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Old 01-24-2012, 04:21 PM
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Default Evinrude 90 HP V4 VRO Questions

Hey everyone.

New member and first time boat owner here.

I just picked my 1991 Pro-Line 17' Center Console / Evinrude 90 HP VRO boat!!!

It was a friend's brothers and I got it for virtually nothing. It has cleaned up nice even though the finish is oxidized since it has been sitting outside uncovered for 4 years. His brother was the original owner. It has only been used about 60 hours. It has not been started in 4 years also.
I am planning to get the motor running this weekend. I am sure that the fuel in the tank is bad and contaminated so I plan to use an alternate tank and gravity feed the motor.

I called Evinrude today and was told that I do not have to unhook the VRO system and to just mix the fuel I plan to gravity feed 50-1. And that I should be fine for a couple hours of running time

That seems a little lean to me.

I do plan to disable the VRO system latter.

Will this procedure that I was told from Evinrude present any problems?

I just want to make sure I do not do any damage

Is there anything else I should do besides checking and cleaning everything electrical and replacing any internal fluids in the motor before I try to start it?

The motor turns over manually and seems to have very good compression.

Thanks in advance!!!!!
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Old 01-24-2012, 04:33 PM
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First step: Disconnect the VRO no questions asked..
Second step: Make sure VRO is disconnected..

Rebuild the carbs for sure.
Change waterpump (Brand new waterpump, not just an impeller)
Change lower unit oil.
You will not be gravity feeding anything... The fuel pumps pull the fuel into the engine
Go to your local marine supply, buy a can of corrosion x and douse the entire engine, pull the plugs and give a little shot of it in the cyl...
50:1 is the correct ratio for that engine, a little extra wont hurt especially on the first tankfull.. Remember extra is ok, Not enough is suicide....
-Disconnect VRO... (they sell a kit to plug it off and it only takes a few min to do..)
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Old 01-24-2012, 05:15 PM
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Why do you hate the vro so much?
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Old 01-24-2012, 06:46 PM
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Thanks!!!

I do not trust any oil injection systems after my wife's Yamaha Blaster ATV locked up while I was riding it. The oil reservoir was 3/4 filled.
Wasn't even 20 hours on it. Cost me over $400 in parts!!!!

And my buddy's SeaDoo GSX burned up after the oil injection system went out on that.

Where can I get the kit for the VRO? There is a West Marine a few miles away.
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Old 01-25-2012, 08:57 AM
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I recently picked up a 00 McKee 18 with a 1999 V4 carbed Johnson VRO 115 HP and had the same debate. A lot depends on how you use the engine if you do a lot of idle it will foul plugs @ 50/1 less of an issue if you run wide open. You might find article below of interest.

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/VRO.html

As mine has the system check to monitor both oil level and no oil to engine I elected to leave the system in place. My System check lights come on at start up and I confirm this each time I start boat. IF I get a no oil light I will shut engine down and I always carry 1 gallon of oil so I can mix 50/1 if I have a failure.

Yours engine has a horn and it has a special sequence for no oil and a different for low oil. I suggest you keep VRO but make sure you understand the warning system and check it each time out.
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Old 01-25-2012, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v12mac View Post
Why do you hate the vro so much?
Ever lose an engine because one decided to quit?
Thats why I hate them so much.
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Old 01-25-2012, 08:14 PM
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Best bet is a bombardier dealer... Im pretty sure the block off kit is under ten bucks...

The older engines vro's were imho total junk... I personally think that the newer systems have improved, but I also had an '01 90hp with oil injection, bought it factory new, at about 100hrs it was working great till one day it stopped working... New complete powerhead from OMC at the time and I left it connected, no issues the 2nd time around...
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'67 Bertram 31' FBC "Summer Winds"
'79 Bertram 31' SEDAN (Cummins)
'76 Bertram 28' 351's (For Sale)
'79 Bertram 35' 3116
1999 Boston Whaler 28' Conquest 2x ox66 (Sold)

