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Old 11-06-2009, 11:21 AM
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Default run motor out of water?

I'm attemting to change the oil on my Yamaha 115 4 stroke......the manual states that after changing the oil to run the motor for a few minutes........can I do this by attaching a hose to that "connect" you use to flush the engine after using?......put the lower housing into somekind of tub filled w/ water? screw the manual and wait till I'm on water?
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Old 11-06-2009, 11:30 AM
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Don't run it on that "connect" (usually at bottom of powerhead to port).

Use earmuffs or a tub is actually better.

Check around the filter for leaks and then shut it off and recheck the oil level.
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Old 11-06-2009, 11:30 AM
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I always used the rabbit ears placed around the impeller on the bottom of the lower unit.
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Old 11-06-2009, 08:40 PM
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Wait until you put the boat in the water. Run it for a minute or so and check the oil level. Add if needed. Never run the engine without water going through the impeller.
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Old 11-07-2009, 01:25 AM
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Never run the motor on the onboard flush attachment. It does not supply enough cooling water to a running engine. Just use a good set of muffs attached to the water intakes at the bottom of the lower unit.
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Old 11-07-2009, 05:41 AM
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I have Suzuki's and could never get enough water via the ear muffs. I always drunk the lower unit in a tub filled to the cavitation plate when running the engines out of the ocean. At least with Suzuki's, you CANNOT run the engine with water through the rinse ports - it has to be on muffs or submerged in the water.
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Old 11-07-2009, 06:16 AM
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Actually, I would run the motors before I changed the oil to heat the oil up...

I have a thread on here...for when I did my F115's. Also go to the vendors forums, find SIM (Shipyard Island Marine) and you will find several oil change threads. I used a big Rubbermade tub to run mine to heat that oil up

I also used a funnel with a piece of hose and drained them into a 5 gal bucket. I drained both, and when I removed the filters they were dry...

Make sure you don't overtighten the drain plug. Use a torque wrench..

Also, now is a good time to remove the prop, check for any line twisted around the shaft, and lube the splines with marine grease. Lube the tilt tube while in there...

If doing waterpumps, Andy at SIM sells kits complete with everything to properly change them out...

Good luck!
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Old 11-07-2009, 07:41 AM
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I would use a set of muffs.....BUTTTTT......

Can anyone show me a thread where a water pump was damaged by running a motor on the hard with flush port hooked up for 1 MINUTE, just to get the oil circulated?

I expect to get flamed, but I think impellers are stronger than that...
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Old 11-07-2009, 08:20 AM
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Actually if you read the "Need help with your Yamaha" thread where a Yam tech was anwsering questions he stated that with rabbit ears and a second hose to the flush port will add extra water for larger outboards that like to normally overheat on just the rabbit ears alone. My motor overheats with just the rabbit ears alone. I havent tried it yet with both hooked up but it makes sense to me.
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Old 11-07-2009, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glen E View Post
I would use a set of muffs.....BUTTTTT......

Can anyone show me a thread where a water pump was damaged by running a motor on the hard with flush port hooked up for 1 MINUTE, just to get the oil circulated?

I expect to get flamed, but I think impellers are stronger than that...
You're may be right but I run mine a lot longer than 1 minute to get the oil hot before draining. Like you, I have never read or heard of anyone doing damage while running on the flush port. Come to think of it, I don't really know of anyone who actually does it. All I do know is that Yamaha has a caution in bold print in my manual telling me not to do it and they mention the possibility of severe damage from overheating. I also have a Yam service bulletin regarding winterization where they caution not to run on the flush attachment because it does not supply sufficient cooling water to a running motor. Whether the insufficient water flow would effect the impeller or the power head I don't know. Since they are warranting the motor for six years, I pretty much do what they recommend.
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Old 11-07-2009, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glen E View Post
I would use a set of muffs.....BUTTTTT......

Can anyone show me a thread where a water pump was damaged by running a motor on the hard with flush port hooked up for 1 MINUTE, just to get the oil circulated?

I expect to get flamed, but I think impellers are stronger than that...

depends on the condition of the impeller. if the boat is run in shallow water a lot or hasnt had a new impeller in 5 years then you might burn it.

what i dont understand is why bother to run the engine for a few minutes after you change the oil? what good is this? the oil will just drain back down to the oil pan anyways.
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Old 11-07-2009, 10:17 AM
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I never run my motor in the water, that is just silly. Outboards were made to be run in the driveway only
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Old 11-07-2009, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pastaman1234 View Post
Actually if you read the "Need help with your Yamaha" thread where a Yam tech was anwsering questions he stated that with rabbit ears and a second hose to the flush port will add extra water for larger outboards that like to normally overheat on just the rabbit ears alone. My motor overheats with just the rabbit ears alone. I havent tried it yet with both hooked up but it makes sense to me.
That does make sense. My Yamaha F250 runs fine on just the muffs. I get a normal stream from the telltale and I moniter the temp gauge and it runs in the normal range. Like the OP, I had a Yam F115 on my last boat and it also ran normally on muffs. Depends on the motor I guess.
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Old 11-07-2009, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by miike View Post
depends on the condition of the impeller. if the boat is run in shallow water a lot or hasnt had a new impeller in 5 years then you might burn it.

