacing the old stringers with new NIDACORE stringers 1.5 inch, doing a second pair of longitudinal stringers. changing the transom with COOSA BLUEWATER 26. 2"I am located in Panama, so any good advices will be highly appreciated.

Here are some pics. Enjoy!
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Last edited by CarlosCH; 08-23-2013 at 08:49 PM.
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Old 08-23-2013, 07:38 PM
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the white stuff on the wood in the above pic are the termites.
I am replacing the old stringers with new NIDACORE stringers 1.5 inch, doing a second pair of longitudinal stringers. changing the transom with COOSA BLUEWATER 26. 2"
Again any advice will be highly appreciated!!
I will keep you post it with pics

Last edited by CarlosCH; 08-23-2013 at 08:39 PM.
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Old 08-23-2013, 07:50 PM
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Default how it used to look.

My dusky before stripping
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Old 08-23-2013, 08:25 PM
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Those don't look like 1994 optis... Lol
What year is the hull? I own a 2002 256 and could not be any happier!!
Good luck with the build

Oh and congratulation on the new born, I my self just had my first son a month and a half ago..
Que Dios bendiga tu hijita!
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Old 08-23-2013, 08:37 PM
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Those don't look like 1994 optis... Lol
What year is the hull? I own a 2002 256 and could not be any happier!!
Good luck with the build

Oh and congratulation on the new born, I my self just had my first son a month and a half ago..
Que Dios bendiga tu hijita!
The hull is 1994 the engines are 2001.
Actually I really like the boat, that is why I am fixing it. I have been in 6+ seas here in Panama and the boat handles very nice, scarry but nice. The only thing I dont like is the very low stern, maybe because the twin 200hp optis are to heavy, however, WOT is 45knots (only in calm seas).

Gracias Sergio por las bendiciones. I will have to look for the boy so it can inherit my dusky. jejej
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Old 08-24-2013, 02:43 PM
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Default Please any advice

I am just finishing sanding the hull. PLEASE ANY ADVICE.!!!! I do hear that dusky suffers from hair line cracks on the chine. I do have them. Again, I am planning to put a second set of stringers (longitudinal) Using NIDACORE. Any other advice???? I will keep posting pictures.
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Old 08-24-2013, 02:45 PM
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Old 08-26-2013, 02:05 PM
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Old 08-26-2013, 02:52 PM
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put a picture of the crack so people can better help you with it.
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Old 08-26-2013, 03:02 PM
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Carlos, were there any bulkheads in the stringer system, or just the 2 longitudinal stringers? Not sure how the originals were installed...were they directly placed on the bottom of the hull? Or suspended about 1/2 inch? Were there any fillets at the bottom to widen the stringers' footprint on the bottom? Did the glass tabbing break loose? I would make the stringers as wide as possible and use a 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch structural foam base to spread the load over a larger area and eliminate any possible hard spots. Take a look at the picture of a stringer on a foam pad in this link....this may be an option


http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-...oration-9.html
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Old 08-27-2013, 06:19 PM
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Tomorrow I will take pictures of the crack. They are hair line cracks
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Old 08-27-2013, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by maxie View Post
Carlos, were there any bulkheads in the stringer system, or just the 2 longitudinal stringers? Not sure how the originals were installed...were they directly placed on the bottom of the hull? Or suspended about 1/2 inch? Were there any fillets at the bottom to widen the stringers' footprint on the bottom? Did the glass tabbing break loose? I would make the stringers as wide as possible and use a 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch structural foam base to spread the load over a larger area and eliminate any possible hard spots. Take a look at the picture of a stringer on a foam pad in this link....this may be an option


http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-...oration-9.html
There were only 2 longitudinal stringers, no bulkheads. Directlty places on the botton of the hull. no fillets. I am doing 1.5inch Nidacore. But this time I will put 4 stringers longitudinal. (I already bought the materials) for the transom I am using Coosa Bluewater 26.
Thanks for the advice. I will keep posting photos.
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Old 08-27-2013, 07:21 PM
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After looking more closely, you do have a couple bulkheads around the fuel and water tanks........take a look at this Dusky rebuild.....he did a great job on it.....you could rebuild your grid and transom the same way....
look at post 109 on page 6
Actually, the whole thread is a great tutorial for your boat...first 20 pages show you a great way to redo the hull structure and tank installation...

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-...y-256-css.html

Last edited by maxie; 08-27-2013 at 07:36 PM.
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Old 08-28-2013, 12:10 AM
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sweet ride, and perfect power for this hull. I had the same hull with 175 rudes and similar performance #s. The problem with the stringers is they are in the wrong place relative to the chines. The stringers are a few inches inside which puts a lot of stress on the angle of the chine. That crack you speak of has been on every older dusky I have looked at, which is a lot (love the lines). Once the foam gets a little older and looses its stiffness or gets the least bit wet, it is no longer structural and all of the flex in rough seas is transmitted to that chine. Luckily Dusky uses a TON of fiberglass compared to others and the boats don't split down the middle. They will leak over time though, mine did. Another major problem is rotten bulkeds. Once they rot out the stiffness of the hull is gone and it is basically trying to fold up on you in heavy seas. Again, lots of fiberglass so thankfully this does not happen.

Take notes on the previously mentioned thread. He did an awesome job on re-designing the structure. I would add a couple extra bulkeds to stiffen it up along with your new stringers. As mentioned before, use as wide a stringer as possible. If it were me I would make them much wider and use the extra width to get closer to the chine that cracks. Then add some extra layers of glass where they join to thicken at the base.

