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Well if Sea Ray does it I guess we better too. I just sent a note down to the shop floor requesting the change. We thought it was ok to drain the most amount of water possible into the bilge. I guess it would make more sense not to let that happen.
Maybe we can get a few pointers on how to build this one too.
Hopefully that will be the end of my sarcastic rebuttals.
Seriously,
Our shop is always open and we're happy to show you how we do things at every stage of construction. We have nothing to hide and it's what helps us sell our boats. I'll post construction photos along the way too. I'll also reply to any questions or comments you might have. Who knows maybe there's some good ideas out there. If you're ever on I-75 passing through Ft. Myers, hop off at exit 143 and we'll give you a tour.
BTW there's a PVC board behind the coaming pads to cover up the access holes.
Don't you think it would be a good idea to close up all those access holes?
I understand that the bolsters will cover the holes for aesthetics, but how do you keep water from running down behind the bolsters, through the holes and into the hull?
Quote:
Originally Posted by spearnreel
Yeah Nor-Tech, why? SeaRay boats surely do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by salesmanship
Well if Sea Ray does it I guess we better too. I just sent a note down to the shop floor requesting the change. We thought it was ok to drain the most amount of water possible into the bilge. I guess it would make more sense not to let that happen.
Maybe we can get a few pointers on how to build this one too.
Hopefully that will be the end of my sarcastic rebuttals.
I'm pretty sure Spearnreel's post was just a sarcastic response to Tobnpr's post (a SeaRay owner)...Still a good laugh though...
__________________ Boatless again...
Key Largo 186CC/Yam 90 - Sold
Pro-Line 20 Walk/175 EFI Merc - Sold
Classic Aquasport 200WA/Evindrude 225 - Sold
Hydra-Sports 2000CC Vector/Honda BF225 - Sold
Hydra-Sports 2200WA Vector/Yam F115's - Sold
Hydra-Sports 2400CC Vector/150 HPDI's - Sold
Dusky 256/Honda BF150's - Sold
Twin Vee 26CC/140 Zukes - Sold
31' Fountain CC Open/Opti 250XS's - Sold
Boat owners- and builders alike- post their pics here expecting everyone to "ooohhh" and "ahhhh"... heaven forbid you put forth a negative opinion.
You're the one that posted the pics, "Salesmanship".
Perhaps a more professional repsonse would have been "We do not feel it's necessary to seal the cutouts between the hull and inner liner BECAUSE...
Instead, you resort to the THT mindset...
Perhaps you should look at how Mike Carrigan presents himself on this board as a manufacturer's representative.
And if you don't think it's necessary to seal a million holes between the hull and inner liner, maybe you do have a thing to learn- from Sea Ray or any other boat builder.
Oh, and btw, got some pics of any 30 year old Nor-Techs?
topnbr. I made it clear I was being sarcastic as what I thought spearnreel was doing too. Sorry if my warped sense of humor offended you.
My real response was the second half of the reply. As I said I will post any pictures and you're free to comment.
I can't show you any 30 year old boats but maybe a few that are 20. That's when Nor-Tech started in the US.
Oh and if I didn't make it clear. We do make a concerted effort to keep as much water as we can out of the bilge. All of the holes get sealed.
Prop. We like two pieces, fewer molds less joints. However anybody can have a valid argument to build one over the other.
Thanks. That's all I was asking... I was just envisioning fish blood and wash down water running behind the bolsters and into the bilge. I'm not so sure about the "sarcasm" from the other posters... I dared to raise a couple of questions about a YF build some months back and got my azz handed to me, not that I really care...
I do have one more question- if you don't mind...
You guys are in the business of building boats to withstand the toughest conditions a hull can be subjected to- offshore racing. I know (obviously) from this thread that you still glass the hull/deck joint.
Now the question...
I know that glassing that joint goes back a long way- back to the days when fiberglass putty and screws were used to bond that joint and it was required to add that strength so the hull wouldn't decide to come apart...
Given that we now have modern high-strength adhesives- like Plexus Methacrylates- is glassing the joint from the inside an absolute necessity for the strength needed, or do you do it as additional "insurance" just to be sure that the boat can take absolutely any use (or "abuse"!).
A plexus joint is definately an eaisier way to go but we still think three layers of glass is still the strongest method.
I have seen plexus joints fail and the decks were peeled back. I won't mention the brand.
We've never had a failure and I guess we'll stick with it.