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Old 01-16-2011, 03:35 PM
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Default 1995 Johnson 48 hp

I have a 1995 Johnson 48 hp outboard motor with a manual tilt. After a few months of not using the boat, the motor is now stuck in the down position. I move the lever and it still moves the same amount either way. The hydraulic shock seemed to be getting weaker over the past few years as the motor was getting heavier and heavier on lifting it up. I feel that the shock has finally failed and I am trying to get the motor up to try to replace it. I tried taking the motor angle adjustment pin out to maybe get the motor to swing up, but am not having any luck getting this rod out as well to try to gain access to the underside of the motor. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Old 01-16-2011, 03:56 PM
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Not saying this is your problem, but have you been periodically maintaining the tilt tube (lower front of engine at the steering tube) by pumping marine water-resistant grease ( like Triple Guard) into the zerk fitting (and all others) until new grease just comes out from the seals?
If not you could try that now and try working the engine up & down bit by bit. It might help to heat the tube to possibly loosen solidified old grease then pump in new.
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Old 01-16-2011, 04:14 PM
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I have maintained it pretty well. I had the steering cable replaced a few years back. If were talking about the same thing, my tilt tube is on the rear of the motor that runs along the back of the boat. This appears to be moving, but seems to be getting caught up underneath the motor where I can't access at this point.
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Old 01-16-2011, 05:13 PM
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The tilt tube is at the lower front of the engine and the steering cable runs through it. It has dual purpose, but the Zerk grease fitting toward it's center is for the tilt feature, not steering. The tilt tube is the axis the engine tilts up on, so would not be at the rear. No disrespect intended, but from your response it sounds like this will be a good place to investigate. I'm not familiar with the 48hp but expect it is set up like most every other O/B engine.

If you happen to have an owner's manual I believe it will advise in the Maintenance Schedule to inspect and lube the Tilt Tube every 60 days in FW and every 30 in salt. Also if the tilt lower-limit ("angle-adjustment") pin was removed and greased regularly it would be easy to remove.

And to greatly extend the longevity of your steering cable use, replacing the sealing nut on the port side of the steering tube with a new sealing nut with Zerk fitting like the Davis "Cable Buddy' kit will allow you to lube the engine end of the steering cable regulary instead of having to pull the end of the cabel out of the steering tube to do that . http://www.davisnet.com/marine/produ....asp?grp=m18-1
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Old 01-16-2011, 05:20 PM
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Dont do like I did - mushroomed the bottom rod:





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Old 01-16-2011, 05:49 PM
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The tilt lever can move without actually actuating the release valve. It actually takes a surprising amount of pressure to move that valve and the connection on the cable is plastic. If it breaks the symptoms are what you described. The lever moves but the engine will not tilt. It's tough to see and a pain to get to but I'd check that.
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Old 01-16-2011, 05:54 PM
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TTAXI, I am looking at the manual again and yes it shows maintenance on the "tilt tube, upper tilt cylinder rod" every 60 days for fresh water. The fittings are on the rear of the motor (Just inside the boat) that is accessible and also another set of grease fittings that are under the motor, that I can not get to since the motor is stuck down. I will shoot some grease in the top ones and try my best to access the lower ones, though I don't think I can.

