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Old 06-16-2011, 06:16 PM
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Default 1987 evinrude 150 max rpm 2500?

I just got the ignition fixed, coil packs, regulator rectifier, stater, tune up. The compression test was within 5 lbs on all 6. I got it to spark constantly with the timing light on it.

I finality got it to idle in the water some what enough for me to get it into gear, it did fine on the ears but would not start in the water before. It still has a problem running at idle in the water , worse after i took it out.

When I took it out I came out of the marina and eased on the throttle and got it wide open and it was only turning 2500 rpm. I took the hood off and the buttery flys opened all the way.I pumped the ball on the fuel line nothing changed.

I got the boat back home and pulled the fuel line off and it flowed fuel well. Next I Pulled the carbs off and found the emulsion tubes cracked. Their was a white milky film in the bottom of the carbs, not much. The fuel tank was drained and the water separator was clear and cleaned before I took the boat out, roughly a month.
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Old 06-17-2011, 07:24 AM
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The engine revs past 2500 while in neutral.
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Old 06-18-2011, 01:00 PM
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Clean the tubes thoroughly and silver solder them.
Try it again but don't rev it up on a hose, you can throw a rod doing that very easily, it needs to be under load in the water.

Not wanting to start in the water is a sign the ignition may be weak, a timing light isn't as good as a $12 adjustable gap spark tester from any decent auto store.
Set the gap to 7/16th inch and look for blue spark, yellow is a fail.
Pic of gap spark tester.
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Old 06-21-2011, 02:23 PM
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I did that and it looked good. Any other ideas?
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Old 06-21-2011, 03:15 PM
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Since the carbs are off, nows a good time to go through them. With your symptoms, they'd be my first guess anyways.
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Old 06-21-2011, 04:01 PM
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I did that and it looked good. Any other ideas?
Did what?
silver soldered the tubes and spark tested it?

If yes, rebuild carbs with kits if not done already.
Test run it and use a timing light to see if its dropping spark.

2500rpm is something obvious like powerpack, shift switch, temp sensor wire touching sparkplug leads. If you find dead cyl's during test run using a timing light, try disconnecting the port temp sensor, if spark returns replace sensor.
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Old 06-21-2011, 04:10 PM
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High speed jets in one or more carbs may be plugged. We just went through that on my friends old Evinrude. They were full of pieces fuel line and carb gasket that had been dissolved by ethanol gas.
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Old 06-21-2011, 04:26 PM
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I did the spark test with a hei test plug. The carbs did have some junk in them, I just cleaned them out a few months ago. Do you think the cracked emulsion tubes would do that, limit the rpm. All the electronic are new from cdi. I will check to see if any of the temp sensor wires are rubbing and or chafed hear in a minute.
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Old 06-21-2011, 05:33 PM
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I just checked the wires and they all looked good. I have not had a chance to clean the carbs again, when a temp sensor goes bad what happens?

Also the alarm does not sound when I turn the key, it does sound when i ground the sensor wires to the block.

What do the power packs do when they limit at 2500 this model engine didnt have the SLOW feature from what I have read. It does not sound like a rev limiter when it hits 2500.
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Old 06-21-2011, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
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I did the spark test with a hei test plug. The carbs did have some junk in them, I just cleaned them out a few months ago. Do you think the cracked emulsion tubes would do that, limit the rpm. All the electronic are new from cdi. I will check to see if any of the temp sensor wires are rubbing and or chafed hear in a minute.
I don't know what hei test plugs are, the spark must jump a 7/16th inch gap, use 2 nails in a peice of wood if you have to. Neon testers are no good.

The cracked tubes have to be soldered, no way around it.
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Old 06-21-2011, 05:57 PM
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I just checked the wires and they all looked good. I have not had a chance to clean the carbs again, when a temp sensor goes bad what happens?

Also the alarm does not sound when I turn the key, it does sound when i ground the sensor wires to the block.

What do the power packs do when they limit at 2500 this model engine didnt have the SLOW feature from what I have read. It does not sound like a rev limiter when it hits 2500.
Yeh it doesn't look like the temp sensor is a problem. If it was bad the alarm would sound or it would trigger SLOW, but it doesn't have that feature and the alarm isn't sounding.

You need to fix the carbs and do a proper spark test, eliminate them , then if its still the same move on to the next thing. Carbs are critical.
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Old 06-21-2011, 06:12 PM
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http://www.amazon.com/KD-Tools-2756-...uct/B0002STSBC

This is the hei test plug.
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Old 06-21-2011, 07:58 PM
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The service book is plain and simple about spark tests, remove all plugs so the engine can spin up. Set the tester to 7/16th inch. I just stick with the service book for simplicity and that way I know my test is good. Without the ability to set the gap, it may be ok , it might be a false reading. The gap is important.
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Old 07-26-2011, 04:15 PM
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Sorry its been a while.
I used the ajustible spark tester with a 7/16 gap it looked good. I also compared the spark to a known running 150 evinrude just a few years older then mine they looked the same.
When I had it out i chocked it and it bogged down wot at 2300-2500 rpm.
I pulled the reed valves out none are damaged. I could see just a small amount of light through them around the edges.
Any opinions would be great thanks
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Old 07-26-2011, 06:22 PM
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Lets recap,
compression is ok you say.
Spark is good.
Its not starving because it bogs when choked.
You rebuilt the carbs.
Fuel is good?

Try disconnecting the temp sensor. If it doesn't change anything..
Then by elimination its the link and sync and/or timing is set wrong.
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Last edited by jonesg; 07-26-2011 at 06:34 PM.
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Old 07-26-2011, 08:10 PM
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Well I took the heads off and the exhaust plate off to see the piston and rings, they are scored badly on the port side. Blows my mind that I did a compression test when I got it and all was good. . Just my luck. the piston ring groves are loose as are the piston to wall clearance. I will see how bad they are when I do the tare down.

Re power? Could part out, I think
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Old 07-28-2011, 08:29 PM
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I'd rebuild it, considering all the elec parts you replaced already.
A marine machine shop can bore it oversize and fit the new pistons for you.

Should cost around $ 600-800 for 3 cyls.
$120 per cyl for machine work and $120 ea piston.
Or get a complete rebuild kit and do the lot.
http://www.powerheadkit.com/johnson.htm

Make sure the crank journals aren't blue before ordering parts.

Looks like maybe the carbs caused this.
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Old 04-21-2012, 07:06 PM
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Well I found the problem. The brand new power pack was wired wrong. the orange center wire was actually the lower coil wire and vice versa. This was a costly pain in the ass.
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Old 04-22-2012, 02:48 AM
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That can't score cyl walls, theres a lack of oil occuring, probably the carbs.
What did you end up deciding to do?
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Evinrude factory repair manuals.
http://stores.ebay.com/SEARAYMAN13/E...=p4634.c0.m322
(not mine)
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Old 05-08-2012, 04:39 PM
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I rebuild the engine because of the scored cylinder walls, also found the second rings to be seized as well. It took .030 to clean it up. After all that it still had the same problem so i put each cylinder at tdc and marked each cylinder on the flywheel where the timing pointer was. And boom the two cylinders were not firing at the right time. I switched the power pack wires and took it out, right on plane 38mph by gps wot.
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