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Old 04-23-2012, 01:08 PM
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Default Bravo III / 3 outdrive repair - all bellows, gimbal brg, install raw water bypass

Hey guys,

5.7L Mercruiser
Bravo III outdrive

Working on: replace all bellows, gimbal bearing, oil seal behind gimbal, raw water pump (on engine) … and I also want to bypass the raw water intake from the leg to a through hull.

I’m looking for any advice and feedback … and I’m posting this for others who might be doing the same job.

Video: bravo transom repair - Part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3Ow5...ure=plpp_video

Video: bravo transom repair - Part 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXXI0...ure=plpp_video

Video: bravo transom repair - Part 3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mr4mS...ure=plpp_video

Here are some part numbers including special tools::
816431A1 Driveshaft bellows kit
91-43577 Driveshaft bellows sleeve driver
29845 Driveshaft O-rings

18654A1 Exhaust bellows kit
92-86166Q 1 Bellows adhesive

43437 Raw water inlet hose
41674 Raw water inlet hose insert
91-43579 Raw water inlet hose insert tool
44108 1 Raw water inlet house transom gasket

Shift cable outer housing
Shift cable inner core
74639AZ Shift cable bellows
91-17262 Shift cable adjustment tool
91-17263 Shift cable plate, special tool

94996A2 Bell housing to upper unit seals
879194A01 Gimbal bearing
88416 Gimbal bearing oil seal

59362T1 Raw water pump impeller


Oh, BTW … THT rocks.
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Old 04-23-2012, 01:09 PM
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Default Disassembly - removing the outdrive

Disassembly - removing the outdrive

Find the drive lube tube inside the engine compartment and block it off. That way, when you remove the leg, your drive lube doesn’t get everywhere.


Unscrew the plastic caps on the trim cylinders


Here is what the threaded rod looks like that holds onto the trim cylinders on the lower leg


Use a prybar to prop the leg up a bit, this will straighten the U-joint and make it easier to remove and install.


Remove the 6 bolts that connects the upper drive to the bell housing


Leave a couple of nut loose … that way, when you are prying off the leg, it doesn’t POP off. This ain’t no Alpha 1, the Bravo’s are heavy!


Wedge a 2x4 between the upper leg and the gimbal ring, then lift the leg. This will pry the leg away from the bell housing. Remember, leave a couple of bolts in place to make sure the leg wont fly off the studs in the bellhousing.


Ok, well this step can be a bit tricky I guess... you’re going to need something to be able to support the leg. It weights probably a couple hundred pounds, at minimum, get another person to help you. I built myself a really nice leg dolly.


At this point, there are a few things that need to come apart before you completely separate the leg from the bell housing. First, pull it back and make sure the shift cable end unlatches from the clamp in the upper leg. SOmetimes you have to encourage it a bit with a screwdriver.


Look down the middle of the leg disconnect the speedometer tube. Use a screwdriver or small prybar for this. A bottle of WD-40 can help too.


Finished: the upper and lower leg is completely removed from the bell housing.


Here is a picture of the bellhousing. YOu can see the driveshaft bellows, exhaust bellows and shift bellows are still assembled. You can check the gimbal bearing. The raw water intake is on the bottom left. The shift cable is on the bottom right, and the drive lube connection is on the right side between the studs.

Next: Bellhousing removal.

Last edited by makonnen; 05-09-2013 at 01:11 AM.
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Old 04-23-2012, 01:32 PM
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I've done a thru-hull on my 290 Sundancer to rid it of the infamous 5/8" line in the transom assembly. I chased a warming engine problem for MONTHS because of that. It didn't help the boat was a trailer boat and would only heat up when run in the water. Ran fine on the hose.


That transom water hose bottle neck is the about the stupidest idea I have seen from mercruiser.

Yes, it was an early B3 leg with the uncoated bearing carrier, also.
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Old 04-23-2012, 01:33 PM
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LOL, and I did these buy myself. Not recommended. The B3 is heavy and awkward.
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Old 04-23-2012, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makonnen View Post
Disassembly - removing the outdrive

Find the drive lube tube inside the engine compartment and block it off. That way, when you remove the leg, your drive lube doesn’t get everywhere.
Unnessecary! Skip this step! There´s a checkvalve in the gimbal housing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by makonnen View Post
Wedge a 2x4 between the upper leg and the gimbal ring, then lift the leg. This will pry the leg away from the bell housing. Remember, leave a couple of bolts in place to make sure the leg wont fly off the studs in the bellhousing.
Never had a leg fly off... the Bravo is far to heavy....


Quote:
Originally Posted by makonnen View Post
Look down the middle of the leg disconnect the speedometer tube. Use a screwdriver or small prybar for this.
removing the speedotube is the first and the last step in removing installing a drive, if you want to keep all your fingers intact!

BTW, why is your drive so badly coroded?

And on 5.7l Engines you should use the exhaust tube instead of the bellow! On the 350mag and lager + Diesel it is mandatory!
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Old 04-23-2012, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by divefreak View Post
Unnessecary! Skip this step! There´s a checkvalve in the gimbal housing.



Never had a leg fly off... the Bravo is far to heavy....




removing the speedotube is the first and the last step in removing installing a drive, if you want to keep all your fingers intact!

BTW, why is your drive so badly coroded?

That last part is funny. "why is your b3 so corroded?"

