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I haven't had much luck finding a good strong permanent glue for window gaskets. I'm rebuilding a spare windshield in my Topaz. I have new seals from TaylorMade. I would like to try a glue material before I try melting the seams.
a. call taylor made and ask for a recommendation.
b. do you really need to seal that seam. looks very tight and i know mine (oem taylor made) aren't "sealed"
c. get an automotive gasket glue. good luck, ron
If you let the top piece overlap the bottom piece (the opposite of the photo), it's much less apt to leak because water will just run over the seam not into it.
It appears that you are trying to bond the seam together in a continuous strip of rubber, not simply glue them together. What you need is a chemical vulcanizer rather than just an adhesive.
Go to the tire repair section of the nearest auto parts store, where they sell tire patching and plugging kits. You can buy a tube of vulcanizer for $5-6. Test it on 2 scrap pieces of the weather stripping. It is very important that the bonding surfaces are clean and dry.
__________________ I'm not a real Captain, just a victim of my wife's imagination....
'87 Bertram 33' Sportfisher ORCA II Heritage Redfish 12' yak
That looks like the exact weatherstrip that is on my 23 Seacraft Tsunami.American Marine made the windshields for them,and recommended bedding the glass in with silicone and leaving the weatherstrip held in place on its own with no adhesive.
I replaced all the weatherstrip as they recommended,and have not had a single leak,even after torrential downpours and taking water over the bow on many occasions.
As mentioned,it would be better to have the top piece of weatherstrip overlap the bottom piece.
a. call taylor made and ask for a recommendation.
b. do you really need to seal that seam. looks very tight and i know mine (oem taylor made) aren't "sealed"
c. get an automotive gasket glue. good luck, ron
TaylorMade recommended I melt the seams together. That is what they do. I wanted to explore a glue type of solution first but I might go with what they recommend as they are the pros.
If you let the top piece overlap the bottom piece (the opposite of the photo), it's much less apt to leak because water will just run over the seam not into it.
I want it to be as original as possible. That tip might work though.
It appears that you are trying to bond the seam together in a continuous strip of rubber, not simply glue them together. What you need is a chemical vulcanizer rather than just an adhesive.
Go to the tire repair section of the nearest auto parts store, where they sell tire patching and plugging kits. You can buy a tube of vulcanizer for $5-6. Test it on 2 scrap pieces of the weather stripping. It is very important that the bonding surfaces are clean and dry.
You got it right. I want to bond the piece together. The rubber will shrink as it ages and I want it to stay in shape and in place for as long as possible.
A vulcanizing compound might be the right one. I'll be heading to Pep-boys this weekend. You think like I do. I'll be testing all of the compounds and use the best one.
That looks like the exact weatherstrip that is on my 23 Seacraft Tsunami.American Marine made the windshields for them,and recommended bedding the glass in with silicone and leaving the weatherstrip held in place on its own with no adhesive.
I replaced all the weatherstrip as they recommended,and have not had a single leak,even after torrential downpours and taking water over the bow on many occasions.
As mentioned,it would be better to have the top piece of weatherstrip overlap the bottom piece.
It is interesting they recommend no adhesive for the seal. This windshield is bedded with a thick tarry like substance and the seals had a lot of silicone under them. You couldn't see the silicone from the outside but it was loaded under the seals with it. I think this might have been a patch job because the one on the boat does not appear to have the silicone on it. I plan to use sikaflex on the inside to seal it just like you did with your windshield. It's nice to hear from someone else who resealed a windshield.
That overlap can easily be corrected (including the jagged cut)
1) I wouldn't use an adhesive between the gasket and the glass.
2) Correct the improper orientation of the overlap.
3) It's hard to beat 3M's "yellow death" as a weatherstriping adhesive (it also comes in black).
I replaced almost all of the glass in my Seacraft,and bedded it all to the aluminum frame with silicone.It It's secured very well by the silicone,and would require a hell of a lot of force to remove the glass.
The weatherstrip isn't(in my case )the main means of holding the glass in.Its primary purpose is to ensure that any water doesn't remain in the aluminum channel.It also helps make a watertight seal,and give it a finished look.
I'd be careful using a polyurethane like Sika or 3M on the glass.they are pretty permanent adhesives,and would be extremely difficult to remove,if you ever had to replace a piece of glass.
Best glue for rubber window gasket? 
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