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Old 02-26-2013, 05:00 AM
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Default Fuel gauge/sender issues

Last trip I topped off at the marina went on a 50 mile trip and it is still pegging full as soon as I turn the ignition on. I checked the connections at the gauge and at the top of the tank and they seem ok. Its a Yamaha system and was wondering if the senders are more common? If so is the part Yamaha specific or manufacture of the boat?
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:06 AM
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Disconnect the wires at the sender, and if the gauge reads empty, then you have a bad sender. If the gauge still reads full, you have a short in the wiring harness between the sender and the gauge, or a bad gauge.

Senders are universal. If you need one, remove the old sender, measure the tank depth and go to www.wemausa.com/ and order the proper sender.
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Old 02-26-2013, 06:53 AM
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Thanks Gary!!!! I will do that this weekend!!!
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Old 02-26-2013, 02:46 PM
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Just as lakensea says.
Yamaha doesn't provide fuel tank senders, yours could be made by any of the sender mfgrs. . Since USA standard gauges and senders work with ~~ 240 ohms resistance at Empty and 33 ohms at full, pegged at full indicates a short to ground, either internal or external.

Also , if it happened to be a no-moving-parts, capacitance-based sender like Centroid Products' or Livorsi's and maybe some others, it will peg the gauge Full if it senses water at the bottom of it's tank probe.
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:20 PM
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I have the reverse problem. My guage is pegged at empty...... Any suggestions for a quick troubleshoot to determine if it is guage or sender ?
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttphilip View Post
I have the reverse problem. My guage is pegged at empty...... Any suggestions for a quick troubleshoot to determine if it is guage or sender ?
Was it working properly recently or have either gauge or sender or their wiring been replaced since working correctly?

If the gauge and sender ohms standard were not matched ( USA standard with Euro/metric standard gauge/sender combination) the gauge could be reading Empty when full.
They both have to be the same standard, and working, for the gauge to read correctly.

You can check the gauge : if it is USA and good it should read Empty or below if the sender wire is removed from the gauge S terminal with power (and good ground to the gauge, and it should peg Full if the Gauge S terminal is jumped to good negative ground. If the opposite gauge progression happens, it is likely a Euro/metric gauge.

Pull & test the sender in Empty to Full position if it is the float-type.
If USA,on your multitester it should show ~ 240 ohms at Empty and down to ~ 33 ohms at Full position.
If it's Euro it should read low resitance around 10 ohms at Empty and just up to ~ 180 ohms at Full.

A matched Euro gauge & sender could, for example, display pegged-Empty if the sender wire was chafed & shorted to engine or other ground. USA matched set would read Empty if the sender wire circuit was open, ...disconnected but not grounded out.
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Old 02-27-2013, 03:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttphilip View Post
I have the reverse problem. My guage is pegged at empty...... Any suggestions for a quick troubleshoot to determine if it is guage or sender ?
Very easy - First check to make sure you have 12 volts going to the "I" (or "+") and ground connections at the gauge. If that's good, disconnect the wires at the sender and connect together. Turn the ignition key on and if the gauge pegs "Full", then the sender is bad. If it still pegs "Empty", jump the "S" to "G" (or GRND) terminals on the gauge. If it then pegs full you have a break in one of the wires in the sender to gauge harness. If it still pegs "Empty" - bad gauge.
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Old 02-28-2013, 02:45 AM
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Thanks guys. I will try this weekend.
Ttaxi ..... To answer your question, it worked fine for four years, worked intermittently for a couple months, now pegged at empty all the time.
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