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Old 02-01-2010, 08:01 AM
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Default Heating a Frozen Bolt

when applying heat to the bolt to remove it, do you heat the surrounding area where the bolt is in, or do you apply the flame to the bolt itself?
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Old 02-01-2010, 08:04 AM
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ideally you want to heat/expand the area around it
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Old 02-01-2010, 08:16 AM
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Be sure you use the proper fuel for your torch. Propane wont create enough heat and you will be there forever. Use MAPP gas it comes in the yellow bottle.
I would heat the bolt itself. but the surronding area is fine too.
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Old 02-01-2010, 08:25 AM
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whats the bolt in?
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Old 02-01-2010, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
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whats the bolt in?
lower unit
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Old 02-01-2010, 09:30 AM
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marine grade never seize for me......ALWAYS
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Old 02-01-2010, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PelagicHunter View Post
when applying heat to the bolt to remove it, do you heat the surrounding area where the bolt is in, or do you apply the flame to the bolt itself?
For a seized bolt

Do not under any circumstances heat the bolt itself, you'll weaken it and it may shear. If the bolt is into aluminium there may be corrosion binding the bolt. Gently heating the surrounding area may well free it. If you can't turn the bolt with moderate force with a standard socket use a hexagon head socket, less chance of turning the edges off the bolt.
If this doesn't work you can try heating the surrounding area until it's hand hot and try WD40 or similar. The heat will further thin the penetrating oil and may help it to soak in.
Another option is to beg or borrow a nut gun, they do both air and electric ( the sort of thing used in garages on wheel nuts). It's very important to use a hex socket with these. They are very effective...

For a seized nut

If you think there's danger of damaging paint or other kit nearby it might be worth investing in a nut splitter, providing the nut's not too big. These are cheap grease operated tools that you tighten with a spanner. The grease gets pressurised as you turn the end with the spanner and pushes out a wedge, splitting the nut. This depends on accessability. If you've got to use heat see if anyone has oxy / acetylene gear. Use the welding, not cutting torch, with a small nozzle and directly heat the nut itself. This normally works a treat. Replace nut and bolt with marine grade stainless, then you won't have the problem again.
Hope this helps

Last edited by stuhaynes; 02-01-2010 at 12:09 PM. Reason: missing text
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Old 02-01-2010, 11:58 AM
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Heat around it and tap on it with a metal hammer
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Old 02-01-2010, 01:03 PM
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Heat around it and tap on it with a metal hammer
... after letting it soak with PB Blaster overnight.
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Old 02-01-2010, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wetneck View Post
ideally you want to heat/expand the area around it
That's it.

Heat the area around the bolt and the hole becomes larger. If you heat the bolt, it expands and becomes tighter in the hole.
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Old 02-01-2010, 02:23 PM
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If you are trying to remove a bolt that attaches the lower unit to the mid unit, generally, it isn't the threads that are seized in the mid unit that cause the problem, it's salt buildup on the shoulder of the bolt....the pros use vibration to loosen them....an air chisel with a blunt bit on the head of the bolt while someone else gently tries to turn the bolt....how long since the lower unit has been off?
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Old 02-01-2010, 02:45 PM
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... after letting it soak with PB Blaster overnight.
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Old 02-01-2010, 03:00 PM
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I have a routine...PB, heat, cool, tap tap tap, PB, heat, try to loosen bolt, repeat as necessary. I've also removed many frozen bolts by tightening a bit first. Tapping often is the trick.
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Old 02-01-2010, 03:46 PM
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the problem is that its the bolt/ screw that hold the gear oil, and its starting to strip, so i only have a few attempts to get it right...my plan was to 1. heat the surrounding area 2. us an impact drill to use that w/ a slotted flat head to try to get the screw out, if that strips it too much my back up plan was to cut a slot in the head at a cross sectional to the original slot and use that w/ the impact drill to get it out once i heat it again.

hows that sound
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Old 02-01-2010, 03:56 PM
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I have heated the surrounding area then cold sprayed the bolt and finally got it out. My theory was to expand the surroundings and shrink the bolt, anyway it worked that time.
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Old 02-01-2010, 04:07 PM
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Don't use an impact gun on a slotted screw, it will bounce it out and definitely ruin the slot, heat and PB and lightly tap it.
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Old 02-01-2010, 05:12 PM
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i think you want to use a impact driver, ive used one many times on motorcycles it has diff ends screw driver or allen head and you smack it with a hammer and it turns slight amount to snap screw etec loose. im assuming its the oil plug your trying to get out if so it should work.
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Old 02-01-2010, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwidman View Post
That's it.

Heat the area around the bolt and the hole becomes larger. If you heat the bolt, it expands and becomes tighter in the hole.
That is very true. But expansion and contraction of a boat can be controlled. While a bolt is in the threads it is very difficult to heat the bolt in the area where needed to be removed. You need to be quick about it. Borrow a temp gun and heat the aluminum a quickly as safely possible so as not to transfer the heat to the bolt. Tap the head of the bolt a few times and apply rotational pressure while your heating the casting. Aluminum melts at around 1275 degrees depending on the alloy. Not to hot. Maybe 700 should do the trick. I sometimes preheat aluminum castings prior to welding and use helium as a purging gas for TIG welding. Good luck.
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Old 02-01-2010, 07:23 PM
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There's a fairly new product called CRC Freeze-Off that's sold in most parts stores. I've got many friends in the auto repair business and any of these guys that have tried it, rave about it. I bought a can but haven't tried it yet.
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Old 02-01-2010, 08:40 PM
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I do a lot of broken and frozen bolt removal. If oil is still in the case you will not be able to get the case hot enough to do any good. The trick is to heat the screw with an acetylene torch using a small welding tip. High heat for a short period of time ( 2 to 3 seconds) right on the screw then let it cool. What you are trying to do is cause the screw to expand in the hole crushing the corrosion and gasket. Let it cool before trying to remove. The CRC freeze off is used to cool the screw to shrink it. When working with aluminum you have to be quick, aluminum absorbs and conducts heat very fast.
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