what i dont understand is why bother to run the engine for a few minutes after you change the oil? what good is this? the oil will just drain back down to the oil pan anyways.
When changing oil, Yamaha recommends to run the motor up to normal operating temperature to heat up the old oil and allow a few minutes for the oil to drain back into the pan before draining it out. In addition, running the motor on muffs privides a more thorough flush than when on the flush attachment because the thermostats will open. The only way I can do that in my driveway is on muffs or in a tub. Muffs are easier. Besides, I only do it twice a year, winterization and re-commissioning, so it's no big deal.
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Last edited by jack14; 11-07-2009 at 10:51 AM.
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Old 11-07-2009, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pastaman1234 View Post
Actually if you read the "Need help with your Yamaha" thread where a Yam tech was anwsering questions he stated that with rabbit ears and a second hose to the flush port will add extra water for larger outboards that like to normally overheat on just the rabbit ears alone. My motor overheats with just the rabbit ears alone. I havent tried it yet with both hooked up but it makes sense to me.
If you're not already doing so, try removing the plastic water intake screens before using the muffs. It will help improve the flow of water. They come off in a minute.
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Old 11-07-2009, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glen E View Post
I would use a set of muffs.....BUTTTTT......

Can anyone show me a thread where a water pump was damaged by running a motor on the hard with flush port hooked up for 1 MINUTE, just to get the oil circulated?

I expect to get flamed, but I think impellers are stronger than that...
I run both yam07' 150 4 strks in my driveway on the flush out for around 8mins after every ocean trip. Been doing it for years and never had a problem. Dealer where I bought the boat told me to run them to get the stat to open. Before that I had a 99' 200hp yam 2stk and did the same.
Maybe I am just lucky....
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Old 11-07-2009, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
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Come to think of it, I don't really know of anyone who actually does it.
I have never run my motor on the ears. Only on the flush port. Countless times. Once for about an hour as I was trying to diagnose a problem. I changed the water pump last year at about 400 hours and it was in virtually new condition.

I started doing this before I realized that I wasn't supposed to do it. But I kept doing it since it was obvious it was causing no harm. I have very strong water pressure from my hose. Many will call me crazy. But it has worked for me on two different Yamahas for the past 12 years.
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Old 11-07-2009, 11:59 AM
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I have never run my motor on the ears. Only on the flush port. Countless times. Once for about an hour as I was trying to diagnose a problem. I changed the water pump last year at about 400 hours and it was in virtually new condition.

I started doing this before I realized that I wasn't supposed to do it. But I kept doing it since it was obvious it was causing no harm. I have very strong water pressure from my hose. Many will call me crazy. But it has worked for me on two different Yamahas for the past 12 years.
Thought I was the only crazy one.
Can someone please show me where it says you cant?
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Old 11-07-2009, 12:42 PM
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I have never run my motor on the ears. Only on the flush port. Countless times. Once for about an hour as I was trying to diagnose a problem. I changed the water pump last year at about 400 hours and it was in virtually new condition.

I started doing this before I realized that I wasn't supposed to do it. But I kept doing it since it was obvious it was causing no harm. I have very strong water pressure from my hose. Many will call me crazy. But it has worked for me on two different Yamahas for the past 12 years.
400 hours on the pump and it was in good shape? That's interesting. I only have 185 on mine and was considering changing it this winter. Maybe I should wait. What about t-stats? Do you run in saltwater?
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Old 11-07-2009, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
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When changing oil, Yamaha recommends to run the motor up to normal operating temperature to heat up the old oil and allow a few minutes for the oil to drain back into the pan before draining it out. In addition, running the motor on muffs privides a more thorough flush than when on the flush attachment because the thermostats will open. The only way I can do that in my driveway is on muffs or in a tub. Muffs are easier. Besides, I only do it twice a year, winterization and re-commissioning, so it's no big deal.

ya i understand it says that in the manual, but quite frankly i think it is a waste of time.

you only need to run the engine to get the oil out if you are pumping it out instead of pulling the oil drain plug. just pull the plug, go do something for 5 min, readjust the waste oil bucket and then come back in 10 min and you will have yourself an oil change.

i do certainly recommend you flush your engine for the end of the season if there is saltwater in it. for this i would do the following. sometimes my 4str 250 suzuki would over heat, so i got a Y-adapter (w/valves) for the hose and ran another smaller hose to the flush port off of the main hose to the ear muffs. open both valves and turn on the water full blast. then start the motor and shut off the valve going to the flush port to get more to the impeller. if you fill the flush circuit up to the top it helps it flow better once your engine is pumping.

but who cares if you run the engine after an oil change? it doesnt make any difference!
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