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Old 09-09-2010, 03:47 AM
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Default Carolina Skiff and water in the hull

I've got a 2009 16dlx that has only spent a week outside at a dealer but that week it rained and when I went down there was at least a foot of water in the boat. In the meantime because of problems I was having with the engine I put another new fuel injected engine on the boat and it wouldn't plane with the same prop the other engine ran. Was told to put a set of those Smart Tabs (automatic trim tabs) on it and then it would plane good. Well yesterday I drilled the tab holes and you guessed it, struck WATER, lots of water, no wonder the boat was struggling. If and when I get it all drained out I went and got some brass drain plugs to install on both sides. the one thing I need a straight answer on is the stringer system under the floor designed so the water will eventually drain to the back of the boat? dealer told me when I bought the boat water couldn't get between the decks because of foam, well it's there! Now what to do and correct it? Any idea's?
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Old 09-09-2010, 04:21 AM
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I had a 1765 semi vee.

The stringer system?

Gosh-- seems as if I remember that the skiff did not have a stringer (lengthwise) system like a conventional boat. Try to describe what I mean. They said they had crosswise braces in the floor every maybe 6" or 8" with foam filling between.

But it is not say like a two piece boat where a deck cap is glued/bonded to the hull. The decking is fabricated into the hull. Then all your casting decks/fixtures are bolted on to the rolled edge gunnel. Shucks when I bought mine, they didn't even have a wiring chase in the hull, everything had to be laid on the deck.

If you have water in the hull and it is still cross braced as mine was, good luck getting the water out.

I did have occassion to call the factory in Waycross Ga. They answered questions and were helpfull.
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Old 09-09-2010, 04:24 AM
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does the DLX have a flat bottom, or V bottom?

If it's flat, I got bad news for ya. If its a V bottom, you are pretty ok. Don't really wanna go through everyghing here, but checkout this thread for more info:

http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/sh...ght-integtrity

This is specifically about the J series, but all flat-bottom hulls are basically the same in hull/rib design.
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Old 09-09-2010, 04:27 AM
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You have a 1 year old boat with engine problems and water intrusion... Unless you have done somthing to void a warranty, I'd be doing some butt chewing.
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Old 09-09-2010, 04:30 AM
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I am the owner of a 2009 Carolina Skiff DLV and my opinion is - THE HULL DESIGN SUCKS. Water WILL penetrate into the sub-floor area between the dividers/baffles that hold up the floor and WILL saturate the closed cell foam which CS says will not happen. I have seen, first hand, what the foam looks like after the floor is cut away. CS will tell you that it is your fault for not sealing screws that penetrate the deck and will refuse to help. But, they don't design any drains into the hull to allow the water to be evacuated. I contacted CS this summer about draining water and their recommendations for installing hull drains. Their answer? If you do it you will VOID YOUR WARRANTY!?! WTF, OVER.

CS should be installing a drain that runs the full length of the boat so the water settles to the bottom of each cavity and has a way to get to the rear. Instead, they half-a$$ seal these compartments which allows the water to fill up each area before over flowing into the next. A few people over at CarolinaSkiffOwner <dot> <com> have installed drains. The drains will get some of the water out but not much. Once your foam is saturated, it is done.

The CS boats are throw away, disposable, boats.
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Old 09-09-2010, 04:51 AM
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My original 19 foot flat bottom got heavier as it aged. Everywhere you penetrate the floor water will get in. Seat screws, t-top screws, etc. I installed a seat base in the bow area and sure enough it was wet foam under the floor. Side to side stringers prevent the drain to the rear.
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Old 09-09-2010, 08:07 PM
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So if we are all experiencing this problem with water intrusion why don't we get together and let carolina skiff correct it's problem?
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Old 09-09-2010, 10:51 PM
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on the twin vees that got water in them. They would notch teeth into a long length of electrical conduit or rebarb and use them as a very long bits to drill tunnels. Run the home made bit into the drain plug holes you make and send that bit as far up as it will go into the length of the hull makeing a nice foam canal inside the hull to drain the water from every inch of the hull. Prolly the best and only way.

If it were me and I planned on keeping the boat I would most liky have a real drill bit welded to a rod no shorter than the entire hull and make sure those channels went right to the bow.
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Old 09-10-2010, 04:36 AM
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that is along the lines I have been thinking to, got to open up a path to drain the water.
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Old 09-10-2010, 05:03 AM
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well that sucks dike water- i have been lusting after a carolina skiff-- now gota start looking again--
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Old 09-10-2010, 05:12 AM
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My 19 foot model 1960 had foam across the beam then a solid fiberglass "stringer/rib" then foam etc. The drilling method would have to go through a lot of heavy fiberglass as well as foam. I would also worry about the drill coming out the bottom making things a little worse. I assumed, as the ribs were about 6 inches apart and laminated to the floor only certain foam compartments were waterlogged. I can see where it would add a lot of weight though. On the up side, I sold mine after 15 years of reliable service for more than I paid for it. She outlasted 2 motors and was going strong on her third one.
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Old 09-10-2010, 05:32 AM
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OK guys, so here's the bottom line with Carolina Skiffs. I have a J16, and I basically "stopped" using the boat because of the water intrusion. I had a 25 hp motor on a J16, with a bench seat(no storage) the small center console, and the short front deck. I could not get up on plane with me and a 6 gallon gas tank, and I gave up on it. When I first bought the boat(boat was 8 yrs old when I bought it) I could get up on plane, with 9 gallons of gas, a group 24 battery, myself, fishing gear, bait/cooler, off only a 9.9 hp motor. That much change in weight(absorbed water) and I couldn't get on plane with a 25. It sat and sat a while. This spring I ripped the deck off the boat, the entire length. I ripped out all the foam in the larger compartments(the last 6-10 compartments in the bow are only like 1" wide). I weighed all the wet foam. I calculated how much the foam should weigh with NO water, based on it's "density" rating. 2# /cu.ft. What I got was that just water absorbed in the foam was roughly 300lbs of water in the foam. I think it was actually 318, but close enough. You get the point.

