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Random Quote: Give a man a fish and he will have a meal, teach a man to fish and he'll sit in the boat and drink beer all day.
Well, I bought it! Love it and I'm very excited but has some cosmetic rusting that I'd like to address, FL boat but will be moving it to Fresh Water.
How and what products should I use to remove the following rust/corrosion?
1. For anchor/stainless parts
2. Engine room/mounting bolts (suppose I need to brush off the rust and paint?)
3. Brass thru hull and other fittings that turned green.
Well, I bought it! Love it and I'm very excited but has some cosmetic rusting that I'd like to address, FL boat but will be moving it to Fresh Water.
How and what products should I use to remove the following rust/corrosion?
1. For anchor/stainless parts
2. Engine room/mounting bolts (suppose I need to brush off the rust and paint?)
3. Brass thru hull and other fittings that turned green.
Advise appreciated!
For the stainless parts use a scotch brite pad. Any auto paint store will have them.
Motor mounts need to be wire brushed and repainted.
Same as above for your brass/bronze water intake minus the paint.
Oh and what happened to the starboard side of your anchor?
Last edited by BOLO899; 03-27-2010 at 11:20 PM.
Reason: added question
Some of the items in the pictures are steel and are going to require sanding, metal prep, priming and re-painting. You'll find those with a magnet.
I feel differently about cleaning the stainless. Stainless steel is stainless because it is capable of developing chromium oxides on the surface to protect it. If the protective oxide layer is damaged or removed, the iron molecules in the stainless can become exposed and rust will occur. Likewise, stainless parts that have been in contact with steel during machining or forming will rust where steel molecules have adhered to the stainless. There is a process called passivation which restores the protective layer by cleaning the surface and restoring the oxide layer.
Passivating is commonly done by plating shops where they dip the parts in strong nitric acid. The acid dissolves any iron on the surface and re-oxidizes the chromium. Any parts that you can remove and have passivated will give you a much better result. If you have things that are not removable, can be cleaned well with a kitchen cleaner that contains oxalic acid and a green scrubbing pad. Don't use any metal pads to clean it or you may promote more rust. If you get it very clean and wipe it down with alcohol, it will usually begin to re-form the desired chromium oxide surface.
I am brave enough to use nitric acid diluted to 25 percent, which works faster and involves less scrubbing, but requires good protective gear, including a face shield. It is not a process for the timid.
Some of the items in the pictures are steel and are going to require sanding, metal prep, priming and re-painting. You'll find those with a magnet.
I am brave enough to use nitric acid diluted to 25 percent, which works faster and involves less scrubbing, but requires good protective gear, including a face shield. It is not a process for the timid.
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Hmmmmm, I've found some stainless to be magnetic. Yep I'll agree caustic acids will do a good job of cleaning but keeping it simple with some elbow grease is far better then dealing with a caustic acid solution that requires PPE not to mention disposal of the cleaning agent.
Nothing in his pictures is severe enough to break out corrosive agents.
Both good info here, but I would start even more basic.
1. For the anchor and stainless - I would flitz it and evaluate the results. It may take more than one go around; some bikers I know say the third go around is the charm to give a mirror finish. "Flitzing" may not make it perfect, but may get you to the point that it passes the 3 foot test.
2. As stated, don't think you'll avoid some sanding/wire wheel and paint.
3. the green on bronze - the scotchbrite pads work well. I've had success with on/off as well, but like said, precautions needs to be taken for using acids. I wouldn't hesitate to hit the outside green thru-hull with it.
The rust on the fg below the thru-hole looks like it is going to cause you some grief. I've recently had the best success in removing rust stains from the fg by using on/off. (tried a few of the other rust removers, but on/off worked the best). First wipe the rust area with acetone to make sure there is no wax on top of the rust area. Then tape a white paper towel (no printed ones) folded 2 or 3 times over the rust stain. Saturate it with on/off and let it sit over-night. If really stubborn, you may need to do this 2x's. That should lift it out. If the paper towel dries out overnight, you may need to cover it with saran wrap.
POR 15 on the motor mounts will stop the corrosion, I used it on the swivel brackets on my boat that was run in saltwater for years. The paint has not bled through in almost two years.
Well, I bought it! Love it and I'm very excited but has some cosmetic rusting that I'd like to address, FL boat but will be moving it to Fresh Water.
How and what products should I use to remove the following rust/corrosion?
1. For anchor/stainless parts
2. Engine room/mounting bolts (suppose I need to brush off the rust and paint?)
3. Brass thru hull and other fittings that turned green.
Advise appreciated!
All the SS use woody wax with scotch guard pad once you have these parts shining all you need to do is maintenance once every 3 months, this product displaces water and humidity also works great on electrical connections
all other steel parts removed rust and paint then apply LSP3 all over
Good luck
0000 Fine Steel Wool, and some CLR (calcium lime rust) remover. My brother was working his ass off using Flitz on SS today and the Steel Wool/CLR did a better job and faster.
I would not use steel wool on any stainless steel. Muratic acid on a rag will get rid of the rust in seconds, (hold your breath while doing it and dont get it on any other metal that is not stainless) It will also remove rust from plastics, gel coat, starboard....... Rinse with lots of water.
Best to wax anything that the acid is used on after rinsing. Anything painted needs to be sanded and then cleaned with phosphoric rust cleaner (Home Depo)
Simple Green de greaser works great for black stains and grease.
Most other things bleach will take care of.
Anyone want to explain to me why steel wool, that works in seconds and doesn't scratch, is bad for marine use....but I should use acid and hold my breath as an alternative? I've used the Super Fine Steel Wool + Cleaner and/or Polish for years on cars, boats, outdoor furniture, etc....always with superb results.
Anyone want to explain to me why steel wool, that works in seconds and doesn't scratch, is bad for marine use.
As you rub the steel wool on the stainless, molecules of the steel get rubbed into the surface of the stainless. Those molecules can begin to rust very quickly.
Secondly, as you use the steel wool, it drops tiny pieces of the steel. Any of those that land on the boat and don't get cleaned up quickly will leave a rust stain.
I follow up the steel wool by wiping with a clean microfiber towel. I might hit the SS with some sort of sealer and buff that off after. Yes steel wool leaves some hairs....but if you only get that far with it you're doing a half assed job anyways
Bronze wool with the cleaners mentioned earlier works well and will not have the side effects that steel wool has.
Woody Wax and bronze wool can work wonders.
Doug
Quote:
Originally Posted by kerno
As you rub the steel wool on the stainless, molecules of the steel get rubbed into the surface of the stainless. Those molecules can begin to rust very quickly.
Secondly, as you use the steel wool, it drops tiny pieces of the steel. Any of those that land on the boat and don't get cleaned up quickly will leave a rust stain.
How do I get this Rust off? 
