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Old 03-26-2010, 03:20 PM
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Default T-Top - Clean or restore pitted aluminum

I didn't do it -but the boat I bought was left in the salt spray and it now has pits on the port side of the T-top (Birdsall or Bluewater) .

They are not noticeable by touch. It all feels smooth. But they look like stains all over.

I have tried Woody Wax which got half of it. Anything else to try?



BTW -Thanks to HullTruth I have fixed / added / understood:

My new Radar and mounting it on my top
My Baitwell and plumbiing
Organizing my cockpit
Trailers
My bildge piping
Mounting new electronics
Understanding my motors
Understanding my motors are not working right
Fixing my motors + Fixing my motors + fixing my motors

AWESOME site guys. Thanks so much.

Tommy
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Old 03-26-2010, 03:47 PM
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Mothers
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Old 03-26-2010, 03:49 PM
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Try flitz
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Old 03-26-2010, 03:50 PM
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Try flitz + bronz wool
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Old 03-26-2010, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
BTW -Thanks to HullTruth I have fixed / added / understood:

My new Radar and mounting it on my top
My Baitwell and plumbiing
Organizing my cockpit
Trailers
My bildge piping
Mounting new electronics
Understanding my motors
Understanding my motors are not working right
Fixing my motors + Fixing my motors + fixing my motors

AWESOME site guys. Thanks so much.
My sentiments exactly! and I'm subscribed to this thread as well.
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Old 03-26-2010, 04:48 PM
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I use speedy on my trucks and boats aluminum, i have yet to see anything that lasts as long and penetrates and removes the oxidation like it, plus the carnuba wax helps with the longevity, as someone else said, to remove that pitting, you will also need wool, or a quick wash with daluted alumabrite, then a few coats of speedy.
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Old 03-26-2010, 06:25 PM
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There is nothing you can do at this point. The corrosion has eaten it's way under the thin clear coat and pitted away the aluminum. Matter of fact it's dam near impossible to get the corrosion out the pits to completely stop it, but there is a way.

I redid my hydrasport bolster seat which has allot of aluminum tubing just like your t-top by sand blasting with a simple sand blasting gun in the back yard. I used a medium grit glass bead (which is standard and comes in a 50lb bag from a abrasive store) and went fast so I would not go to deep with the blasting. I slowed down on the areas that were most eaten away from the salt spray, and the other area's I went light, just enough so paint would bond to the aluminum.

After 2 hours of blasting was done, I took a hour with a scoring pad to lightly scuff all area's even and ultra smooth. I repainted with automotive paint because it will never look shiny and new again. I use automotive white base coat and then a clear coat. Looks stunning.

After this season I will do my entire t-top also.

Tools needed: 50lb bag of sand blasting sand (med grit glass bead). $8.00 a bag.
Framing gun compressor.
Small sandblast gun.
Safety glasses.
Scotch bright pads from grocery store.
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Old 03-26-2010, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MakoTx View Post
I didn't do it -but the boat I bought was left in the salt spray and it now has pits on the port side of the T-top (Birdsall or Bluewater) .

They are not noticeable by touch. It all feels smooth. But they look like stains all over.

I have tried Woody Wax which got half of it. Anything else to try?



BTW -Thanks to HullTruth I have fixed / added / understood:

My new Radar and mounting it on my top
My Baitwell and plumbiing
Organizing my cockpit
Trailers
My bildge piping
Mounting new electronics
Understanding my motors
Understanding my motors are not working right
Fixing my motors + Fixing my motors + fixing my motors

AWESOME site guys. Thanks so much.

Tommy
Forget about it! Go fishing .
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Old 03-26-2010, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by reel pleasure View Post
Forget about it! Go fishing .
Or wait two more years and it will look twice as worse, not to metion it will take the value of your boat down. It's all about how much it means to you & your wallet.
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Old 03-27-2010, 08:54 AM
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Somthing tells me that the potion I need is going to be somthing that needs gloves and a mask. The Flitz and Speedy will get a try.

Has anyone pulled a T-top and had it eched and painted. Man - pulling that tops seems like a major ordeal!

I have had a lot of people tell me that nothing can be done. Sur would like to prove that wrong.

