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Old 07-17-2011, 07:03 AM
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Default 3 More FICHT questions, decarb, plugs and compression

I have a year 2000 Evinrude 200 hp Ram FICHT. 73 hours on the motor by the dealer software.
I checked the compression. I got 105,105,102,105,108,105 on the six cylinders.
Should I be happy about the low variation in compression, or nervous because the compression is on the low side?

I changed and indexed the plugs with the iridium QC10WEP.
The emission label says champion 7712 (which were in the motor),
This chart says QC12PEP
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/ref...gChart2007.pdf
and I have seen QC10WEP recommended on this forum.
Am I good with the QC10WEP?

I did the Dunk's decarb method. Although there was some carbon on the plugs and small amounts of carbon on the propeller exhaust, I got no smoke or carbon deposits from the motor during the decarb. Should I be satisfied that it is has little carbon or consider trying OMC engine tuner?

Thanks for your opinions.
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Old 07-17-2011, 07:08 AM
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The 7712 plugs were only used until Champion finally got the others into production. They didn't last long either. If the motor got the upgrade package back in its day, they should have put the new EPA label on the motor.
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Old 07-17-2011, 07:26 AM
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Thanks, Seahorse. So I am good with these plugs.
I am not sure what to do about the upgrade. After reading advice on THT, I called BRP with my model and serial number, and they advised there were no upgrades or recalls on this motor (200FPLSS)
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Old 07-17-2011, 07:41 AM
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I had a pair of 1998 150's, the factory tech's did mine and then BRP took over not too long after that. I don't recall any stickers or even paperwork. I can't imagine it not being done back then, anyone that had a Ficht was up in arms when OMC went under. I though the 175's were the bulk of the problem, mine ran fine before the upgrade.
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Old 07-17-2011, 09:41 AM
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If you look in the factory service book for compression numbers , there aren't any.!
Its the "spread" that counts. Yours are all clustered , which is great.
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Evinrude factory repair manuals.
http://stores.ebay.com/SEARAYMAN13/E...=p4634.c0.m322
(not mine)
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Old 07-17-2011, 09:48 AM
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My last evinrude tech lived by omc tuner. He still runs a 97 175 ficht and claims he's never had a problem with it. I ran it for about 15 gallons and mine started to have overheat issues which he stated was normal during the decarb. I call BS and I've since gone Honda on my current boat.
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Old 07-17-2011, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danport View Post
Thanks, Seahorse. So I am good with these plugs.
I am not sure what to do about the upgrade. After reading advice on THT, I called BRP with my model and serial number, and they advised there were no upgrades or recalls on this motor (200FPLSS)

then that means that is was done, or should have been. What size socket is needed to remove the 2 bolts holding the injectors to the cylinderheads? 3/8" or 1/2"?
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Old 07-17-2011, 11:14 AM
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Wouldn't expect a lot of carbon with only 73 hours on the engine if I'm reading that correctly. QC10WEP gapped at .028 and indexed,XD50 only,change lower leg oil once a season and keep the motor out of any shell or mud that will block the cooling line to the computer(EMM)
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Old 07-17-2011, 11:22 AM
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Also I believe there some sort of defect with the fuel rails or a fitting on the fuel rails that should be upgraded so the motor won't leak fuel and possibly explode.

Copied from old THT post

"On your motor looking from the rear, there is a black cylindrical device in the center, upper half -- that is your fuel cooler/vapor separator. Connected to the bottom, right hand side, is the fuel return line and in the line is a pressure test port. If it is a Schrader style valve (looks like a bicycle or car tire valve), talk to your dealer about getting it replaced because they HAVE changed the design which means they know there is a problem. I'm not sure when the design change occurred."
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Old 07-17-2011, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenner21 View Post
Also I believe there some sort of defect with the fuel rails or a fitting on the fuel rails that should be upgraded so the motor won't leak fuel and possibly explode.

Copied from old THT post

"On your motor looking from the rear, there is a black cylindrical device in the center, upper half -- that is your fuel cooler/vapor separator. Connected to the bottom, right hand side, is the fuel return line and in the line is a pressure test port. If it is a Schrader style valve (looks like a bicycle or car tire valve), talk to your dealer about getting it replaced because they HAVE changed the design which means they know there is a problem. I'm not sure when the design change occurred."
i have seen this numerous time yet cannot find it, mind posting a pic?
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Old 07-17-2011, 11:49 AM
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There are some pictures on this link...I'm just copying and pasting.

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-...cowling-2.html
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Old 07-17-2011, 02:50 PM
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DFI's don't produce carbon like carbed - compression is fine - I would locate that water line for the EMM so that you can check it from time too time, There seemed to be a couple of those motors that had issues and others not
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Old 07-17-2011, 04:15 PM
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dang...i got the SCHRADER valve type...i called the dealer when i first purchased the boat and they said it had all the upgrades done, even had the EMM changed under warranty. Weird thing is when they read my serial/vin for the motor, it came up as a 200 not a 175....werid...



is this covered ? or will it be service charge?
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Old 07-17-2011, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by booyagasha View Post
dang...i got the SCHRADER valve type...i called the dealer when i first purchased the boat and they said it had all the upgrades done, even had the EMM changed under warranty. Weird thing is when they read my serial/vin for the motor, it came up as a 200 not a 175....werid...



is this covered ? or will it be service charge?
Service charge. Get it replaced! Everyone on my dock that had one of these valves has had it fail.
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Old 07-17-2011, 05:11 PM
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looks like she'll be in the shop soon...glad you guys helped me catch this before something happens
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Old 07-17-2011, 06:39 PM
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they spelled it wrong.......should be fuct.............not fict

had a pair of 2000's......replaced with etecs a while back....sorry to hear the same ancient problems are still haunting other boaters
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Old 07-17-2011, 06:57 PM
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Seahorse, the bolts on the fuel injectors are 1/2 inch. I think this means the upgrade was done. Picture attached.
I have attached pictures of what I think is the schrader valve and it's location. It looks dry to me now, no visible leaks. I have heard it can leak and cause an explosion. What should I replace it with? Can I just remove it and put in a nipple connection?
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Old 07-17-2011, 07:16 PM
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Wait a minute, I don't have the black cylinder fuel cooler/vapor separator on the rear of my motor that booyagasha has pictured. The schrader type valve on my motor is in an entirely different location as shown in my photos. Is this valve a concern?
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Old 07-17-2011, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danport View Post
Wait a minute, I don't have the black cylinder fuel cooler/vapor separator on the rear of my motor that booyagasha has pictured. The schrader type valve on my motor is in an entirely different location as shown in my photos. Is this valve a concern?

The pictured engine you are referring to with the different plumbing is a 60 block V-6, completely different than yours.

Your engine has the upgrade kit already installed, that is why I asked about the bolt hex size.
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Old 07-18-2011, 04:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danport View Post
Seahorse, the bolts on the fuel injectors are 1/2 inch. I think this means the upgrade was done. Picture attached.
I have attached pictures of what I think is the schrader valve and it's location. It looks dry to me now, no visible leaks. I have heard it can leak and cause an explosion. What should I replace it with? Can I just remove it and put in a nipple connection?
It doesn't start leaking providing evidence of a failure. Instead, the joint between the brass valve and the plastic tee just fails and the brass valve pops out. Get it replaced!
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