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Old 02-21-2011, 03:48 PM
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Default Kicker motor mounting position

I am putting a 15 hp honda kicker with a 25 inch shaft on my 2001 Baha 272. While doing the measurements I found that I am going to have tough time getting the anti-cavition plate close to the bottom of the boat. My boat sits 16 inches deep in the water and the top of fixed mount I bought will sit about 17 inches above the water line if I mount the bottom right on the water line.

Does a kicker motor need to have the prop below the bottom of the boat for it to work well? The bracket will have the kicker 22" from the back of the boat so there should room for it to pull in water.

I might have to get an adjustable bracket, but that is a last resort.


Here is the bracket and back of the boat
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Last edited by Baha272; 02-21-2011 at 03:58 PM.
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Old 02-21-2011, 03:54 PM
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Red face Kicker

Ideally, the cavitation plate would be at the same level as the bottom of the hull, but many aren't and work. If the motor is set back a little, it will work Okay. Also, many boats are stern heavy, so you find that many kickers are running pretty deep. Occasionally, a wave off the stern can wash over the kicker. (if the stern is heavy.)

Nice looking mount. The worst thing I've seen with kickers, is that hot, dehydrated fishermen take for home at the end of the day, with their kicker still down. The motor is tearing at the water terribly. Some come off.
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Old 02-21-2011, 04:04 PM
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Garelick recommends having the anti-ventilation plate 2 inches above the bottom of the boat.... it will affect your performance in a bumpy sea. I would recommend an adjustable bracket like Garelick's model number 71074:01
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Old 02-21-2011, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by commuter boats View Post
Garelick recommends having the anti-ventilation plate 2 inches above the bottom of the boat.... it will affect your performance in a bumpy sea. I would recommend an adjustable bracket like Garelick's model number 71074:01
I had the adjustable Garelick on the last boat and it worked fine. On the Baha it would be long reach to pull the pull the bracket up. There is 33" inches of boat above the water line, thats why I wanted a fixed bracket so I am not falling over the back of the boat when the water is rough.

The other bad part is that I already have the fixed bracket. It is spendy and came from Canada. Returning it would be a hassle if they would even take it back.

I may have to go back to the Garelick though. I only want to drill one set of holes in the back of the boat.
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Old 02-21-2011, 04:39 PM
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Keep the solid bracket.

Keep asking questions.

Not sure what the answer is.

You salmon trolling?

I got similar bracket from Vancouver, same guy?
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Old 02-21-2011, 04:57 PM
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I could look at mounting the motor off the port side to get it closer to the bottom of the boat. But I am sure it would work better in the center.


The bracket is made by Adventure Marine Surrey BC. It is very well built and nice looking. I wish there was an easy answer. I like doing stuff right the first time.

Yes I troll for salmon and lakers. I have Garmin TR-1 gold auto pilot for the kicker also.
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Old 02-21-2011, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baha272 View Post
I could look at mounting the motor off the port side to get it closer to the bottom of the boat. But I am sure it would work better in the center.


The bracket is made by Adventure Marine Surrey BC. It is very well built and nice looking. I wish there was an easy answer. I like doing stuff right the first time.

Yes I troll for salmon and lakers. I have Garmin TR-1 gold auto pilot for the kicker also.
I'm sorry, I didn't consider what your main propulsion was... most certainly moving it over a few inches will help but you said you have a 25 inch shaft length, mounting the top of your bracket at 25 inches above your keel should work fine for you. My problem with the fixed brackets is that I don't like to run around with my kicker tilted up, the swivel brackets don't hold up. The bracket that I gave up part number for goes up and down 15 1/2 inches and I like that in that the kicker can stay vertical..... my preference
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Old 02-21-2011, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baha272 View Post
I could look at mounting the motor off the port side to get it closer to the bottom of the boat. But I am sure it would work better in the center.


The bracket is made by Adventure Marine Surrey BC. It is very well built and nice looking. I wish there was an easy answer. I like doing stuff right the first time.

