repack rudder stuffing box? - The Hull Truth

rpmunroe · 06-21-2004, 03:00 PM

Can this be done with the vessel in the water? can all the required materials be gathered in advance and then perform this while floating? Or will water come in, in an ungodly flow and skuttle my vessel right. away? Would you have your boat pulled prior to doing this?
thanks

Bullshipper · 06-21-2004, 03:07 PM

Inmost cases the box is below the water line.
If the box is below the waterline, water will come in.
Check it with a tape measure.

rpmunroe · 06-21-2004, 03:11 PM

yes these boxes are below the water line

Bullshipper · 06-21-2004, 03:20 PM

The stuffing boxes I have had could be tightened and or lubricated while the boat is in the water. If you have a slow drip, this may correct the problem, or at least buy you some time untill you want to pull the boat to perform the repair.
Most people will not tackle this job in the water, as there could be a defect in the shaft, housing, etc, that could require more time to repair, and its hard to pull her if her own power is not functioning.
Would suggest that you leave your battery charger on board to compenstate bilge pump draw in the meantime.

Mud Runner · 06-21-2004, 04:18 PM

We did the drive shafts of a ChrisCraft while in the water.* Yes water will come in but it wasn't anything that jeopardized the boat.* We also just added packing( no removal of old packing)*and re-tightened the gland nut and got great results.* If you're going to remove the old packing totally, you'll have to get a tool for it and work relatively fast.* It's your call on whether or not you want to go that route.* *

Yellow Fin · 06-21-2004, 04:34 PM

Stuffing boxes do not need to be repacked very often. More times than not, if it is not a major leak, by backing off of the first nut, and tightening down on the second and then tighening up the first nut you will stop the leak. Be careful though, they need to drip a small amt to keep the shaft cool. If you tighten until the leak is gone when the shaft is not turning you should be about right.

CB Haws · 06-21-2004, 04:56 PM

Holy Jesus some of you take the cake. The question was rudder stuffing boxes. You can tighten those suckers until you can't turn the wheel if you could ever get them that tight. How in the he doubble ll are you going to creat enough heat by driving the boat to cause a melt down of the rudder stuffing box? Tight no leaks!! Change them in the water. First cut a link or two to get ready and make sure your bildge pump works. If it doesn't you better pull you boat and put it on dry land for the rest of the season. Because you are sooooo stupid for not having a working bildge pump. Remove the old packing. The water helps to flush the old packing out by the way. If you took out three pieces put three back in. Duh The same goes for your stuffing boxes. Only these should leak underway and a drip or two every few secouds while sitting in the slip is not all bad.

Bullshipper · 06-21-2004, 05:14 PM

CBH,
Ya, pack more new gland material over the old leaving a cut in the middle, don't break the bronze nut that could have been on it for years, don't inspect the shaft for corrosion, maybe drop some pieces around the shaft into the mud in the marina, lubricate the gland in the presence of water, work against the water pressure in a small area without the help of a friend on the other side of the hull, sleep very soundly 40 miles offshore, then when you take 20 minutes to pull the boat in a month, do it all over again because you really like to do repeated headstands in your bilge.

Doug in Bermuda · 06-21-2004, 07:13 PM

Thankyou CB. Rudder stuffing box is no big deal. Did mine this year though I was out of water. Make sure all materials & tools needed are handy. Check that bilge pump & go at it. Take the rudder arm off so that you can slide the stuffing box right off. It is a whole lot easier to pick the old gland material out with the box in your hand

Nobody likes to see water coming into the boat but this small amount os nothing to worry about.