Littletunny, It might be too late. I think I damaged the lower pin trying to take it out. As I am having problems trying to put the nut back one the side that is accessible. So most likely be looking for a replacement of that.
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Old 01-16-2011, 05:58 PM
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Boatdood, I tend to agree with you, because it moves exactly the same amount, about 3 inches when the motor is locked and also when it is unlocked. I can look up the back of the motor from the ground, what exactly should I be looking for, the small cable that moves slightly when I move the lever or something else?
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Old 01-16-2011, 06:26 PM
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Yep, that little cable, in particular the ends. That's where the plastic connections are and they have a tendency to break on either end. When you say it moves about three inches are you talking about the engine itself, or the tilt lever? Either way I'd check the cable ends before I got too involved with the more complicated, and expensive stuff. Considering the age of that tilt assist mechanism it's bound to start acting up soon if that's not it now. The valve had a tendency to build up corrosion and get stiff now and then which added to the plastic ends breaking. It was a pressurized cylinder and the pressure would leak off now and then. And then there's always the corrosion possibility at the pivot points on both the engine tilt tube and the ends of the tilt assist.
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Old 01-16-2011, 06:43 PM
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Boatdood, yeh the motor moves about 3" up only then stops. I will take a look at the cables tomorrow when I have some sunlight. I will update with what I find if anything with the little space I have to work with.
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Old 01-16-2011, 07:26 PM
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Does that engine have any sort of anti-kickup lock on it? If so, could the shift lever be in reverse and this is keeping it from tilting up? I've never owned one, but I'm just thinking to myself here......
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Old 01-16-2011, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by horsepen View Post
Does that engine have any sort of anti-kickup lock on it? If so, could the shift lever be in reverse and this is keeping it from tilting up? I've never owned one, but I'm just thinking to myself here......
No, I don't think it has that.
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Old 01-16-2011, 08:10 PM
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Would this parts diagram & list possibly help?
http://www.crowleymarine.com/johnson...arts/50062.cfm Note that it zoomable with the + control under the big pic.
That looks to be for an "electric" tilt with hydraulic ram but #33 looks like the part Boatdood was having trouble removing. That pin would be common with the manual tilt at the top of the manual 'shock absorber" too, I'd think.
#33 : http://www.crowleymarine.com/parts/14603.cfm
* I don't have anything to do with Crowley , it was just what was available searching for the diagram.

Looks like it normally has a clip # 18 to secure it at one end and would normally be removed when tilted with a drift hit toward the other side.
B-dood: Perhaps Kroil or PB Blaster solvent , heat , CRC Freeze-Off & lots of impacts applied to both ends while a hard steel rod through the clip hole (if one?) tries with leverage to turn it to break loose from the corrosion? Ok you probably did all that.

bake426- Is the boat out of the water to not only get a really good look at that whole rear mechanism but also allow you to get behind the motor and lift on the lower leg for much greater leverage if a tilt locking bar isn't still locked?

If you can ever get access to it , is there possibly a pressure relief screw for the manual lift shock absorber cylinder? (very long shot)
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Old 01-16-2011, 09:44 PM
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You appear to have OMC's fantastic "Touch Trim" system. If it's stuck in the down position, you are screew'd!! You'll have to remove the engine from the transom to access the inards. OMC had a seven page service bulletin on specifics to repairing/replacing the componants of this great system. OMC lost their long held marketshare in Alaskan outboards (literally gave it to Yamaha) with the advent of this....... well, never mind. However, The gas filled cylinder assembly has had many issues as well as the cable, as well as the lever,as well as ........ you can see where this is going. I suggesst you make friends with your local Evinrude and Johnson dealer (Oooppps, I ment Evinrude dealer) and bribe him to give you a copy of the bulletin. I think BRP is going to discontinue building the cylindeer soon so plan on the cable going NLA soon also! Good luck!
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Old 01-21-2011, 10:54 AM
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Update.....Sorry I have been working. Thanks for all the replies. I damaged the "Angle adjusting rod" that adjusts the tilt of the motor trying to get it out to access under the motor. It was mushroomed and I couldn't get the nut back on the one side. SO I continued knocking it out, which did give access to the motor being able to go up. This is where I am. It appears that I need an entire hydraulic assembly that will allow the motor to go up and down. Any ideas where I might find one for cheaper than $500 that I have seen so far. Or maybe it is the locking lever that allows the boat motor to go up and down. As King P.V. says as old at it is it probably needs to be replaced, even if it is not broken.
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Old 01-21-2011, 06:23 PM
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Default Johnson 48 HP

I have the same motor except an evinrude. My hydraulic trim died last Spring and I went through the exact same process. Took me a long while to figure out the solution was to take the angle bolt out to allow access to the cylinder. In May 2010 I contacted dozens of boat motor places (salvage and parts places) throughout the US. I could not locate a single used one that worked, period. I think most were selling new for more than $500.00 to $600.00. It was apparently a very poorly designed system and you and I are fortunate to have them last so long. I think it will take pure luck to stumble across a used one that works, unfortunately.
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Old 01-22-2011, 07:27 AM
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I have the same motor as you and have had the same problem. Last spring a friend found a used cylinder which he replaced for me. I didn't use it much and eventually it stuck down. I was able to move the motor up a few inches so I propped it up with a board to access the cylinder. There is a hose that enters the bottom of the cylinder. I carefully loosened the nut to release the pressure and was able to lift the motor. Problem is it has happened again and have to try again and investigate to see if there is more to it. It is a real pain in the butt operation.
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