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Old 04-23-2012, 04:30 PM
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Default Paint Review Rustoleum Topside

I am sure a lot of people will have negative comments and say use interlux, awlgrip, etc ,etc. This is for people who want to paint their boat and don't have a few hundred dollars to spend on material. I am doing the entire hull on a 25 foot wac for less than 75 bucks including sandpaper. First off forget about rolling and tipping like it says you can do on the can. The paint dies way to quick for that. If you thin it as stated on the can and use the foam rollers you get a very mild orange peel finish. If you put on 3-4 coats though as directed on the can waiting and sanding between coats you'll be ok. Rustoleum says that if you wait 7-10 to let the paint fully cure it is able to be wet sanded and buffed. Which I did and great results. Now don't be alarmed at how soft the paint is after a day or so. Once you let it cure good its hard as nails. I know this may be a lot of work compared to some other brands but at a substantially lower price. I am sure there are a lot of people like me that have more time than they do money. If you are one of those people and don't mind a little work than this product is for you. If you want fast instant results then don't use it. The key is thin even coats. Don't try to load it on too heavy. If you have any questions I will answer them the best I can based on my experiences with the product.





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Old 04-23-2012, 04:33 PM
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nice!
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Old 04-23-2012, 04:40 PM
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Nice job

Few question:

How long between coats?

What did you use to thin it?

Thanks.
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Old 04-23-2012, 06:18 PM
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Thanks guys

I waited about 20-22 hours. I finished coating around 10:30-11 and then started sanding with 220 the next morning around 8:00 or so. I thinned by the instructions I think it says up to 5% with mineral spirits. Just dont try to cover all in one coat just nice even coats so it cures right. I did 4 coats so I would have good material on there to wetsand and buff
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Old 04-23-2012, 06:23 PM
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Like I mentioned in original post it takes a lot longer but it's a lot cheaper. It tiok about 2 hours to sand and coat one side. so that was 8 hours over 4 days then a good full day to wet sand ans buff the whole side
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Old 04-23-2012, 06:25 PM
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how hard is the paint, easy to gouge ?
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Old 04-23-2012, 06:27 PM
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did you try to repair a spot to see how tough it is to blend ?
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Old 04-23-2012, 06:35 PM
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You are getting a good finish going. That old sea drive still working?
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:39 PM
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Jersey, the paint has a very hard finish. It takes about a weeks to get there but definitely hard. I had to cut it with 600 to smooth it out 1000 or 800 didnt touch it. Started at 600 and worked to 1200 then buffed. Tried to scrape it on the corner of the stern where I have to blend in anyway and had no luck. Seems to stick really well with good prep work. As far as blending a repair it is a 1 part paint that is able to be wet sanded and buffed so I would think blending a repair would be pretty easy.

Flatout, thanks for the compliment and yeah both the seadrives run great for now and when they stop I bought the boat right so a repower will be an option
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:40 PM
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There have been people on some of the car restoration forums that have done the same thing as you with good results, to the shock of the pros there.

The one drawback that I see is that once you use this kind of paint, you will have to totally strip every bit of it off if you ever decide at some future date to repaint with Awlgrip, Perfection etc...

But your boat looks good and with some care it should last at the least 2-3 years and maybe more.
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:51 PM
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According to them Awlgrip can't be touched up either.
Interlux perfection is good but I'll say the Interlux Brightside is like what he did. Takes a week or so to get really hard but turns out well. I used in on a nonskid floor and it lasted for years before wearing through.
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Old 04-23-2012, 08:16 PM
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nice job,I used the same paint in white to paint the underside of my t top when I had it off to get some repair work done on the frame,4 coats,waited 24 hrs between coats,and sanded between coats.

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Old 04-23-2012, 08:23 PM
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If your wet sanding and buffing I take it this is an acrylic lacquer.
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Old 04-23-2012, 08:31 PM
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An oil modified alkyd enamel for use above the waterline.

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=4
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Old 04-24-2012, 07:53 AM
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Your t top came out nice. Overall I am very happy with the results. It looks just as good as a sprayed finish. As far as having to strip it if I use awlgrip or interlux in the future, if I get a few years out of it and it starts to maybe fade or whatever I got my moneys worth and I would just spend 30 buck buy 2quarts, scuff it up and throw a freshen up coat with the same paint. Can't beat the results for the money spent

John
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:28 AM
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I am getting ready to do this on my flybridge and cockpit using Rustoleum. I did the interior cabin with it and I am very happy with the results. Can you tell me what you did for prep? I hope my job turns out half as nice as yours did.
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Old 04-24-2012, 10:16 AM
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Thanks for the compliment. Here is how I prepped. I wiped it all down with prep solvent which you can get at any automotive parts store. It strips all the wax off surface before sanding. Sanded entire boat with a DA sander with 220 grit paper. Wipe everything down with a tack cloth to remove all fine dust. Then I wiped it one last time with the prep solvent befor applying the paint.

John
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Old 04-24-2012, 10:56 AM
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MMS, nice job! Great tips, thanks.
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Old 04-24-2012, 12:40 PM
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What primer did you use?
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Old 04-24-2012, 01:35 PM
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Default Beautiful, and for more reasons than one!

It's nice to see paint companies going to a UV protection effort. It was only a year or so ago when I was trying to find an exterior metal paint to use on steel railings with a UV protector in it and the only thing I could find was a marine paint sold by West Marine. I'm at loss for the name, but it was expensive and hard to find, even at West Marine. This paint being Rustoleum means it's available at Home Depot?
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