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A little gas will not hurt the diesel engine but I would not make a habit of it. Remember, this is not the old days. Ethanol will just destroy all of the rubber components and if you have a fiberglass fuel tank the engine will be toast in short order as the Ethanol eats away at the tank. I would not touch it.
Transmission fluid will work but I would not use too much. It may make certain seals swell too much.
Transmission fluid is an ultra high detergent oil. In the old days, it was used to help free up sticky lifters in gas engines. Add a quart to the oil and let it get hot then drain it. I know a body shop that has tow trucks and he runs a quart in all of his engines all of the time. Claims when they break the engines down to rebuild them in the trucks they are as clean as a whistle.
It will help clean the injectors. Take a look at Marvel Mystery oil, not sure if it is much different than Tranny fluid.
I add a quart of ATF to my truck about every third oil change. 250k miles I did a compression test two weeks ago to try and find another issue(ended up being a crank sensor) I have 182-185lbs on all 8 cylinders, no wear no tear just clean. I also recently had a lifter rapping on the Lumina I bought for commuting put a qaurt of ATF in the oil and the lifter stopped rapping literally within 30 seconds I was amazed..Heres another use for ATF someone sent me.For those of us who do our own restoration work, here's some interesting comparisons on penetrating oils sent by a friend.Happy knuckle busting ! Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*None ..................... 516 poundsWD-40 .................. 238 poundsPB Blaster ............. 214 poundsLiquid Wrench ..... 127 poundsKano Kroil ............ 106 poundsATF-Acetone mix....53 poundsThe ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
there was a guy there who ran straigh tranny fluid in his 7.3L ford. Yes I said straight. Runs fine
Why not just run Veggie-Oil in it?
I run a 50/50 mix of used motor oil and diesel fuel in my older f350. Some times when money is tight, I run 100% used motor oil, used transmission fluid, or any other used oil I can get my hands on.... The engine runs the same and some times much cooler. All systems are bone stock.
Location: Boat,Town Cove, Cape Cod. Live south of Boston.
Posts: 815
Quote:
Originally Posted by IZZY
I don't do it in my trucks but in the winter I split 50 /50 oil to kerosene deliveries for my oil burner in my house so it doesn't jell.
My first house had a outdoor oil tank and filter, the first winter during the cold freezes the filter kept jelling up any my service tech told me to put a gallon of automotive antifreeze in with every fill up. Seemed to work cause it never jelled up again that winter, the following summer I converted to gas.
I add a quart of ATF to my truck about every third oil change. 250k miles I did a compression test two weeks ago to try and find another issue(ended up being a crank sensor) I have 182-185lbs on all 8 cylinders, no wear no tear just clean. I also recently had a lifter rapping on the Lumina I bought for commuting put a qaurt of ATF in the oil and the lifter stopped rapping literally within 30 seconds I was amazed..Heres another use for ATF someone sent me.For those of us who do our own restoration work, here's some interesting comparisons on penetrating oils sent by a friend.Happy knuckle busting ! Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*None ..................... 516 poundsWD-40 .................. 238 poundsPB Blaster ............. 214 poundsLiquid Wrench ..... 127 poundsKano Kroil ............ 106 poundsATF-Acetone mix....53 poundsThe ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
Don't do it. Gas act as a cleaning agent in injectors, fuel pumps, all of which depends on diesel fuel for the parts to be lubed. Also with the high pressure and high temps required for firing in the cly. you could be looking for trouble. (I have 20 plus years as a diesel mech. in the Navy, with 15 more on fire equip. at an airport.) There are ways to keep your tank and fuel clean, I would advise you to use them.
Don't do it. Gas act as a cleaning agent in injectors, fuel pumps, all of which depends on diesel fuel for the parts to be lubed. Also with the high pressure and high temps required for firing in the cly. you could be looking for trouble. (I have 20 plus years as a diesel mech. in the Navy, with 15 more on fire equip. at an airport.) There are ways to keep your tank and fuel clean, I would advise you to use them.
Again, I have absolutely no plans to do this. I just thought it was an example og questionable advice given on a web forum and wanted to see what folks here thought of it. Fun reading, though.
