The Hull Truth - Boating and Fishing Forum

Go Back   The Hull Truth - Boating and Fishing Forum > BOATING FORUMS > The Boating Forum
Search

Notices

Random Quote: Keep her rigged and ready ! ! !
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-01-2010, 12:41 PM
  #1    
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 15
Default CEL on Evinrude Ficht triggered by bad fuel?

I searched the forum for info. pertaining to this and found one post concerning a Ficht motor and possible fuel contamination, but I'd appreciate some opinions on my particular situation.

After splashing for the season and 20-30 mins. of idling and slow speed cruising, my 2000 Evinrude 200hp tripped a CEL and went into "limp home" mode. Restarting the motor caused the CEL to go out, but then re-tripped 1-2 mins. later.

Suspecting water in fuel, I changed two filters; one between tank and motor, one on the motor itself. Managed 15-20 mins. idling before CEL tripped again. Boat was winterized with a full tank of fuel from a gas station (i.e. not @ the dock) last Fall, although it was 60-90 days before I added the Stabil. I siphoned 1 liter of fuel from the fuel line squeeze bulb and let it sit. 1/2 hr. later it looked like very light iced tea and there was clearly 2-3 tablespoons of water on the bottom.

Next, I put the fuel line from the motor into a 5 gal. can of fresh gas and a new filter on the motor. The motor ran fine at idle and low speed for 20 mins., but about 30 secs. after I powered up @ 2500-3000 rpms, the CEL tripped.

I know I NEED TO PULL THE CODE, and I am having the fuel filtered/recirc'd to clean it, but based on my "test" with new fuel, there must be something else going on here. Are there any obvious culprits I should be targeting? Any suggestions would be very appreciated!

Charles
Archhibb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2010, 02:56 PM
  #2    
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,667
Default

A water in the fuel code does not put the motor is SLOW or "limp home mode", only more urgent problems do that.

Check the hoses that cool the EMM, blow (not compressed air) through both hoses and inspect the nipples and internal tube for blockage or restrictions. Over voltage in the system can also do the same thing.
__________________
----------------

*... personally possessing more tools than talent !
__________________________________________________ _
seahorse is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Old 07-01-2010, 03:24 PM
  #3    
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 15
Default

Thanks for the input Seahorse. Cooling does not appear to be an issue since the water stream is very strong and there is a 'HOT' idiot light for temperature. Voltage however could certainly be an issue since one of my two batteries tested low prior to reinstallation for the season. I'll replace it and remove that element from the equation. Again, thanks for the help!
Archhibb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2010, 04:59 PM
  #4    
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Lynnwood Wa.
Posts: 1,704
Default

What he is saying is to check the hoses that cool the EMM,(computer), which have no effect on how well the engine pees or your overheat alarm. If those are blocked or restricted the EMM will overheat and do all sorts of weird things.
prober is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2010, 06:08 PM
  #5    
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,667
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Archhibb View Post
Thanks for the input Seahorse. Cooling does not appear to be an issue since the water stream is very strong and there is a 'HOT' idiot light for temperature.

As was mentioned in the previous post, the engine computer has a water fed cooling tube through it and it also cools the hot fuel in the vapor separator. A plugged or restricted EMM cooling hose will overheat the EMM (engine computer) internally and trigger a CHECK ENGINE light, a 10 second alarm horn, and the motor will slow to about 2500 rpm on your motor.

Of course there are a number of malfunctions that will give the same symptoms. That is why you need the services of a factory trained professional.
__________________
----------------

*... personally possessing more tools than talent !
__________________________________________________ _
seahorse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2010, 06:31 PM
  #6    
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: CT
Posts: 3,429
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by seahorse View Post
As was mentioned in the previous post, the engine computer has a water fed cooling tube through it and it also cools the hot fuel in the vapor separator. A plugged or restricted EMM cooling hose will overheat the EMM (engine computer) internally and trigger a CHECK ENGINE light, a 10 second alarm horn, and the motor will slow to about 2500 rpm on your motor.

Of course there are a number of malfunctions that will give the same symptoms. That is why you need the services of a factory trained professional.
What Seahorse said. Pull the hose off the top of the EMM and try to blow air through it with your mouth. If its not plugged, you should be able to blow air into it with a little bit of resistance. You may also hear a gurgling noise when doing that. If you can't blow air into it, the EMM water cooling circuit is clogged causing the EMM to get hot because little or no water is flowing through the EMM to cool it. When it gets hot, the motor goes into the limp home mode. Switching the engine off and restarting will reset the EMM and allow full operation until the EMM temp gets over the setpoint and then the limp home mode will be triggered again.

Again, quick, simple check is to try to blow air through the fitting on the top of the EMM.
Whaler27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2010, 03:09 AM
  #7    
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 1,018
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Whaler27 View Post
What Seahorse said. Pull the hose off the top of the EMM and try to blow air through it with your mouth. If its not plugged, you should be able to blow air into it with a little bit of resistance. You may also hear a gurgling noise when doing that. If you can't blow air into it, the EMM water cooling circuit is clogged causing the EMM to get hot because little or no water is flowing through the EMM to cool it. When it gets hot, the motor goes into the limp home mode. Switching the engine off and restarting will reset the EMM and allow full operation until the EMM temp gets over the setpoint and then the limp home mode will be triggered again.

