new e-tec - The Hull Truth

dap533 · 03-08-2010, 08:07 PM

took my 150 e-tec for its first sea trial today and was impressed. I put about 2.5 hours on it at various speeds, however I only got 4600 rpm out of it WO. It is on a 23 ft boat and at 4600 I was doing about 30 knots. Shouldn't I be getting more rpm out of it? I am happy with the performance as is but don't want to keep running it if it should have a different prop/ get more rpm's. I also heard somewhere that after the break in period I may gain a few hundred rpm's?

yz2009 · 03-08-2010, 08:18 PM

I dont know the proper RPM range for an ETEC but that seems low, check your owners manual. Sounds like your over propped. Its propbly not a good idea to run it until your in your correct RPM range

As for the break in you should check your owners manual im sure it says the proper operating rpms and how long to stay at those rpms.

Usually the first 10 hours on a motor are "break in hours" usually 1/4 trottle speeds for first hour, then 2/3 trottle for second hour, then for the next 8 hours operate at all rpms going up to WOT for 5 mins at a time once every hour or so

edit: i just looked on evinrudes site and it looks like the proper wot rpm range is 4850-5850. I wouldnt use it until you are in the proper range. I would go for the upper half of the range so 5400-5800. my guess is your over propped

fishinmaniac · 03-08-2010, 08:27 PM

Looks like you definately need to go down in prop pitch. Not sure the exact WOT rpm you need but I am guessing 5500?

tango tomas · 03-08-2010, 10:06 PM

I believe some of the new engines are software limited for the break-in period. Definitely check the propeller too.

seahorse · 03-08-2010, 10:11 PM

If you read your owners manual, you will see that a break in period is not needed for the motor.

If you could give us the make, model, and year of your boat plus the propsize, we can see if it is "in the ballpark" set-up wise.

A dealer is supposed to check and verify the correct rigging, prop, and rpm and has to submit a form to the factory documenting that.

There is also the possibility that the throttle cable or controls are not adjusted properly and the motor is not getting full throttle.

First thing to do is contact your dealer and explain the problem.

Harvest1121 · 03-08-2010, 10:42 PM

I do not know if this helps but we have etech snowmobiles. They use a lot oil and fuel till about 10 hours. I would think it would be about the same. I do not know much about boats but moving to Naples so I will have to learn quick.

eggsuckindog · 03-09-2010, 01:49 AM

No breakin, although the motor is sending extra oil on its own - you are WAY over proped - you need to go down 4" in pitch, that will give approx 800RPM at WOT, that should help all the way up through cruise speed. 23' boat must be a small motor for only 30kts

Ramdriver · 03-09-2010, 05:07 AM

i have a 2007 etec 150hp on a 20' mako. You def need to see atleast 600 or 700 rpm's more. A min WOT of 5350rpm but I would prefer 5500rpm light boat rpm. I have a Rebel 3 blade stainless wheel which was origanally 15.5 x 17 but I have an inch of pitch knocked out to get the rpm's I wanted.

RUDE Attitude · 03-09-2010, 05:57 AM

Definitely need more RPM, but before swapping props, I'd look at motor mounting height. Make sure the cavitation plate is not below the water line while on plane. Once you get the motor high enough, then start playing with props. Granted, you probably won't get the needed ~800 RPM increase without downsizing in pitch.

c_mccann · 03-09-2010, 08:19 AM

It is 300 rpm per inch of pitch of prop. You need 3-4 inches less pitch on that prop.

plumsal · 03-09-2010, 10:11 AM

As already said, over-proped and maybe engine height not correct.

Optimum RPM range for the 150 is 5500-5600.

Not a break-in issue on the Etec.

Ramdriver · 03-09-2010, 12:04 PM

Evinrude has a borrow a prop program, easy way to get what you need without having to spend money on chances.

davidkuhlmann · 03-09-2010, 12:12 PM

When you ran wide open throttle did you trim up the outboard till the prop started to blow out then back it down till it caught again? If not you were not running it WOT. Trim will allow you to gain several hundred more RPMs. If you did this then yes you are over propped or your outboard is burried to low on the transom

Absolute · 03-09-2010, 03:11 PM

Is this a re-power? If so, are you using the old fuel? Most of my customers discard the old fuel and replace with new/fresh fuel when re-powering.

Absolute,

Suckin Sludge & Havin a Gas

Chiliando · 03-09-2010, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RUDE Attitude

Definitely need more RPM, but before swapping props, I'd look at motor mounting height. Make sure the cavitation plate is not below the water line while on plane. Once you get the motor high enough, then start playing with props. Granted, you probably won't get the needed ~800 RPM increase without downsizing in pitch.

Spot on.

What prop are you currently running?

What RPM's were you getting with the old engine?

dap533 · 03-10-2010, 06:09 PM

This is the first engine I have had on this boat, I bought the bare hull as a project and it didn't have anything on it when I purchased it. The prop I have on now is a 17, and after playing with the trim a little and one less person I managed to get 4800 out of it, but as said that is still substantially under what I should be at. Another question I have totally unrelated, is that when I try to start the engine it does not start the first time I hit the key. It did this when I picked it up from the mechanic and he said that its typical when you are starting after it had been winterized because it has extra oil. It is still doing the same thing now and i have run it several times now. It is hard to explain through typing but I am contacting my mechanic tomorrow, just wondering if anyone knows what I am talking about. Thanks again for all the help guys

Chiliando · 03-10-2010, 06:49 PM

Dap,

17 inch pitch sounds about right. Definely have to check if the engine is not sitting too low in the water while on plane. The cavitation plate should be just at the water surface while on plane. If this is not right, nothing you do will help much.

Can't help with the winterization question as I am in Miami but mine starts on the 1st try every time.

thunnus · 03-10-2010, 07:16 PM

Seahorse's throttle control theory is also a prime candidate for the unacceptably low RPM's you are experiencing. Try this: depress the "clutch" botton at the control binnacle, and then try to throttle up to see if you can get more RPM's without the engine being in gear and the prop not spinning. If so, you know the problem is at the prop. If not, its at the throttle.

David C French · 03-10-2010, 07:55 PM

Have the TACH checked first.