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Old 03-27-2012, 01:30 AM
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Default Bravo III bellhousing disassembly: lube tube and shift cable?

Quick question about the lube tube on a Bravo III bellhousing ...

Does the lube tube (circled in green) have to be removed from the front or the back? I'm not seeing how to separate the tube from the bellhousing.

Also, is there a way to remove the shift cable FROM the bellhousing without disassembling the shift cable on the engine? I see there is a nut there but it doesn't look like it fits over the end of the shift cable.

Thanks!

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Old 03-27-2012, 07:55 AM
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There is a rubber hose that connects to the back of the bellhousing to the transom assembly. This is for the gear lube. It is most easily disconnected after the bellows and hinge pins have been removed.

The brass nut you see is part of the outer sleeve of the shift cable. There is a special socket that is used to remove it. The inner cable can be pulled out after the square stop screws are loosened on the plastic part that connects to the engine.

I am not sure what you are doing to the boat. Are you replacing the bellows? It is not a bad job if you know exactly what order to do everything. If you don't know you are in store for a lot of aggravation!
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Old 03-27-2012, 08:14 AM
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I think this is the same as the Bravo two. Both should have a nut that holds them in place which you have circled. You cannot see a nut holding them on? If I remember correctly I just use a extended socket.
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Old 03-27-2012, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by life is good View Post
There is a rubber hose that connects to the back of the bellhousing to the transom assembly. This is for the gear lube. It is most easily disconnected after the bellows and hinge pins have been removed.

The brass nut you see is part of the outer sleeve of the shift cable. There is a special socket that is used to remove it. The inner cable can be pulled out after the square stop screws are loosened on the plastic part that connects to the engine.

I am not sure what you are doing to the boat. Are you replacing the bellows? It is not a bad job if you know exactly what order to do everything. If you don't know you are in store for a lot of aggravation!
Yea I just got this boat and I'm doing a complete outdrive service / inspection. So what order do you recommend everything be installed?

I'm doing all the bellows, water pickup tube and possibly shift cable and gimbal bearing too. I'm an auto mechanic and I do a lot of engine mechanical so I'm not afraid of the big jobs. But outdrives are fairly new to me.

I've been following these videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3Ow5...&lf=plpp_video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXXI0...&lf=plpp_video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mr4mS...&lf=plpp_video
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Old 03-27-2012, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishingfun View Post
I think this is the same as the Bravo two. Both should have a nut that holds them in place which you have circled. You cannot see a nut holding them on? If I remember correctly I just use a extended socket.
Correction
After thinking it over the grear lube hose is clamped on the back side and the shift cable has a nut holding it on.
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Old 03-27-2012, 08:39 AM
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You going to need the socket from mercruiser to remove the pivot pins. If you decide to replace the gimble bearing (I would if your going that far) you can get a bearing puller from Auto Zone That will fit in the hole for the shaft. Its a slide hammer but it pops out with a few hits. The bearing went back in pretty easy. MAKE SURE YOU USE PLENTY OF BOOT GLUE WHEN INSTALLING GIMBLE BOOT.
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Old 03-27-2012, 08:50 AM
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Thanks guys for the tips. I have the special pin puller tool from Merc. Those things were TIGHT! I had to chain down the bellhousing to the gimbal ring so it didn't rotate when I used my monster breaker bar to remove those hitch pins. Impact gun was useless as the bellhousing rotates to soak up all the force of the impact. I was thinking next time I should break loose the hinge pins before disconnecting the trim cylinders. But on second though I wouldn't want to exert that kind of force on a hydraulic cylinder.

I have all sorts of bearing pullers to do the job. Gimbal shouldn't be a problem.

So what do you guys recommend as the order of installation?? I was going to go lube tube first, then bellows, water hose and shift cable.
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:32 AM
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I would recommend spending the $35 for the manual as it has a whole section on this.
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Old 03-28-2012, 12:59 PM
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Here is a link. They have been pulled from the internet a few times. I wouls save a copy

In the outline you will see where it says Section 1General Information Section 2 Removal instalation and adjustments... Ect... You can click on each section and save them
http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Servmanl/11/11covr5x.pdf
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Old 03-28-2012, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makonnen View Post
..... possibly shift cable and gimbal bearing too
I would remove the 'possibly' from this thought
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Old 03-28-2012, 03:13 PM
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Make sure you line up the grease hole on the bearing when you put it back in. Often overlooked.

I rented a axle bearing puller to get my gimbal out. Broke all the other pullers.
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Old 03-29-2012, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shore View Post
Make sure you line up the grease hole on the bearing when you put it back in. Often overlooked.

I rented a axle bearing puller to get my gimbal out. Broke all the other pullers.
Yea the gimbal bearing was tight, but I managed to get it out with slide hammer. I do know about the grease hole lining up with the transom housing channel.

Thanks.
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Old 03-29-2012, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by two-rocks View Post
I would remove the 'possibly' from this thought
Thats right, definately doing the shift cable ... both the outer housing and the inner core.

Looks practically impossible to change the raw water hose. So I guess I'll be re-using it. Also I don't want to risk messing up the drive lube tube so I will leave that too. I would have liked to change it.

Actually my thoughts on the raw water hose, is why does it have to go through the transom housing, bell housing and through the leg. It seems pretty complicated. Why can't I have a through-hull supplying raw seawater through a strainer (similar to that in the bottom leg)?

I'm actually thinking about doing this maybe next time I do a leg-off service.
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Old 03-29-2012, 07:02 PM
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Some boats do use a sea-strainer to provide water to the motor rather than using the ooutdrive to send it. Either works fine.
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