I don't think you've seen too many bravo 3's. They rot in salt water and docks something fierce if the older non coated carriers and some stray current from other boaters.
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Old 04-23-2012, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shore View Post
That last part is funny. "why is your b3 so corroded?"

I don't think you've seen too many bravo 3's. They rot in salt water and docks something fierce if the older non coated carriers and some stray current from other boaters.
I´ve seen enough of them, really

you know ,what i do for my living ?

Most cases are due to bad maintenace (yes sometimes from the neigbours boat)!
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Old 04-23-2012, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by divefreak View Post
Unnessecary! Skip this step! There´s a checkvalve in the gimbal housing.



Never had a leg fly off... the Bravo is far to heavy....




removing the speedotube is the first and the last step in removing installing a drive, if you want to keep all your fingers intact!

BTW, why is your drive so badly coroded?

And on 5.7l Engines you should use the exhaust tube instead of the bellow! On the 350mag and lager + Diesel it is mandatory!
haha because its a Bravo 3? XD
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Old 04-23-2012, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by divefreak View Post
I´ve seen enough of them, really

you know ,what i do for my living ?

Most cases are due to bad maintenace (yes sometimes from the neigbours boat)!
I'm only a garage mechanic but I've had a few and they are hit or miss. Mostly rotted carrier's.


No disrespect meant.
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Old 04-23-2012, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by divefreak View Post
Unnessecary! Skip this step! There´s a checkvalve in the gimbal housing.



Never had a leg fly off... the Bravo is far to heavy....




removing the speedotube is the first and the last step in removing installing a drive, if you want to keep all your fingers intact!

BTW, why is your drive so badly coroded?

And on 5.7l Engines you should use the exhaust tube instead of the bellow! On the 350mag and lager + Diesel it is mandatory!
Good advice ... thanks.

As for the leg flying off, better safe than sorry.
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Old 04-23-2012, 02:55 PM
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Default Inspecting the bellhousing and driveshaft - what to look for

Inspecting the bellhousing and driveshaft - what to look for

So with the leg separated from the bell housing, now is a good time to inspect the condition of the bellows and universal joint.

Visually inspect the universal joint for problems, rust (indicating a leaky bellows). Now is a good time to lube the u-joints before you forget to do it on reassembly.


Clean off some of the grease have a closer look. Grab the U-joint, twist turn and feel for smooth operation, no roughness or binding. No abnormal play ... but these things are usually a problem only when the u-joint is under load. Still can't hurt to check.


Check the driveshaft near the end that goes to the motor ... there is a grease seal lip that rides on it. Feel for any wear / ridges in this area.


Cleanup of course is next but I'm going to disassemble the bell housing first.
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Old 04-23-2012, 05:34 PM
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I know you have a bunch of corrosion, probably from stray currents from other boats. In a few of the pics I can see what looks like the clear coat peeling off. I had a B3 a few years ago and it would always look like that. even the S/S props would skim over and get dull. Mercruiser told me it was calcium building up. I started using snobowl toilet bowl cleaner on it with an old tooth brush. It would come off very easy and looked almost brand new.
I don't think yours is going to look new, but it may help.
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Old 04-23-2012, 08:24 PM
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Default Removing the bell housing assembly

Removing the bell housing assembly

Remove the trim senders with a phillips screwdriver. Careful, its easy to strip the screw threads. I'd recommend use a pick to scrape out the junk in the screw head ... if it starts to strip then use a vise grip instead of a phillips screwdriver. Lots of WD40


Remove the trim cylinders from the bellhousing


Using a longbody socket, remove the brass nut holding the shift cable housing to the bell housing. The socket will reach if you don't pop it on the ratchet all the way (look at the picture)


This little clip holds onto the speedometer tube


Use a hammer and prybar to remove the driveshaft bellows retainer ring


Remove the plastic retainer that spreads the raw water tube outward to fit into the bellhousing. There is a special tool for this. You may consider leaving this in place if you are not planning to replace the raw water tube. Its very difficult to replace this tube because you have to access the other end from the INSIDE of the engine compartment. Its almost always blocked by the engine.


Here's the fun part. You'll need special tool 91-78310 to remove the hinge pins. Don't skimp on it, the tool is only $20. You can see it inside the hinge pin itself.


The hinge pins can be REALLY TIGHT! I mean take a look at the special tool to remove it... look at all the surface area contacting the inside of the hinge pin head. You will need to chain the bell housing to the gimbal ring to remove the port side hinge pin. I had to use a 4' breaker bar. You can spray penetrating oil on the threads from the inside of the bell housing. Have fun!


Here is what it look like with the bell housing removed.


The bellhousing itself



Last edited by makonnen; 04-23-2012 at 08:41 PM.
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Old 04-23-2012, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shore View Post
I'm only a garage mechanic but I've had a few and they are hit or miss. Mostly rotted carrier's.


No disrespect meant.
I´ve seen enough rottet Bravo 3 and other drives too!

The old B3 had their share of problems, but a bad/uncoatet carrier will not cause the whole drive + transom to corode.

As long as the paint and bonding cables stays intact, you use trilux on the drive and the boat (at least the transom 3-4 square feet around the drive) and original Mercruiser Anodes you will find little to 0 corrosion on the drives! And a correctly installed AC System helps too.

Even the old Volvo drives (290 DP to DP-E) needed addtional Anodes whit SS-Props!
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