Carolina skiff stands by the fact that they believe that the foam is not able to absorb water. They do admit that there may be a thin "film" of water between the fiberglass and foam, but the foam will not soak up water. Obviously all lies. They just don't want to believe it is possible.

As to my final conclusion about carolina skiff. If you are looking at a flats type boat, the hull itself is very cheap. You buy the hull, get all your "accessories" like console, bench seat(s), front deck, back deck. All wiring is done on top of the hull. IF your skiff gets filled with water, you "donate" the boat, or sell for very cheap, keep the trailer, and all "accessories" and get a new hull. Just as a reference, you can get a J16 hull for about $800. Granted, Carolina skiff could PROBABLY fix this issue with slightly thicker fiberglass on the hull and deck, or drains and such, but would you then pay the extra $1000 for the hull? My expectation is that any "fix" will make the boat so much more expensive, they will not make the market impact they do right now. Just my thought.
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Old 03-04-2011, 09:56 AM
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Fortunately, your boat is still under warranty. Unfortunately, when you installed those tabs (if you have), or anything else for that matter not installed by the factory, by drilling a hole in the hull, you could have compromised your warranty. Water in hull never dries out and water soaked foam is heavy. We hope that you did not install any equipment and your boat had not been in the water if you did. Regardless, the burden of proof regarding the ingress of the water, will probably lie with you on whether or not the installation (see alteration or modification clause in the boat warranty) of aftermarket equipment contributed to the damage. These warranties are drafted to protect the manufacturer from acts which occurred after the boat left the factory, to include dealers, and also to protect the boat owner from himself, seldom read by anyone until a problem develops.
2010 Carolina Skiff

Last edited by Following C; 03-04-2011 at 11:05 AM.
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Old 03-07-2011, 01:50 PM
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I recently purchased in 09 2600 offshore series Sea Chaser (made by Carolina Skiff) is there anything I should be aware/concerned with/ or keep an eye on? I bought the boat based on some high reccomendations but any extra knowledge is greatly appreciated.
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Old 03-07-2011, 03:39 PM
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I don't believe that the Sea Chaser models use the same foam, or chamber systems of the smaller carolina skiffs.

If you have any doubts, or real concerns, you can go over to "carolina skiff owners" website, and check out the sea chaser forum.
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Old 03-07-2011, 04:22 PM
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I bought a 24' CS kit boat from a dealer. When I installed the console and leaning post I fabbed "islands" for both. What we did is laminated two 1/2" pieces of marine plywood together and glassed to the floor; 1 in shape of the outline of the console and 4 a bit bigger than each pad on the leaning post. We then gelcoated the boat to blend in the fab work and screwed the console and leaning post into the islands (no holes in the deck). Islands are a terrific tool for CS's and for anything else you dont want to screw a hole in. We also used a piece of 3/4" for all transducers and dive platforms
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Old 03-07-2011, 05:13 PM
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No bilge, no garboard drain...and like Mike the Pro-Line guy here will tell you, closed-cell foam only absorbs 2% water...all of which is bullshit.

Carolina skiffs (and Boston Whalers, and Pro-Lines) can gain hundreds of pounds of added weight from water absorption/intrusion into the supposedly "closed" cells of the foam. With no engineered way for water to escape, you are left with a hull that won't even plane with recommended horsepower.

In theory, closed-cell modern foams don't absorb more than 2% water, but, in practice, they absorb way more...possibly due to incorrect mixing of foam components, maybe due to lies from the foam vendors...who knows? But, it's a continuing fact of boating life.
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Old 03-07-2011, 05:20 PM
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Hey Karl, just because the Pro-line thread got shut down doesn't mean you have to carry the name-calling right into this thread, with a minescule connection like wet foam. Please keep it out.

Yes westco, this is REALLY what needs to be done to any and every piece of equipment attacked to the deck of any carolinaskiff. It's just a REAL shame that they won't own up to their faults, and tell people what needs to be done. With the introduction, and increasing popularity of online forums, the problems associated with carolina skiffs will grow in their wide-spread notice. I don't want to see them go down, they make a GREAT budget boat, for what it is. If they just took 5 more minutes explaining that this MUST be done to all prospective owners, and put it in their pamphlets, this would ALL go away.
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