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Old 04-25-2005, 04:48 PM
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Default 1971 50 HP electric shift johnson Shifting question

how does a electric shift motor go into gear,

what tells it to go into forward and reverse, I have a 1971 Johnson motor, 50 hp, and I don't know how to tell it to go into forward or reverse.

I have the controls but I will have to make some modifications to them to get them to work, they have been very beaten up badly and the only thing that works is the throttle cable,

so my question would be, is there a set of wires that you need to grab to make it go into desired gear
?
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Old 04-25-2005, 05:37 PM
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Default Re: 1971 50 HP electric shift johnson Shifting question

The lower unit has two coils, one for forward and one for reverse. They're wired to the shifter by way of switches. The switch completes the necessary circuit and the coil in the lower unit engages the appropriate gear. You have two wires coming out of the coils. Lite green is for forward and lite blue for reverse. If you connect an ohmmeter to one wire and ground, you should get a reading on each wire of 8 to 10 ohms. That will tell you if the coils are good. Hope this helps. Good luck.
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Old 04-25-2005, 06:10 PM
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Default Re: 1971 50 HP electric shift johnson Shifting question

yes this does help , but how would i get it to go in gear if shifter is messed up,
is there any way to rig it do that shifter is used for throttle only,

is there a positive connection it needs to see so it engages
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Old 04-25-2005, 08:33 PM
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Default Re: 1971 50 HP electric shift johnson Shifting question

If you have a '71 gearcase you have a hydro-electric shift. With the engine off the gearcase should be in forward gear. The clutch dog is spring loaded to shove the shifter into forward gear. What gets it into neutral is a hydraulic pump mounted in the front of the gearcase. The hydraulic pump is regulated by two solenoids mounted above the pump. These solenoids close valves allowing hydraulic pressure to build up and push the clutch dog back to the neutral position when one vavle is closed, and then into the reverse position with both valves closed. It's pretty neat system when it is operating properly. It was discontinued when the law required a positive neutral in an outboard. It does make better sense after all.

Bottom line. Forward gear requires no electrical input. Neutral takes one to the green wire, and forward takes both, the green and the blue.

Good luck with it. Some of the best techs I know will not tackle a hydro-electric gearcase.
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:04 PM
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Default Re: 1971 50 HP electric shift johnson Shifting question

i see the green wire and the blue wire, my question is, if the green wire if for nuetral, what do i do to it, do i sipply 12 volts to it, or do i supply a ground to it?
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:45 PM
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Default Re: 1971 50 HP electric shift johnson Shifting question

From Above:

"Forward gear requires no electrical input. Neutral takes one to the green wire, and forward takes both, the green and the blue."

One word is out of place. Should end with "...and REVERSE takes both..."

Given that the everything in the gearcase is working, and something in the control box/switch/wiring is not working, applying 12VDC to dark green should produce neutral, and applying to dark green AND blue should produce neutral. Neither powered and it's in forward.

The neutral and reverse solenoids are stacked on each other. Just one diverts enough oil pressure to overcome the spring for forward to the degree that the shifter dog disengages (neutral). Both divert enough pressure to overcome the spring all the way to pushing the shifter dog into reverse.

Gearcase requires a lube meeting OMC Type C specs. It was for their Electric Shift motors, both yours and an earlier type that operated entirely differently but were the first to use that lube. Do you know that the gearcase is full of clean Type C?
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Old 04-25-2005, 10:25 PM
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Default Re: 1971 50 HP electric shift johnson Shifting question

Quote:
Given that the everything in the gearcase is working, and something in the control box/switch/wiring is not working, applying 12VDC to dark green should produce neutral, and applying to dark green AND blue should produce neutral. Neither powered and it's in forward.
so if i apply 12Vdc to the green, i should get nuetral, and if i apply it to both blue and green i should get reverse, is this correct

also i do not know if th elower unit is full or not, i will go with the later and change it to be on the safe side
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Old 04-26-2005, 09:15 AM
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Default Re: 1971 50 HP electric shift johnson Shifting question

Yep, it takes both wires activated for reverse. Oops.

Type C lubricant has been out of production for years. It was replaced with Premium Blend, a thinner lubricant than the HiVis used in straight mechanical shift gearcases.
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Old 04-26-2005, 07:53 PM
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Default Re: 1971 50 HP electric shift johnson Shifting question

I'M GLAD YOU ASKED THAT I HAVE A 65 HORSE EVENRUDE
WITH ELECTRIC SHIFT I HAVE THREE WIRES WHITE FOR FORWARD BLUE FOR REVERSE
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Old 04-26-2005, 09:42 PM
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Default Re: 1971 50 HP electric shift johnson Shifting question

just to Recap, what i did today

applied 12 +Vdc to green wire, no efect on shaft, still was spinning
applied 12 +Vdc to both green and blue, no effect,
applied 12 +Vdc to blue wire, and no effect, any suggestions

i was thinking something like 12 + to green while blue see Ground, for nurtral, but hav enot tested it yet
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Old 04-27-2005, 07:28 AM
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Default Re: 1971 50 HP electric shift johnson Shifting question

Neither dark green nor blue is a ground. Each solenoid has its own wire and picks up its ground from the lower unit via its outer shell. That means you must have continuity in the +12VDC circuit from the end of each wire (dark green, blue) through any connectors etc. all the way down through the lower unit to the solenoids. Also means the -12VDC (ground) circuit all the way, too.
Are you getting a current draw when you apply +12 to each solenoid lead, being sure you have a ground to the gearcase? Like, do you see a spark, will a test lamp light if put between the +12 and one of the solenoid wires?
If you DO get a spark or light the test lamp, hopefully the solenoids are good. Motor NOT running, can you hear anything click down there when you apply +12 and the connection sparks? There are two lever/ball assemblies down there, one for N and one for R. Maybe you'd hear them move.
I'm glad BoatDood clarified the Lubricant! I never owned an electric shift outboard personally and hadn't been near one for years till the recent rash of questions came up. Got my book out and it said Type C so I said Type C... Just pray the problem is wiring and the problem is outside that gearcase! The Average Bear can't go very far into any gearcase without good information, special tools, and a shortage of corrosion. As BD adds, that hydro-electric stacks a whole new dimension to that!
So be sure you know what you're connecting electrically and where and how. Manual I have is for 1972 65-HP and shows two insulated twist-knife-connect terminals low on the portside at the rear. You slide the insulator away from the connection then the interlocking terminals fold toward each other to disconnect. Not far from the lower spark plug and left of it as you stand behing the motor. Put a ground lead to a gearcase mounting bolt and apply your +12 test voltage to the gearcase terminal end of the connection. It's good practice to have a fuse or circuit breaker in the +12 side. I use a 10A auto reset automotive circuit breaker. Then things don' t get too hot if I have a short to ground...
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Old 04-27-2005, 08:22 AM
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Default Re: 1971 50 HP electric shift johnson Shifting question

Good and thorough explanation from j-d. Just one more thing, or two.

A hydro-electric gearcase will not shift out of gear untill the driveshaft starts to spin, at least enough to build up enough hydraulic pressure to push it out of gear. Therefore, the gearcase should always be in forward gear when the engine is off, no matter how many of those wires are connected.

The '72 65hp gearcase worked the same way. I always had trouble telling the difference in the color of those wires between blue and green, and with age they faded to the point where some of them even looked white. No great harm was done when they were hooked backwards though. It just wouldn't work.
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