-50 Ton master.
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Old 01-26-2012, 05:03 AM
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If you are going to go premix my understanding is the best solution is to replace the pump. I beleive the pump you want is 0433387 and it replaces the VRO pump. Johnson made your same engine with out the VRO it was called the 88 special. The part number is the fuel pump for that engine and is a bolt on replacment. If you replace the pump you don't have to worry about sucking air or inducing debries into the system.
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:12 PM
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after the carbs are rebuilt make sure you have a new water fuel seperater. Raycor makes a good one. Get one that has a see through bowl that easily spins off to get rid of any water. Also, a good fuel stabilizer is a good idea.This is all good , cheap, preventive mantainence. Also, in addition to rebuilding the water pump , just make sure your thermostats open up by observing water coming out by the the lower end export holes. ( should be right above the cavitation plate )
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Old 04-05-2012, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andeRob View Post
Hey everyone.

New member and first time boat owner here.

I just picked my 1991 Pro-Line 17' Center Console / Evinrude 90 HP VRO boat!!!

It was a friend's brothers and I got it for virtually nothing. It has cleaned up nice even though the finish is oxidized since it has been sitting outside uncovered for 4 years. His brother was the original owner. It has only been used about 60 hours. It has not been started in 4 years also.
I am planning to get the motor running this weekend. I am sure that the fuel in the tank is bad and contaminated so I plan to use an alternate tank and gravity feed the motor.

I called Evinrude today and was told that I do not have to unhook the VRO system and to just mix the fuel I plan to gravity feed 50-1. And that I should be fine for a couple hours of running time

That seems a little lean to me.

I do plan to disable the VRO system latter.

Will this procedure that I was told from Evinrude present any problems?

I just want to make sure I do not do any damage

Is there anything else I should do besides checking and cleaning everything electrical and replacing any internal fluids in the motor before I try to start it?

The motor turns over manually and seems to have very good compression.

Thanks in advance!!!!!
I kept the OMS system, they stopped the VRO yrs ago.
If bypassed you lose some features such as the alarm system.

I would do a complete servicing before starting it, do everything, heres what I did.
rebuild carbs with new kits,
compresion test so you know what the condition is,
spark test it.
Change the lower gear oil, use NEW seals on drain plugs or expect water in the gears. Remove prop, clean shaft, check for fishing line, relube and install prop.
Change fuel filter on the engine,
add tilt fluid.
Lube the steering tube and tilt tube, all pivot points.
DRain oil tank, refill, purge line of air before connecting to engine, add oil to fuel tank until you are certain the oil level is drawing down in the oil reservoir.
Remove , clean, reinstall with dialectric grease all major connections starting from battery, if it uses wing nuts THROW them as far as you can and buy proper nuts with spring washers, all stainless.
Install new sparkplugs, use the correct champion plugs, not NGK bandaid plugs.

Get the factory service book, read it through, don't rely on internet opinions, then try starting it on the water hose, expect rpm to be high, 1000rpm is normal.

I did all that and mine runs like a clock.
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Keep them on the board so we can all learn.

Evinrude factory repair manuals.
http://stores.ebay.com/SEARAYMAN13/E...=p4634.c0.m322
(not mine)
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Old 04-05-2012, 11:44 PM
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I would fog the cylinders and let it sit to loosen any crux off the rings.
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Old 04-06-2012, 04:06 AM
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Back in the mid-90s, I had a 1990 90hp with VRO. Never had a problem with the VRO during the several years I owned the boat.

There is nothing wrong with pre-mix in the tank while the VRO is still active. Actually, that is what your supposed to do after you overhaul or maintain the VRO system, until you verify the VRO is working properly. It will actually result in a slightly leaner fuel as there will be less gas in the fuel / oil mixture that is going into the intake. But you should be fine.

50:1 is the correct ratio.

If your planning on keeping your VRO, here's what I would do. Clean out, and repace the filter in the oil resivoir. Replace the oil line from the resivoir to the motor. It might be the old vinyl line and they crack. Check all of the "C" shaped ratchet clamps under the cowling. Mine started to break on their own. They just get old and brittle. After you've done what I mentioned, you have to bleed the air out of the oil line. Get use the primer bulb on the oil line to get the oil all the way to the end of the oil line before you install it. Use pre-mix until you verify the VRO is working. There's a sight glass you can view the oil passing up into the VRO. If the sight glass is the color of the oil, the VRO is drawing oil from the tank. If the sight glass is clear, there's something wrong and it's not drawing oil.