The low transom is unavoidable on your boat unfortunately. I would raise the floor a inch and maybe you will be able to keep your feet dry. Mine would have an inch of water in the back few feet of the cockpit while at the dock with a full fishing load (150 gal fuel, 200 lb ice, 14 trolling rods, 4 guys). Make sure your bracket is empty as well, mine would fill up with water due to a leaky hatch on top over time. It probably holds a few hundred lbs of water.
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Old 08-28-2013, 06:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qzone83 View Post
sweet ride, and perfect power for this hull. I had the same hull with 175 rudes and similar performance #s. The problem with the stringers is they are in the wrong place relative to the chines. The stringers are a few inches inside which puts a lot of stress on the angle of the chine. That crack you speak of has been on every older dusky I have looked at, which is a lot (love the lines). Once the foam gets a little older and looses its stiffness or gets the least bit wet, it is no longer structural and all of the flex in rough seas is transmitted to that chine. Luckily Dusky uses a TON of fiberglass compared to others and the boats don't split down the middle. They will leak over time though, mine did. Another major problem is rotten bulkeds. Once they rot out the stiffness of the hull is gone and it is basically trying to fold up on you in heavy seas. Again, lots of fiberglass so thankfully this does not happen.

Take notes on the previously mentioned thread. He did an awesome job on re-designing the structure. I would add a couple extra bulkeds to stiffen it up along with your new stringers. As mentioned before, use as wide a stringer as possible. If it were me I would make them much wider and use the extra width to get closer to the chine that cracks. Then add some extra layers of glass where they join to thicken at the base.

The low transom is unavoidable on your boat unfortunately. I would raise the floor a inch and maybe you will be able to keep your feet dry. Mine would have an inch of water in the back few feet of the cockpit while at the dock with a full fishing load (150 gal fuel, 200 lb ice, 14 trolling rods, 4 guys). Make sure your bracket is empty as well, mine would fill up with water due to a leaky hatch on top over time. It probably holds a few hundred lbs of water.
To add to that, Ed from the other Dusky thread can build you a very nice engine bracket for that boat....as he already has the right dimensions for it.....
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Old 08-28-2013, 06:47 AM
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Only two longitudinal stringers. Crazy. Consider adding another pair and grid it. You would add significant strength and forever solve the cracking issue.
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Old 08-28-2013, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qzone83 View Post
sweet ride, and perfect power for this hull. I had the same hull with 175 rudes and similar performance #s. The problem with the stringers is they are in the wrong place relative to the chines. The stringers are a few inches inside which puts a lot of stress on the angle of the chine. That crack you speak of has been on every older dusky I have looked at, which is a lot (love the lines). Once the foam gets a little older and looses its stiffness or gets the least bit wet, it is no longer structural and all of the flex in rough seas is transmitted to that chine. Luckily Dusky uses a TON of fiberglass compared to others and the boats don't split down the middle. They will leak over time though, mine did. Another major problem is rotten bulkeds. Once they rot out the stiffness of the hull is gone and it is basically trying to fold up on you in heavy seas. Again, lots of fiberglass so thankfully this does not happen.

Take notes on the previously mentioned thread. He did an awesome job on re-designing the structure. I would add a couple extra bulkeds to stiffen it up along with your new stringers. As mentioned before, use as wide a stringer as possible. If it were me I would make them much wider and use the extra width to get closer to the chine that cracks. Then add some extra layers of glass where they join to thicken at the base.

The low transom is unavoidable on your boat unfortunately. I would raise the floor a inch and maybe you will be able to keep your feet dry. Mine would have an inch of water in the back few feet of the cockpit while at the dock with a full fishing load (150 gal fuel, 200 lb ice, 14 trolling rods, 4 guys). Make sure your bracket is empty as well, mine would fill up with water due to a leaky hatch on top over time. It probably holds a few hundred lbs of water.
Thanks Qzone,
Its like you are talking about my dusky. same issues. Water in the bracket, etc. What the previous owner did for wet feet issue, is that he open two small holes on the back of the cockpit so the water drop to the bildge. eventually the bildge pumps pumped the water out. It was a nice system, but I think I will eliminated. I bought two ball seascupper.

Apart from that.. Its a great boat. jejej

keep u posted
rgds
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Old 08-28-2013, 07:21 AM
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Only two longitudinal stringers. Crazy. Consider adding another pair and grid it. You would add significant strength and forever solve the cracking issue.
Correct. That is exactly what I will do.
4 stringers. and some bulkheads.

thanks

rgds
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Old 08-28-2013, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by maxie View Post
After looking more closely, you do have a couple bulkheads around the fuel and water tanks........take a look at this Dusky rebuild.....he did a great job on it.....you could rebuild your grid and transom the same way....
look at post 109 on page 6
Actually, the whole thread is a great tutorial for your boat...first 20 pages show you a great way to redo the hull structure and tank installation...

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-...y-256-css.html
Maxie,
Thanks for the reply.
I have been reading his threads. Its inspirational!! jejejej.
He did an awsome job. I have been writting him on the inbox for few advices

rgds
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Old 08-28-2013, 07:35 AM
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Going to be a nice boat when you are done with it!

This is probably so obvious it's silly to mention, but consider either a new fuel tank or VERY closely inspect the one you pulled both inside and out for corrosion. Would be awful to have an issue not too long after you got it back together.

I'll be watching this thread for tips.
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