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Random Quote: A man will mind his own business, if it is worth minding.
I have a 1995 Stratos 2250 with a notch transom. I thought for awhile about getting a different boat, but when I looked at what it would cost to get a boat equipped like the boat I have, I was stunned!! With the cost of a new boat in mind, my thoughts turned to the pros and cons of having a full transom and bracket put on my present boat along with a new outboard. I've made quite a few modifications to the original design of my present boat to make it an efficient tournament kingfish boat -removed the bow rail, added 50 gallon livewell, etc. Is it worth the expense to enclose the transom, put on a bracket (Armstrong, Stainless, or Gil), and repower as opposed to the expense of getting an all new boat/motor? Thanks!
After you lower the motor there probably is room on the notch to mount a long cooler to use this area and flatten your transom. A long rigging table can be mounted to the top of the cooler, and this will bridge the distance from the transom to the motors creating a supporting surface to slide your extended forearms along when extending the rod tip out over the motor to keep your line farther away from the props. The cooler also bounces motor noise back away from the passengers.
Hope this helps.
Remember, that raising the notch will prevent water from draining quickly out of your boat if you take a big wave. If a second wave hits and you are still full of water, you're sunk.
Since we were last talking about our boats (I've got a 1992 2250) the guy I bought it from sent me a folder of all the stuff about the boat he accumulated over the years. Included was a pair of catalogs. One for the Stratos series and one for the Stratos Bluewater series. You had asked why your transom was rated for 225 while mine was rated for 300. The answer is: you've got the non-Bluewater version. The relevance to your original post is*in the non-Bluewater catalog there is a picture of a 2250 with an enclosed transom and the motor on a bracket.*Apparently you could get the non-Bluewater series with or without a full transom. I don't have*a scanner at home but I'll bring the catalog to work and scan it for posting here. It looks really cool with the bracket!*
ChemGuy -
Thanks for that information. I'm looking forward to seeing the picture of a 2250 with a bracket when you get a chance to put it on here. Your post has got me wondering now what other features, besides the massive difference in max HP rating between your boat and mine, might be part of the "Bluewater" series that isn't part of my boat.
Close off your transom and flush to your deck build two scuppers about 2" tall and 12" wide ... your deck should be above water !!!
they should be a open window as per say!!!
enjoy all the new found room and the quietness of having the outboard behond a wall !!!
All the specs are exactly the same save for dry hull weight. Stratos = 2700 lbs, Stratos BW = 3200. In addition the BW series uses Kevlar in the layup. I took a pic of the catalog page with my digital camera.
I just got my D&D marine twin bracket in the mail friday and it sure is pretty looking. My transom had already been enclosed but had a bracketed single 250, it is an 81 aquasport which origionally came with the notched transom. I like it alot with it enclosed. I am moving up to either twin 140 zukis or 150 yamis.......Cost and time will tell. I wont be completed until next year with the entire project though. I have to wait for good weather to paint it now......
I don't know if I have a bad case of the "stupid's" here (probably?), but is there - or should there be - any concern for the REDISTRIBUTION of motor WEIGHT (2-3ft. farther ****** by doing this???
I would think it would affect the performance of the boat, but it appears, from the posts, that many other folks are doing this? Maybe trim tabs will/would take care of it?
Bruce , the Tub/Body need's to be large enough to offset the weight of the motor/motors.
Shifting weight foward is a good idea. Moving batteries off the transom to even moving the fuel tank foward.
Thanks for the reponses. I looked at the projects at the classic mako site and don't have the nerve to cut the back of my boat out myself. Just building a stonger full transom won't support the weight of a bracket and 500+ pounds of motor, especially while the boat is on the trailer, unless the new transom is attached to the hull and stringers with some kind of reinforcement. If the person doing the work doesn't do that, I could see the transom separating from the hull. Are most boat yards that do this kind of work aware of what needs to be done and how to do it so the job lasts?
QUOTE: Just building a stonger full transom won't support the weight of a bracket and 500+ pounds of motor, especially while the boat is on the trailer, unless the new transom is attached to the hull and stringers with some kind of reinforcement. If the person doing the work doesn't do that, I could see the transom separating from the hull.
Are you speaking of a particlar boat on the Classic Mako site?
Sorry for the confusion. My reference to the classic mako site was just that I had looked at it, and the extent of the work I saw there was way beyond my ability to do. I'm lucky to change a light bulb! The next sentences I wrote were meant to be about my own boat, not any boat I saw on there.
Since Chemguy's boat weighs 500 pounds more than mine does, and is rated for 75 hp more than mine is, the transom on my version of the Stratos 2250 must be considerably weaker than his. (Just guessing) The additional torque on my transom from the weight of a new 225 hp motor hanging on a bracket could be more than my boat could take. (another guess) Then I was wondering about determining the knowledge and skill of whoever I get to do the transom on my boat, to be sure the job is done right.
Cons:
If you're a DIY'er you need to be mechanically inclined and have the required tools.
You may need to have the transom checked for any water intrusion / rot in the core materials and stringers attaching to the transom before attempting a modification.
Since engine(s) are father back it will be mounted about 3" higher.
Pros:
Engine mounted further back slightly increases performance
Reduces noise
Most brackets have a sealed floatation chamber which increase floatation, this will offset some of the center of gravity issues.
Reduced risk of water over the transom even while backing down.
Mine was converted from I/O to OB, easier to fill holes for I/O mounting than a well because the brackets covers the holes completely.
Remember, that raising the notch will prevent water from draining quickly out of your boat if you take a big wave. If a second wave hits and you are still full of water, you're sunk.
Ive always noticed the exact oppisite. Boats with a notch tend to fill up alot quicker especially when backing down or shutting down in a following sea. Also some of these notched boats have the deck very close to the water line with only a small slpash well, not safe in my opinon.
Enclosing Transom - Pros and Cons? 
Operator error!
