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Old 05-24-2010, 03:56 PM   #1
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Default Attaching Starboard to Transom for Mounting Transducers

At the suggestion of several posters on another thread, I am going to attach a peice of starboard to my transom and mount my transducers on it to avoid further holes in the hull.

Several ways of attaching it were suggested, but how about this:


Why not simply attach it using 3M 5200 similar to the way Liquid Nails is used on subfloors, or the adhesive used for tile and marble,etc? As strong as 5200 is supposed to be, I would think it would hold it there indefinitely and thus avoid putting ANY holes in the transom.

Will this work? Anybody tried it?
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Old 05-24-2010, 03:58 PM   #2
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Do a search, you'll find that folks say that 5200 does not stick to starboard... I have found, with the proper prep, it does stick just fine.

An alternative is to use the actual adhesive made for starboard.
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Old 05-24-2010, 04:00 PM   #3
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Lots of post on this - 5200 won't form a good bond to the starboard - not much will. Put a couple of well done holes in the transom for the starboard (but save others later by having it).
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Old 05-24-2010, 04:07 PM   #4
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There is already a product on the market for what you are trying to do. It mounts to the transom with two brackets and then all your transducers and speed and temp whatever else mounts to the bar between the brackets. I personally dont like to reinvent the wheel and as others have said not much sticks to starboard
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Old 05-24-2010, 04:07 PM   #5
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I used a 3/4" piece of Starboard and attached it with screws and 4200.
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Old 05-24-2010, 04:14 PM   #6
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I guess another alternative would be to use wood that has been sealed and/or painted. I don't keep my boat in a slip, although it does sometimes stay in the water for a week or so while I'm on vacation.

At that rate, I think a good peice of kiln-dried hardwood like White Oak might last for years.
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Old 05-24-2010, 04:31 PM   #7
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NO adhesive will bond reliably to Starboard.

One excellent suggestion posted here (not done it) is to take a router with a dovetail bit and run several grooves across the back of the piece- fill them with the 5200 (and a liberal amount on the ****** and then press in place against the transom, temporarily secure with some tape until set (I'd use the fast cure 5200).

The dovetail grooves will create a mechanical bond to the 5200 and secure it in place.

Like I said, I haven't done it, but see no reason why it wouldn't work perfectly for this application. I'm with you- any way to not put screw holes in a wood cored transom is the best way...
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Old 05-24-2010, 06:18 PM   #8
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Starboard is not the only (or best) plastic for use in this application. Noryl will glue very well with 5200. You'll need to drill and tap holes in it for machine screws rather than using self tapping or wood screws.
I've used Noryl for a number of projects on the boat and it seems to hold up well to the weather. To mount a speed and temp sensor to the transom I made two small (approx 1/2") cubes with a hole drilled and tapped in each. The cubes were then glued to the transom with 5200. The sensor fit right over the cubes and is secured with allen cap screws. If two small blocks holds up, I'm sure a larger plate would be bullet proof. Noryl is available from McMaster Carr.
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Old 05-24-2010, 07:24 PM   #9
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mix up some west system epoxy, or any epoxy of your choice. pour it into a wawa coffee cup so its the thickness you want, let it set up , peel away the paper, you have a nice hockey puck of hardened epoxy, 5200 that to the transom and good to go
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Old 05-24-2010, 07:44 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDrew View Post
Starboard is not the only (or best) plastic for use in this application. Noryl will glue very well with 5200. You'll need to drill and tap holes in it for machine screws rather than using self tapping or wood screws.
I've used Noryl for a number of projects on the boat and it seems to hold up well to the weather. To mount a speed and temp sensor to the transom I made two small (approx 1/2") cubes with a hole drilled and tapped in each. The cubes were then glued to the transom with 5200. The sensor fit right over the cubes and is secured with allen cap screws. If two small blocks holds up, I'm sure a larger plate would be bullet proof. Noryl is available from McMaster Carr.
Hey, thanks for a great suggestion.

Can't seem to find it on McMaster's website. Is there another name for it? I'm looking under "plastics".
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Old 05-24-2010, 07:53 PM   #11
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Found it. Is it easy to cut or shape with regular tools?
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Old 05-24-2010, 07:58 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by take one View Post
mix up some west system epoxy, or any epoxy of your choice. pour it into a wawa coffee cup so its the thickness you want, let it set up , peel away the paper, you have a nice hockey puck of hardened epoxy, 5200 that to the transom and good to go

Best suggestion yet
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Old 05-24-2010, 09:00 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by take one View Post
mix up some west system epoxy, or any epoxy of your choice. pour it into a wawa coffee cup so its the thickness you want, let it set up , peel away the paper, you have a nice hockey puck of hardened epoxy, 5200 that to the transom and good to go
Very clever
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Old 05-24-2010, 11:32 PM   #14
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Instead of Starboard , I used PVC house trimboard screwed in and screw holes and back of PVC sealed well with 4200 . Made the PVC mount large enough to accommodate possibly larger replacement T/D's in the future and sides and top edges were nicely beveled and eased. .
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Old 05-25-2010, 03:41 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by take one View Post
mix up some west system epoxy, or any epoxy of your choice. pour it into a wawa coffee cup so its the thickness you want, let it set up , peel away the paper, you have a nice hockey puck of hardened epoxy, 5200 that to the transom and good to go
Yes, that is a good one!
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Old 05-25-2010, 04:14 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cat-a-holic View Post
Found it. Is it easy to cut or shape with regular tools?
Yes, easy to work with normal wood working tools. It is harder than starboard and will sand and polish to a nice shine.
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Old 05-25-2010, 04:20 AM   #17
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I've seen this used on a few boat. But at $119.00 its pretty expensive.

http://www.sternmate.com/
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Old 05-25-2010, 05:39 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FASTFJR View Post
I've seen this used on a few boat. But at $119.00 its pretty expensive.

http://www.sternmate.com/
Just installed the Sternmate on my kids Whaler last night. Follow the directions very closely and take your time and you end up with a very professional looking job. Allows for adjustment of the transducer after installation, and best of all no holes in the transom Well worth the $119 in my opinion.
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Old 05-25-2010, 06:04 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobraarvey View Post
Just installed the Sternmate on my kids Whaler last night. Follow the directions very closely and take your time and you end up with a very professional looking job. Allows for adjustment of the transducer after installation, and best of all no holes in the transom Well worth the $119 in my opinion.
I guess if it works well and you don't have any holes its worth it.
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Old 05-25-2010, 06:12 AM   #20
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Sternmate still uses four holes drilled. So much cheaper to use a cheap cut-off piece of starboard, rough it, goop it with the (doesn't stick) 5200 and drill four holes to hold it on with good, countersunk, stainless screws.

Been doing that for years on lots of boats. WORKS.
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