*THE HULL TRUTH is the world's largest FREE network for the discussion of Boating & Fishing. Whether you're researching a new boat, or are a seasoned Captain, you'll find The Hull Truth Boating & Fishing Message Forum contains a wealth of information from Boaters and Sportfishermen around the world.
Welcome to the updated THT!
If you are having trouble signing in, please email feedback@thehulltruth.com with your username and we will help you. We thank you for your patience as we help you access the new site!
Random Quote: My wife would leave me if she knew how much I spend on snap swivels alone!
I have been wondering since I reported the boat I saw under water this past weekend. The thread took an interesting turn... more into where is a boat a lost cause. If a boat sinks, is under water for a period of time or just takes on a lot of water.... when is enough enough? Of course this can vary widely between makes and models. But, if a boat can be made to float again and repowered, which is common, at what point does it go to the big boatyard in the sky? Old hulls never die right?
I really do think it is an individual case by case basis. With cars, normally if damage exceeds more than about 60% of the cars value, its totaled.
Like I said in that thread though--if an open boat like a Dorado (and I mean ANY open boat--not just a Scout-say a Gardy or Mako or Trophy) sat underwater overnight, I don't think enough damage could have been done to total it. There's no carpet--the seats will dry (they get wet anyway), gauges are cheap (if they leaked). Gas tank can be flushed (if it leaked)--and I really think the motor could be saved. The electronics on boat motors are made for some pretty harsh conditions, and are normally water proof.
I would be VERY surprised to see a newer boat like that get totaled.
I agree with Joe some. It depends on the boat and the person. Do you want to just fish and party?
Then your noat a candite for reworking a boat. Then again maybe you have cubic $ to pay someone else to do it for you.
Some conserns to me are being able to get ALL the water out of the hull and not have it sit there and the flotation foam suck it up
after a few years. It will make the boat a pig. Lousy performance and suck the heck out of fuel.
Guages would be a total loss, wiring, controls may work for a while, but will need replacing soon.
Fuel will need to be pumped, if you can get to it. Might have to cut the deck for that. Depends on the boat.
May be able to salavage the motor, but I bet you will have problems with electrical on it in the near future.
Electronic's are a throw away. I don't care if there waterproof or not.
I'd say that if it costs more to restore it than to find one of similar age & condition in turn key shape it is not worth restoring. My flooding from Hurricane Fabian last Sep cost over $60,000 to repair. New boat replacement would be over $150,000. Similar aged boat import duty paid & landed in Bermuda would be over $100,000. After the rebuild I have what is in many ways better than new. Complete re wire job, better than builder. Engine hauled out, cleaned & painted. Hull Awlgripped, better finish than gelcoat. Home made platform, better than production. A number of other upgrades.
Repair or run away? Tough call sometimes. Know what you are getting into first.
Sorry, that's the first thing I thought of when I saw the thread title. It sounded like an abandon ship thread.
To be serious. I believe the answer to your question would also depend on whether the boat is in salt or freshwater.
With fresh-water you can frequently just airblow everything (except the gas tank), flush the fuel and oil systems, replace the batteries and away*you go. That's if the boat hasnt been down long enough for rust to form.
In salt-water it's almost the same thing if you catch it quick. Oxidation will form quickly after you remove*susceptible items from salt-water so you'd want a fresh-water flush immediatly as the salvage occurs. The motor will want to be sprayed with a preserrvative too.
I've gleaned this info from magazine articles not personal experience. I'm sure there's lots more to it.
__________________ I'm not a boat expert, I just read THT!
I remember reading a thread with accompanying photo's quite afew years ago...on a downunder boating board.
Basically it went like this..
When building a major dam in the snowy mountains somewhere over east, the construction crew "lost" a 8 hp Mercury outboard off a construction barge when it wasn't clamped on tightly, and it sank in many many feet of freshwater never to be seen again.
Something like 24 years later during major drought - when the dam was waaaay low level of water - the water folks decided to drain it downand do repairs to a crack in the dam wall....
When they did - the ol Merc OB "became visible in a deep puddle and was "recovered" in pretty much the same condition it went down to all observations.
It was taken into a marine dealer - who flushed the carbs - dried it out etc - and put fresh fuel in it - it started first pull on the original spark plugs and has run like a champ for years afterwards!
Immersion in water (fresh or salt) isn't what kills an OB it's what you do with it AFTER you get it out of the water, that determines whether it will be repairable or not.
Most good marine dealers - when presented with a drowned motor, if they can't getat it staright away when delivered - will "pickle it" - meaning submerge it in water again straight away until they CAN get time to deal with it - it doesn't deteriorate much below water - all the danmage is down when it diores out and isn't treated right straight away.
I've drowned one before to day and had it running the next - it ain't rocket science.
That said - things like stators etc don't usually last long after saltwater immersion.
With rreards to the boat - it depends on the value of the boat and it's age and whats required to bring it back to life.
If it was a high end collectpors item like a early BW or a Bert 31 for example - then the usual rules don't apply, but if it's a no name low value and you value your time in any way - then forget it!
I'd say you total the boat when fixing it cost more than replacing it. If it's covered by insurance it won't be your choice anyway.
For me, I stick with old boats like the topaz or my old 33 Concorde. These boats are so spartan they could go down and be fine except for engines and electronics. Take the topaz, if it were to sink than worst case is that I'd have to repower for around $20k (diesel). There is no way I'd find a newly diesel-powered 24 Topaz for under $25k, hence, I keep it - particularly if I trust the hull!! Electronics depreciate so fast it's not worth considering them in the equation (except maybe a nice radar setup). I suppose if you have one of those fu fu boats with all that foam and upholstry it would be a more complicated analysis.
if a motor was underwater 24 years in a deep anaerobic zone, no corrosion could occur. Corrosion requires O2.
"pickling" as Trouty described would only work with unagitated well water, and only for a short time. Why wait for a mechanic?, pull the plugs spray as much WD40 in the cylinders and intake as possible, remove the carb, drain and flush the lower unit. Spray WD every where you can. I would hate to drop off a submerged outboard knowing that the mechanic will get to it "right away".
It was taken into a marine dealer - who flushed the carbs - dried it out etc - and put fresh fuel in it - it started first pull on the original spark plugs and has run like a champ for years afterwards!
QUOTE] Trouty, tell me again why you are sold on 4 strokers?
At what point is a boat a lost cause?
