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THE ANSWER When you can't tie off anchor rode to unstrain the windlass>Solutions?
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THE ANSWER When you can't tie off anchor rode to unstrain the windlass>Solutions?
ORIGINAL QUESTION----I have the good fortune to own a fine big beamy 35' downeaster. Heavy boat, displacemnet hull. I have the bad fortune of having a bad back. I have a windlass on the boat (Profish 1000) and it has broken down 3x in 3 years. Why? I think you know. I can't always go up and tie off the rode too unstrain the windlass. It's ironic that the time when you most need to tie off the rode (bad conditions) is the time you are least able to get to the foredeck.
Other than the anchor ball system. Has anyone seen an anchoring system that allows somehow for the rode to be tied off somewhere else or has anyine found a windlass that will withstand the rigors of the strain on the line?
Looking for any recommended solutions.
Thanks
Ray
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THE ANSWER
Since you were all so helpfull to my inquiries, I feel it only right to report back to the members.
Well crew.....I took the advice of the readership. I wrote to Maxwell, Lewmar, Good and Ideal. I am writing to report back the results. When I wrote, I told all of the manufacturers that I am neither able (bad back ) nor willing (over 5' seas and 40 degree water) to travel to the bow to tie up a rode. Here's a synopsis of their replies:
Lewmar - Use a model with a worm gear and it may last you a few years before they wear and fail but the Profish models are not built for this.
Maxwell - all of their windlasses must be tied off
Ideal - the are not aware of any windlass manufacturer that will meet that requirement
Good- after a phone call from their owner, he said "no problem" their windlasses are designed to withstand anchoring and not being tied off. He suggested the F850C for my boat in the Bright Anodized Allmag (best lasting finish) and that's what I am about to buy. Best of all it's a FREEFALL
why cant you just go up there pull some slack out cleat it off then take it out of the teeth? They do make windlasses that actually spool the line on a big reel that would probably handle the strain but they are big and ugly.
__________________ 2008 2530 Parker w/twin 225 Yamis - Sold
2006 38 TE Fountain Triple 275 Verados - Sold
2004 32 Sea Vee Twin 250xs
On my boat I can access the foredeck through a hatch in the V berth if I choose to. Same on my previous boat. Is this something you could do on your boat? Would that help?
Could you install an additional cleat in a place where you could grab the rode with a boat hook and fasten it to the new cleat from a position you can easily reach?
Taking the pressure off your windless while on the hook and during retrivel is a must.
I use a bridle ((2) 3/4" lines to a chain hook) to my all chain/Rocna set up, just attach the hook and let out another 10-15'. Mounting a well backed cleat off to the side of your windless would make the tie off easy.
Most people (including myself) will not venture to the bow in 6' seas on this boat to tie off the rode, especially in 45 degree water. You go in, and your gone with the tide. Besides did I mention my bad back? The boat is big and the hatch too far back (and elevated) to grab the rode and tie it off. I have actually thought of putting the windlass inside the cabin and tieing it off down there somehow but that doesn't seem feasable and comes with it's own set of technical problems. I did think about getting a windlass for a 50-60' boat but I'm not sure that would work either.
On our previous boat a 50 footer we had a lewmar that had a special handle that cranked on top to tighten down a clutch, we always cleated it off but I suppose you didn't have to because you could crank it down so that it wouldn't move.
Most people (including myself) will not venture to the bow in 6' seas on this boat to tie off the rode, especially in 45 degree water. .............................
You have already found out that your current plan comes with its own set of problems. You might try contacting the manufacturer of the windlass for suggestions. They might have an upgrade or might have some other solution.
Thinking far outside the box - turn the windlass around facing aft. Rig a pulley so the rode comes back near the hatch, then turns forward through the pulley. Install a cleat so you can cleat the rode from the hatch.
That's a good possibility. I have indeed written to Lewmar and Maxwell. Both have suggested using a windlass with a worm gear which should last longer than the one I had. I get a sense that Maxwell is a much better made windlass, but the customer service I have had from Lewmar was nothing short of sensational.
My dealer replaced my windlass last year and upgraded me to the Lewmar v700. So far so good and it has some great features. For one it has a clutch that will lessen the impact on the motor. The clutch will slip as opposed to putting all the stress on the motor. There is also a lever that will stop the clutch from slipping that works like a ratchet.
Look at the high end chain stoppers that allow the chain to come in, but "ratchet" down preventing it from going out. Call Ideal, they will help you out.. the best service and advice and quality in the business and 100% USA. Look at the "Accessories" tab on their site, then call them on Monday and they will talk you through some solutions. You could rig a trip line to the pawl back to your helm, for instance.
Get yourself a " good " windlass and use 8 pialt braided rope , it will never tangle or hang up . The windlass is total free fall and it is built so you do not have to ever cleat it off. I think i paid about 1800.00 for mine , these windlass's are built like tanks .they are supported on both ends with bearings, are no larger than a regular windlass.
What Doublehook said...
Under normal conditions (NOT storm) their manual clearly states that cleating off the rode isn't necessary. I've owned one for three years, never cleated off the rode, and the windlass has never failed to operate as it should.
This is all VERY good info. I will follow up on some of these on Monday.
Meanwhile, I got the boat shrinkwrapped today (aft of the wheelhouse) just as the snow began to fall here on Long Island.
REPORTING back When you can't tie off anchor rode to unstrain the windlass
Since you were all so helpfull to my inquiries, I feel it only right to report back to the members.
Well crew.....I took the advice of the readership. I wrote to Maxwell, Lewmar, Good and Ideal. I am writing to report back the results. When I wrote, I told all of the manufacturers that I am neither able (bad back ) nor willing (over 5' seas and 40 degree water) to travel to the bow to tie up a rode. Here's a synopsis of their replies:
Lewmar - Use a model with a worm gear and it may last you a few years before they wear and fail but the Profish models are not built for this.
Maxwell - all of their windlasses must be tied off
Ideal - the are not aware of any windlass manufacturer that will meet that requirement
Good- after a phone call from their owner, he said "no problem" their windlasses are designed to withstand anchoring and not being tied off. He suggested the F850C for my boat in the Bright Anodized Allmag (best lasting finish) and that's what I am about to buy. Best of all it's a FREEFALL
THE ANSWER When you can't tie off anchor rode to unstrain the windlass>Solutions? 