Again, quick, simple check is to try to blow air through the fitting on the top of the EMM.

Last 2 times my alarms went off on one of the motors this was the culprit. $75 later for them to unclog and send me on my way. Both time they think I just sucked something up while loading or off loading the boat. My bet is that it is either clogged or the voltage issue.
rcoleman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2010, 05:50 AM
  #8    
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,667
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Whaler27 View Post
What Seahorse said. Pull the hose off the top of the EMM and try to blow air through it with your mouth. If its not plugged, you should be able to blow air into it with a little bit of resistance. You may also hear a gurgling noise when doing that.

... blow (not compressed air) through both hoses and inspect the nipples and the [EMM] internal tube for blockage or restrictions.

By blowing through both hoses you check the water inlet plumbing and the water outflow plumbing.
__________________
----------------

*... personally possessing more tools than talent !
__________________________________________________ _
seahorse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2010, 08:09 AM
  #9    
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 15
Default

If I understand you correctly, the raw water cooling has more than one loop around the engine to cool multiple components, so a strong outflow is not necessarily indicative of proper EMM cooling. Gotcha. I will pull the cooling hoses this weekend and check for blockage.

From a cold start, engine will run approx. 15 mins. before triggering the CEL and becoming restricted to 1000 rpms. Once triggered, restart clears CEL, but it retriggers in approx. 1 min. That seems to support your idea that it's temperature-related.

Thanks for all the great advice so far!
Archhibb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2010, 08:46 AM
  #10    
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 1,018
Default

To make sure- the lines you are pulling are black rubber hose about 1/4" on the back/top of the motor that run into then back out of the computer.

If you need a pic I can take one, just shoot me a PM
rcoleman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2010, 08:57 AM
  #11    
Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 88
Default

If it is a cooling issue with the emm it is most likely after the emm. Follow the line to the vapor canister. I had the same issue with my Ficht 200. There was debris blocking water flow into the canister causing back pressure effectively stopping flow thorugh the emm. You will probably have to remove the port side lower cowling, you will neeed tie wraps to reattach the cooling lines.
Chesisle1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2010, 07:05 PM
  #12    
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: CT
Posts: 3,429
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chesisle1 View Post
If it is a cooling issue with the emm it is most likely after the emm. Follow the line to the vapor canister. I had the same issue with my Ficht 200. There was debris blocking water flow into the canister causing back pressure effectively stopping flow thorugh the emm. You will probably have to remove the port side lower cowling, you will neeed tie wraps to reattach the cooling lines.
The clog is usually in the vapor can but the last time I had it happen I had a clog in both the EMM and the can on one of my motors.

If the circuit is clogged and its in the cannister, as mentioned above you'll need to remove the port side lower pan to get better access. I typically pull the hose off that connects the leg fitting to the lower fitting on the canister and pull the hose off the top of the cannister. Then use a nylon zip tie and poke around in both fittings of the cannister to see if you can loosen up whatever is in there. Then reconnect the hose to the bottom of the cannister and try squirting some water (low pressure) into the cannister to back flush it. That's always worked for me.

A strong pee stream doesn't tell you anything about the flow through the EMM cooling circuit.
Whaler27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2010, 05:26 AM
  #13    
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 15
Default

Went to check things out yesterday and you guys nailed it. Clogged completely at the outlet from the canister for the hose that runs up to the top of the EMM. Is the canister the vapor separator? (still waiting to receive my manual...) Blowing air did not clear the system although I did not try squirting water into it. If that doesn't work, can the canister be removed & disassembled for cleaning or should it be replaced entirely?
Archhibb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2010, 05:42 AM
  #14    
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: CT
Posts: 3,429
Default

Remove the port side lower pan (4 bolts -- 2 inside at the front and back levers, two outside).

Pull the LOWER hose running between the lower fitting on the vapor separator and the motor leg and also pull the hose off of the upper fitting on the vapor separator.

Take a nylon zip tie and poke the pointed end around into both fittings on the vapor separator to see if you can loosen any crud in there.

With the motor tilted up, attach the LOWER hose to the upper vapor separator fitting and squirt some water into the hose and see if anything comes out of the lower fitting. Then attach the LOWER hose to the lower vapor separator fitting and do the same thing. In between that keep poking into the fittings with the nylon zip tie. Repeat as necessary.

Hopefully if the clog isn't too bad the poking and alternate forward and back flushin flushing should clear the clog.
Whaler27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2010, 10:07 AM
  #15    
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 15
Default

I'm back in action! Many many thanks for the advice and technical assistance. You all were a huge help. Happy summer boating!
Attached Images
  
Archhibb is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 



©2009 TheHullTruth.com

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.2.0