I remember when they used a spray can of ether in the air intake to get diesels started in winter, but that was before turbo's.
The 10% is way too much I think, the guy who said he put 100 gallons of gas in 8000 gallons, sounds like a lot but it is only 1.25%, a long way from 10%.
Lady's Travels: From Minnesota on Lake Superior to Nassau, to Charleston, SC., to Key West, Fl. & Return.
Charleston to Windsor, Ontario Canada
Now exploring the Great Lakes...
Funny about the transmission fluid through the engine. My father is an old school diesel mechanic (spent 60 of is 76 years working on diesels and continues to help me maintain my Yanmar) and he told me that pouring some Dextron III in your fuel filter helps clean the injectors and provide lubricity to the fuel pump. He said its a good thing to do twice a year or so especially with todays lower sulpher diesel fuel. As I said in my earlier post, I just add some Stanadyne every other fillup.
On a side note, we used to run synthetic ATF in the crank case of a 1400cc roller bearing motorcycle race motor that made about 265hp natually aspirated. The ATF was good for about 5hp on the top end and helped with the wet clutch. Motor was spotless and never had a lube related issue.
PS. If youown a sport bike and read this, dont try it. Your plain bearing crank wont last long.
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Location: On the "Back Fourty"; just 1/2 mile outside Poe-Dunk, Iowa; turn west at Coot's on Deer Lick Trace.
Posts: 28
Hello from the farmer in Iowa..............just thought I'd comment.
Close to 20 rears ago I ran turbo-charged diesel agricultural/farm tractors manufactured by Deutz from Germany.
Instead of running a blend of #1 (essentially kerosene) and #2 diesel to get them to start and run in cold weather; the manufacturer recommended adding gasoline to the #2 diesel.
The owners manual had a table listing amount of gas to add dependent upon expected temps. (And yes it was in liters and Celcius.)
Can't remember the mixing ratios but I can tell you they started and ran better that way than most of my current ones do...........
Deutz did give a large warning in the manual stating not add more than recommended; unless of course you wanted the engine to make a very large BANG.
A bit off topic.... but here's my experience (and i cant believe Im admitting that this happened in the first place). In 2005 I accidentally filled my 2004 Cummins Turbo Diesel Dodge 2500 with regular unleaded (I was on my damn cell phone and wasnt paying attention). It was empty at the time, so I drove off in my diesel truck filled with gasoline then got on the highway, and went 4 miles before it sputtered and quit.
Instantly I knew what I had done. I called a large diesel mechanic shop (think big rigs etc..) and asked "what now?" His reply was to simply tow the truck home and get all that gas out of it, refill it with diesel and DRIVE ON! I asked how this could not have cause damage and he said I'd have 0 problems, so long as I got the gas out within a day, or else it would damage seals.
I put another 140,000 miles on that truck with no problems.
I've always heard the much higher compression of a diesel, if ran with gas, will result in destroyed engine
in the old non electronic diesels you can piss in the tank and it will probably burn it. the newer electronic diesels are adifferent animal compleatly,mess around with the fuel too much and it will get exspensive real quick!
there was a guy there who ran straigh tranny fluid in his 7.3L ford. Yes I said straight. Runs fine
Since transmission fluid costs as much for a quart as diesel fuel cost for a gallon, why would anybody in their right mind use transmission fluid in place of diesel fuel?
And what a PITA it would be to open all those transmission fluid containers.
I run the mulitfuel diesel engines in my M35A2'a (Deuce and half's). They are very high compression; but have a fuel density compensator. If you run straight gas in them you need to add a couple gallons of motor oil to lube the fuel pump. Remember this engine is early 1960's technology. These are gigantic (heavy) 6 cylinder engines putting out something like 130HP turbocharged. Some folks run used ATF fluid all the time. They get it cheap. Same goes for used motor oil or veggie oil. My feeling is diesel is not that expensive and I don't want to run used oils and F something up.
Modern diesel engines can handle some Number 1 (kerosene) in the winter. Forget gas in newer diesels and gas with ethanol are you kidding.
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