Any other ideas?
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Old 03-27-2010, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MakoTx View Post
Somthing tells me that the potion I need is going to be somthing that needs gloves and a mask. The Flitz and Speedy will get a try.

Has anyone pulled a T-top and had it eched and painted. Man - pulling that tops seems like a major ordeal!

I have had a lot of people tell me that nothing can be done. Sur would like to prove that wrong.

Any other ideas?
If the aluminum isn't coated you might want to try the alumabrite first, its a acid so be careful to dilute it and hose everything down where it will touch, but it works great and cleans the aluminum and preps it while removing dirt and oxidation, i do this process every spring to my lowboy that has a aluminum headache rack, diamond plate fenders, 2 80 gallon fuel tanks and a 60 gallon hyd tank, i usually do a 2 to 3 coat process with speedy and afterwards the aluminum looks like chrome and lasts all year.
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Old 03-27-2010, 12:57 PM
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I 2nd Flitz. Started my T-Top and leaning post and so far so good. I have been using the cream stuff in the bottle, but want to try the paste for the tougher spots.
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Old 03-27-2010, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by MakoTx View Post
Somthing tells me that the potion I need is going to be somthing that needs gloves and a mask. The Flitz and Speedy will get a try.

Has anyone pulled a T-top and had it eched and painted. Man - pulling that tops seems like a major ordeal!

I have had a lot of people tell me that nothing can be done. Sur would like to prove that wrong.

Any other ideas?


Powder coat?
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Old 03-27-2010, 02:34 PM
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How many coats of Woody Wax did you apply? How long did you let it sit? I'm about to try it on my boat, but according to the instructions it says for bad areas you need to let it sit for 24 hours and use some fine bronze wool on it (i guess you could also try medium if it's really bad). Then if it doesn't all come off, add another coat and let it sit for another 24 hours.

Once/if you remove all of the pitting, you could try the Woody Wax Metal Sealant to help protect the aluminum and prevent it from happening again.

Last edited by sfjtm; 03-27-2010 at 03:11 PM.
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Old 03-27-2010, 04:15 PM
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Woody wax is not going to anything that would help that damage. Your best bet for some type of liquid is going to be a acid based material to eat the corision.

Woody wax is only going to help keep it up when it's new, and it's far beyond new.
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Old 03-27-2010, 04:32 PM
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Default Woody

Ezjohn is right about Woody. I tried everything. I let it sit for 24 hours, then several days. I took a high speed Drimel tool with wire brush and even hit the spots with that.

I've buffed it and wire brushed it and it doesn't budge.

I will say that Woody cleaned it up nice and got the shine back for all the areas that didn't have the stains. I almost want to say pits but they are more like stains.

My origional plan when I bought the boat was to ignor it and go fishing. But all my boats have had shinney metal and eventually it started driving me crazy. In person its not as bad as the pictures make it look.

Heres the before and after Woody. Different lighting but the color really looked like that. I went from white chalk to shinny
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Old 03-27-2010, 05:17 PM
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It's just not possible to repair pits. You could try every kind of wool and magic wax crap, but the only thing you can do to make it smooth and shiny again is grind it down and paint it.
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Old 03-27-2010, 05:35 PM
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A small compressor, a cheap sand blaster from auto parts store, and a 8 dollar bag of sand, some glasses because the sand can bounce back at your eyes. This is the only way to make it look new again. The results will impress you, and since I've learned about sand blasting I've used it on many other things. Sand blasting leaves a great finish on stainless steel also, just clear coat when your done.

Sandblasting is the king of reconditioning parts on marine boats.
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Old 03-30-2010, 12:43 PM
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MakoTx, did you give the Flitz a try on the t-top? I'm experiencing the same thing on my t-top!

Jason
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Old 03-30-2010, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
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A small compressor, a cheap sand blaster from auto parts store, and a 8 dollar bag of sand, some glasses because the sand can bounce back at your eyes. This is the only way to make it look new again. The results will impress you, and since I've learned about sand blasting I've used it on many other things. Sand blasting leaves a great finish on stainless steel also, just clear coat when your done.

Sandblasting is the king of reconditioning parts on marine boats.
I agree
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