Yes I troll for salmon and lakers. I have Garmin TR-1 gold auto pilot for the kicker also.
Personally, I wouldn't worry about centering the kicker.
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Old 02-21-2011, 10:44 PM
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Although reverse with a kicker is rarely used. Not having the prop below the deadrise of your boat will result in no reverse at all considering it will be thrusting water at your stern. Have you already purchased the kicker? I have a similiar mount that is mounted where the 25" shaft reaches below the boat and my kicker has power tilt.
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Old 02-22-2011, 03:10 AM
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I went out and measured the boat again and seem to have two options. Keep the fixed bracket and mount it between the trim tab cylinder and the edge of the boat. If I put it way over to one side the anti cavition plate would be even with the bottom of the boat. The other option is the garelick bracket in the center will reach the bottom of the boat perfect. Right now I m leaning towards the adjustable bracket.
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Old 02-22-2011, 12:28 PM
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Baha 272: went through the same issues you're experiencing a several years back with a 23' Imperial. Had a custom made SS bracket made and then took to a marine dealer recommended by boat manufacturer. What a screw up!! They did exactly what you're talking about; mounted this fixed bracket such that anti-cavitation plate was parallel with bottom of hull. Problem was, even though I had a long shaft Yamaha 9.9; it sat so low that wave action frequently submersed the engine! I ended up pulling the bracket, filling holes, and reinstalled. What a pain! I moved it up several inches, and also made sure I could reach over and manually tilt the engine up and down.
As to the exact height, am unsure. Sold this boat several years back, but in terms of trolling, even in rougher stuff; I had no issues. The only issue was that at times, the engine would rev. a little higher if part of the prop popped up to the surface. I also used an "EZ" steer to connect the Yamaha 4 stroke to the I.O.; I'd then retighten the tension screw once motor was in the running position and this system worked well for me.
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Old 02-22-2011, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baha272 View Post
I went out and measured the boat again and seem to have two options. Keep the fixed bracket and mount it between the trim tab cylinder and the edge of the boat. If I put it way over to one side the anti cavition plate would be even with the bottom of the boat. The other option is the garelick bracket in the center will reach the bottom of the boat perfect. Right now I m leaning towards the adjustable bracket.
We might share a common interest and might be able to help each other out, I actually purchased A Garelick 71091 brand new , But after figuring things out to mount my kicker I would have preferred your bracket.
If your interested in a swap we might be able to help each other out, Of course this is if you decide to switch to a adjustable, while I have no experience with kicker brackets the garelick 71091 is pretty dam rugged, Let me know ,Jim
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Old 02-22-2011, 06:27 PM
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Calciumbuf-

I would be interested in doing a swap with the brackets. I am leaving for Mexico tomorrow morning and will not be back until March 5th. Check your private message box.
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Old 02-24-2011, 04:55 PM
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Hey guys,

Discovered this thread while trying to research a solution to a similar problem (though the reverse of the OPs).

I have a Parker 2320 and the Yamaha 250 is mounted on an "offshore bracket" that puts it about 3' behind the stern. It is a narrow bracket with no accommodation for mounting a kicker, so my only options are to (1) bolt a fixed bracket like yours to my transom or (2) use an adjustable mount.

I went for the latter, because I wanted to get the motor up out of the water without having to climb up over the transom and tip-toe out onto the bracket (I have to do that enough now as it is!).

So I purchased one of the the "best" looking brackets that Garelick makes (71044) and measured everything out only to find a couple of problems:

1) I have to mount the bracket inboard of the trim tab to avoid interference (at least thats what my eyeball tells me).

2) Doing so, puts the bracket (and kicker) about mid-way between the port side and the bracket on which the main is mounted

3) This far inboard, at max drop (14-1/2") the cavitation plate will not be in the position recommended by Garelick unless the lower mounting bolts go through the transom BELOW the water line.

4) Also, mounted so far down, I worry that the head unit will get swamped by any larger stern waves that roll in.


So I see my options as either:

a) Find a bracket that has more travel (Garelick doesn't seem to offer one)

b) Figure out a way to mount it farther out to port so that it doesn't interfere with the trim tab

c) Get a ridiculously long shaft motor (like a 30") which I have never heard of anyone having to do with anything other than a sail boat...

or finally...

d) Mount it in a position so that the prop and intake are under the water line but not as far down as Garelick (and engine mfgs) recommend....

I wonder how many out there are running kickers where the prop is *behind* the stern rather than under the stern and I am just over-thinking this whole damned thing.....

BTW, I want the kicker motor for two reasons - first as a "backup" for island trips in case the main craps out on me I can still make way (albeit slowly) while I wait for Vessel Assist and secondly as trolling motor.

Here's the bracket I have:



Here's the stern of the boat:
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Old 02-24-2011, 05:04 PM
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Oh, one other thing...

Why do the bracket manufacturers like Garelick and Panther have DIFFERENT brackets for 2 stroke and 4 stroke engines? It is just the extra weight of the 4 stroke? Other than that, I can't see how it could possibly make a difference...
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Old 02-24-2011, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mighty Sylvan View Post
Although reverse with a kicker is rarely used. Not having the prop below the deadrise of your boat will result in no reverse at all considering it will be thrusting water at your stern. Have you already purchased the kicker? I have a similiar mount that is mounted where the 25" shaft reaches below the boat and my kicker has power tilt.

Beg to differ but reverse is used all the time on my boat and most of the people I fish with.

It is done when backing into a current in order to get a line down to structure on the bottom. It is much easier and better to back into it than try and hold the bow straight against wind and current.

In my experience you do want to get that prop down as far as possible . The boat pitches a lot more on the kicker than it does on the main and the kicker prop is much more likely to come up out of the water if it is mounted too far outboard or if the shaft is too short. The best location seems to be as centered as you can get it and down as far as possible either by using a longer shaft or a mount like you are looking at that can be lowered. If you go with the lower mount you will swamp it.
Also with it mounted outboard it will have a tendency to get in the way when docking as in hit the dock when you turn out and it is easier to get lines fouled in it while trolling.
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Old 03-18-2011, 05:09 PM
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The project is now under way. I ended up returning the orginal fixed bracket and buying the heavy duty adjustable garelick bracket. With the extra long shaft honda and 17.5 inches of travel on the garelick mount I am just able to get the anti-cavition plate even with the bottom of the boat. I used 1" thick starboard cut 10" x 12" for the shims on the bracket.
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