There was a really good article about VRO awhile back in Trailer Boats magazine. I have a hard copy of it. Supposedly, the really bad years for VRO were the first year or two after it came out. I think it came out in '86.

I also have a 60hp that I disconnected the VRO. Not because I didn't trust it, just because I have 2 motors on the boat, one was pre-mix and the other injected. I didn't like having to have two seperate fuel tanks so I disconnected the VRO from the 60hp.
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Old 04-06-2012, 04:27 AM
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I bought a 120 Johnson new in 1991- bigger block V4. It gets plenty of use and still has the original VRO. I have logged every gallon of fuel and oil consumed over the lifetime of the motor. The long-term average is almost exactly 50:1.

Pre-mix 50:1 fuel/oil mix is what the OMC manual instructs owners to use after breaking open the oil plumbing on the VRO. The pre-mix ensures the motor has sufficient oil in case the VRO is not pumping oil. That mix should be used until you are certain the VRO is pumping oil (level in the tank drops).

Some people fear the VRO, saying it pumps too much or too little oil. My experience- too much oil means one of two things have happened:
- The owner has switched to a lower viscosity (i.e., synthetic) 2-stroke oil that the VRO pumps faster. The VRO was designed in a world where OMC only sold 1 grade of 2-stroke oil. Run XD-30 in a VRO system.
- The fuel line has cracks or leaks on the suction side of the pump, admitting air in the fuel stream and upsetting the fuel-oil ratio.

If the VRO is pumping too little oil, check the oil lines for the same cracks and leaks for the same basic reason. Pull the VRO oil reservoir and clean or replace the filter on the pickup end of the oil line.

There is a pulse dampener screwed into the block with a hose fitting to provide pressure pulses to drive the VRO. The original pulse dampeners were black. An improved dampener is available, colored blue. Replace the black pulse dampener with the blue one. My dealer kept both black and blue pulse dampeners under the same part #.

Your '91 VRO is probably a VRO-2, which has ethanol-compatible components.
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yarcraft91 View Post
... My experience- too much oil means one of two things have happened:
- The owner has switched to a lower viscosity (i.e., synthetic) 2-stroke oil that the VRO pumps faster. The VRO was designed in a world where OMC only sold 1 grade of 2-stroke oil. Run XD-30 in a VRO system...
The oil pump is a positive-displacement (piston) pump, so lower viscosity oil would not pump faster. If anything it would pump less (more leakage around the piston) but for the low pressures involved it would be insignificant.
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Old 04-06-2012, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yarcraft91 View Post
- The fuel line has cracks or leaks on the suction side of the pump, admitting air in the fuel stream and upsetting the fuel-oil ratio.

.
If there a fuel leak the oil pump will cycle faster, it will cause it to over-oil to protect the cyl's from melting, thats a big reason to keep the oiling system.
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Keep them on the board so we can all learn.

Evinrude factory repair manuals.
http://stores.ebay.com/SEARAYMAN13/E...=p4634.c0.m322
(not mine)
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Old 04-06-2012, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drkptt View Post
The oil pump is a positive-displacement (piston) pump, so lower viscosity oil would not pump faster. If anything it would pump less (more leakage around the piston) but for the low pressures involved it would be insignificant.
True, this video demonstrates why the oil pump over oils the fuel system.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SEbW-6eOc5I
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Sorry, I don't answer engine questions privately.
Keep them on the board so we can all learn.

Evinrude factory repair manuals.
http://stores.ebay.com/SEARAYMAN13/E...=p4634.c0.m322
(not mine)
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Old 04-01-2014, 06:16 PM
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Default johnson 100hp commercial, VRO, 2 stroke outboard

Test, just sent a huge response but can not find it........
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Old 07-24-2014, 11:48 AM
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The VRO is already disconnected on my '86 Johnson 90hp motor, any reason not to remove the oil tank at the rear of the boat as well?
I'm thinking of replacing that area with an extra storage hatch instead, maybe rope, supplies, tools, etc. on my '95 Proline.
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